StuP

£140 from toyota, fitting kit included, painting and fitting extra unless you do it yourself, hope that helps :D

theres 2 types tho, the one i've mentioned is the trd one (or Toyota Sport Kit rear valance as i've been told by Toyota)

the TTE one which is more readily available on ebay in fibregalss might be the one you have seen, i dunno how much the genuine ones are or how easily they are to buy

Have you got a pic of this type as I've only seen the TTE one which is £235 from a dealer so if this one is pleasing on the eye I'll go for it instead

Washers

fogs

Anyone got one of these going spare or want to part with? Can only find fibreglass ones for sale and don't want to pay dealer prices for new. PM me with a pic and price if you have anything.

Cheers

Stu

i have done it :D

yes use a dremel

with a diamond cutting blade

cut very slowly as running fast will build up heat and melt the plastic

do not force it !

reseal with clear silicone

here is the finished article

That looks amazing mate, just booking some leave to do mine as it could take a while waiting for paint to dry etc

Having fitted a TTE bumper without the headlight washers recently i decided it was time to get the washer switch to do something once again. Rather than fit the original washers which can be seen through the grille i decided to get a pair of the colour coded fan screen washer jets for the 2003 IS200 from a Lexus dealer and fit them discretely in the top of the bumper (pics to follow as its raining at the moment!)which seemed to be more reliable and neat IMO. Whilst doing this I noticed that the fog lights have a similar assembly to the headlights (2 parts joined with thermal glue) and so ten minutes at 80 in the oven and i had the lenses removed, and an hour later blackened inside like my headlights and reassembled. I'll get some pics posted when the sun comes out but in my opinion both mods are worth doing (washers only if you havent fitted the original ones that pop out of the bumper) and only take a morning/afternoon to do.

1. Remove bumper

2. Remove foglights from bumper by removing the two screws on the inner side of the foglight that go through the mounting hole in the bumper and unclip the wires going into the back

3. Preheat oven to 80 degrees

4. Remove bulbs from back of foglights (standard halogen twist mount)

5. Put foglights in oven for ten minutes

6. Whilst foglights in oven drill holes in top of bumper for the washers to clip into (requires 10mm drill bit and a small square file)

7. Remove foglights from oven and gently separate lenses from the rest of the unit using a flat bladed screwdriver (the lens and reflector may come out togeteher)

8. Remove Reflector from inside the lens and roughen using scouring pad

9. Use a plastic primer on the reflector to provide a good key for the paint

10. Paint the reflector using your chosen colour

11. Whilst these are drying fit the washer jets into the holes in the bumper and attach new lengths of hose to each as they are much smaller than the existing washers and connect using a t-piece to the headlight washer pump on the bottom of the screenwash reservoir (i made my own but essentially you need a 10mm to 2x4mm t-piece adaptor)

12. Once dry reassemble the foglights as well as you can and put back in the oven for ten minutes (this will soften the glue again and you can then assemble properly)

13. Refit bulbs and then foglights back into the bumper and then bumper back on the car.

It took me just over two hours with the constant threat of rain, hence i didn't have time to get stage by stage pics for doing this. There are threads on here for removing the bumper and fitting halos in headlights so my advice is to use their guides for more in depth guidance on the difficult bits with this as an overview if you like the idea of the mod.

hi all need some advice!!!!!!!

got given to me this week to high back bucket leather seats, dont know the make of them but in reasonable condition could not say no when they were offered to me!!! just thinking of prob changing my half leather seats in my lex for these possibly,

now is it easy to swap the sub frames of my lex and to put them on my new ones cos i believe the holes under the new ones have a universal fit for the sub s to go under them, do u recknon this will be easy to do without too much problem has anyone else done this on here ....

also what pitfulls do u think i will have doin this, and do u think its worth the bother or should i just sell them and give them up as a bad idea if there is goin to be more problems doin it, any advice or guidance or poss instructions on how the best way to do this would be gratefully apreciated, im planning on keeping the lex for a while longer, thanks for reading guys and i, lookin forward to the replies.............

