rob192

Car got stolen the other day, returned to me in a sorry state, as a result I need:

Bonnet inc. grille

Front bumper

Nearside wing

Nearside light(s)

Radiator inc. any associated piping towards the front nearside of the car

Front cross beam/bumper support bar

Fan & any associated pumps/pipework?

Car's a 3.0l TT Aristo. I don't care about colour, won't take me long to have any of it painted.

Cheers,

Rob.

As title, if there's more than one it's the one in the boot on the floor on the right I'm after, cash waiting.

Anyone breaking? Prefer East London for collection (long shot) or be prepared to post please.

Cheers,

Rob.

Ohhh yeah, there's loads of electrical gems on this car!

Couldn't work out how to delete this, the solution won't be any help to anyone else, someone had added a switch in under the dash that controlled the sidelights for some reason.. Took it out, replaced with a length of wire and hey presto I've got sidelights on the normal switch.

As title, my front sidelights and my rear main lights seem to have given up the ghost.

Checked the bulbs, all fine. Checked any fuses I could find relating to bulbs, again, all fine.

Brake lights and main headlights work ok. God this car is going to drive me to despair.

Any ideas?

Cheers,

Rob.

I didn't personally but I asked the garage to and I believe him when he says he did!

I'll be picking up a fresh battery tonight (kept the receipt from Halfords for a change), hopefully this'll be the end of it.

Hi rob,

Just a quick one mate but I had a electrical garage to try and find the fault, and my local garage , and a diagnostic check and none of them could find a fault.

As I said before do it yourself with engine running and get someone to turn the steering wheel to full lock both ways ,with a/c on full, and all lights and radio on

you look at belt drive under bonnet and the belt will drive around normal but when under strain on full lock the belt will slow down and maybe even stop, if this is the case its the pully this is how I found that my crank pully was faulty. atfer all mate it will only take a few min to check it youself.

You cant check on normal tick over and just looking at belt you have to do as above.

Hope you get it fixed

Don

I'll take your word for it, I will personally check it when I get the car back, I needed a new alternator anyway I guess as the inside was all burnt lol. Thanks for all your help people!

I didn't personally but I asked the garage to and I believe him when he says he did!

I'll be picking up a fresh Battery tonight (kept the receipt from Halfords for a change), hopefully this'll be the end of it.

Right, I've had the alternator replaced and it's running fine, however, the previous owner also said this.

So I'm forced to ask, what causes an alternator to fail consistently? I'm still scared to drive the thing because although it works at the moment it could be anything as far as I can see that can cause it to fail!

hi rob,

i had a problem like this, i bought new battery,alternater serviced,new pully tentioner,it was the crank pully it had split apart on the rubber insert.

do a check on the following, take car for a run at night with lights on radio on a/c on, and see if battery light comes on when you are doing a full lock if it dos thats the problem.

don

Thanks for the suggestion. How much was that to repair?

hi rob

check my topic back in feb 6 under gs300 all prices was on there but i think the crank pully was 126 fitted by my local garage not lexus.

don

Excellent, not too bad then.

I'll have a check tonight and report back with the results, I reckon this could be it though!

hi rob,

i had a problem like this, i bought new battery,alternater serviced,new pully tentioner,it was the crank pully it had split apart on the rubber insert.

do a check on the following, take car for a run at night with lights on radio on a/c on, and see if battery light comes on when you are doing a full lock if it dos thats the problem.

don

Thanks for the suggestion. How much was that to repair?

Auto electrician time then?

You should test for charging at 1500 rpm minimum with heated rear window and headlights off. You should see 13.5 - 14 volts otherwise the charging circuit needs attention.

Yep, 11.8v. Guess my charging circuit needs attention!

check the footwell and engine bay fuse boxes for corrosion and loose power cables

I ran through all the fuses the other day, I'll check the connections to the boxes themselves. Thanks.

Any more for any more? Was hoping this would be a common fault :(

Also, just remembered I drove it last night and the TRC Off and ABS lights were also flashing up along with the previous 3 if it makes any difference to anyone. Am I being thick or have I read somewhere about a dodgy boot loom causing weird problems?

Got a new Battery today, drove it around for a while seemed ok, parked up left it running and got 11.8v at the Battery on the multimeter.. Any suggestions?

Evening,

Hope it's not frowned upon to ask for some technical advice in a first post but here we go!

Just got myself a 92 GS300, it's got a few electrical glitches that are making it a bit of a nightmare at the moment. The previous owner told me that it had had problems with taking a charge, it's had 2 new alternators (not under my ownership, one of which is receipted) and a new voltage regulator. It seems to drive fine when it has a full Battery, it doesn't run out quickly it runs out quite slowly but the problem is worse at night I'm assuming because of the drain caused by the lights being on. I can drive it for a couple of hours during the day before it won't start again. It's also had things like grounds etc gone over by an