Hi, I tried this a couple of months back and gave up. The problems you will face are as follows:

Universal sub frames are generally flat with horizontal screw holes and the seat mounting holes on an IS are angled so most who have done this have had an engineering firm build custom subframes

The seats have airbags and it can be difficult to get hold of the plug in modules that make the rest of the airbag circuit happy without the OEM seats

Although they may look nicer than the half leather ones what you have to consider is the loss of the electronically controlled adjustment and the heated seats which will leave two switches on the dash useless. My opinion now is that its better to just get the seats reupholstered to your own style as its not as expensive as you may think and you get exactly what you want whilst retaining the comfort. Other members have had this done to good effect.

So possibly using a batter with better delivery such as a leisure type of the same voltage may improve performance when thirsty accessories are being used? Slightly off topic but I'm just trying to get me head around the reasons why an electronic supercharger could not match the performance of a mechanical one and it only seems to be the ability to transfer energy (be it kinetic from the engine or electrical from the battery) into pressure and minimising the negative effects on engine performance. So if the Battery was man enough there is no reason why a well constructed electronic supercharger couldn't replicate the pressure generated by its mechanical alternatives without turbo lag and engine load performance reductions so in essence the only issue is excessively draining the Battery.

After looking into Superchargers and turbochargers and the way they work the main difference seems to be where they draw their power:

Conventional supercharger- Coupled to engine via pulley and belt to drive compressor turbine

Turbocharger- Coupled to exhaust manifold and powered byexhaust gas flow

Electronic supercharger- powered from car Battery

Now essentially they all generate mass airflow and increase air pressure therefore forcing more air into the engine which the ECU compensates for by adding more fuel to maintain the mix and therefore increasing power.

Turbochargers suffer from heat issues due to the hot exhaust gasses passing through and need circulation of cold oil and an intercooler for the pressurised air to keep cold air flowing into the engine.

Conventional superchargers draw power from the engine so there is a slight performance trade off but seem to be more robust and have reduced heat issues compared to turbochargers.

Electronic superchargers suffer neither from heat or draw power from the engine (work alternator harder to maintain the battery) and as operate in the same way as the others I'm just wondering why they get such bad press as surely one of these done properly will cost less and has the potential to be as efficient as the other options without the heat issues?

The clearance between the wheel and caliper is not massive so may cause problems that way also. Paint yours and get the lexus caliper decals for extra effect and it will look better and cause you less grief in the long run.

Not sure on what N means. Faulty gauge or valve possibly. You should try 35psi. WIM recommend it. I found it makes a bit of difference to the way the car feels on the road as well as helping with tyre wear.

Does the 35psi apply to all wheels on the Is200 or just the OEM 17" ones?

Oh and XE03 on the dials. Can you PM me if you're still doing these and I'll sort the payment out

Thanks alot once again guys :D

Can you put me down for a Sport set for a manual 2001 Is200

Anyone know where i can get these as Dave from Prolex says they no longer stock them

Here are some basic wheel tyre combinations that can fit, if you have any more post them below.

PCD = 114.3mm Offset = 50mm

Standard Rim f/r = 17"x7"

Standard Tyre f/r = 215/45-17

(A -40mm drop is possible with this combination)

18" upgrade f/r =18"x7 1/2"

18" upgrade f/r =225/40/18

18" upgrade f/r =18"x8"

18" upgrade f/r =225/40/18

18" upgrade r =18"x8.5"

18" upgrade r =255/35-18

(A -30mm drop is possible with these combinations, however minor arch rolling is needed with the 255/35 combination)

19" upgrade f/r =19"x8"

19" upgrade f/r = 235/35-19

(A -25mm drop is possible with these combinations)

With 19's don't run any rim bigger than 8" on the front as it will hit the strut.19's will rub on the front inner arch at full lock, but this can be solved by cutting or bending away some of the plastic trim.

Of course for the nutter out there even a -60mm drop is possible with 19's.....................you know who you are!!!!:P

18" x 8" Offset 43 225/40/18 40mm drop fits without spacers or arch rolling in my recent experience

I have an TRD engine start/stop button for an Toyota Auris. Just wondered if anyone would now how to wire this up to the IS200?

If its like most good quality generic engine start buttons it should have an interface box which wires to the ignition circuit with a set of instructions explaining how to connect each wire. If its just a basic pushbutton with little else I'd avoid trying to do this without specialist electronics experience as it may seem simple enough but a lot can go wrong if done incorrectly.

Cheers, I've spoken to him and taken loads of measurements so went ahead and ordered them. They look good in the pics and should make my Red Is stand out a bit.

Did you get these in the end mate as I was looking at possibly getting a set myself but wanted to make doubly sure of them fitting. The measurements seem to work out ok. If you have have you got any pics yet?

Here's a description of what is meant by offset which may help a bit ...

http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=11821

I've got 8x18 wheels on my IS200 with 40mm offset and 225/40 tyres with no problems.

Lowered a bit on coilovers but not down mega low trying to make tyres disappear into arches.

TG

Thanks for that, I've worked out with the larger rims and smaller tyres the new wheels will only be 8.5mm bigger in diameter but it was the width i was worried most about and as yours are the same offset i think they be fine and not cause any problems. The calculator said i'm ok on the inner but need extra 8mm outer which i have so wont need the arches rolled i guess

The colour coded front pieces are screwed into the rest of the assembly from the back so you will have to remove the front bumper or bend a philips screwdriver and pull the washer out to its full extent (very fiddly). I have just removed mine and am willing to sell on if you need some more. They are painted red (3P0) but could be resprayed. Send me a PM if you're interested.

Sorry to be a pain, I've no idea about offsets etc from the set of data in this post and would be guessing, so just want to check to make sure. Can someone in the know tell me if the following will fit on my 2001 Is200 that has been lowered 40mm?

Alloys

Cheers in anticipation

Having been told there is a four week waiting list for my wheels to be refurbed and powdercoated I thought I'd take my frustration out on the centre caps so they'd match the new colour alloys. This is the result (rained whilst I was getting the camera so a bit less shiny):

Centre cap

It was fairly easy to do as the emblems can be prized off using a sharp knife or small screwdriver making it easy to lightly sand, prime and paint both parts of the cap in different colours. Once dry a small amount of glue on the underside of the emblem was all that was needed to fit the two parts back as they were. Looking forward to seeing how they look on the refurbed wheels when they're finally done.

I hope to do this myself. So it was quite easy?? As it seems that the emblem has a locating lug which is glued in. I hope to paint the cap in metallic silver and the emblem in blue to match the colour of my car.

Surprisingly easy as the emblems are easy to separate and can be glued back on after painting. the chrome part needs a fine sand before priming to get the paint to key in properly but that was the hardest part :-)

have you got the part number by any chance?

Sadly not but i believe its the type fitted from 2003 onwards. If i can find the receipt later i'll post the part number

Care to write up a how to for the workshop area Stu?

I'm still a bit nervous about anything mechanical :D

Here goes then (no pics as I've already done it!)

The washer jets are held in with an integral clip front (windscreen side) and rear (engine side). To remove use a small flat bladed screwdriver under the front between the bonnet and the jet and push toward the jet then lever upward to raise the front.

Repeat this at the back whilst ensuring the front does not return to its original position. The jet will pop out with a tube attached to the rear.

Pull the jet towards the windscreen stretching the tube slightly and grip the tube as it emerges from the bonnet with small pliers. (don't let go or you'll be forraging around in the hole to get the tube back out).

The jet is just a push fit to the tube so pull/twist it off and replace it with the new fan jet.

Let go of the tube with the pliers and lower the new jet into the hole and push in to fit.

Repeat this on the other side and hey presto :D

Having been told there is a four week waiting list for my wheels to be refurbed and powdercoated I thought I'd take my frustration out on the centre caps so they'd match the new colour alloys. This is the result (rained whilst I was getting the camera so a bit less shiny):

Centre cap

It was fairly easy to do as the emblems can be prized off using a sharp knife or small screwdriver making it easy to lightly sand, prime and paint both parts of the cap in different colours. Once dry a small amount of glue on the underside of the emblem was all that was needed to fit the two parts back as they were. Looking forward to seeing how they look on the refurbed wheels when they're finally done.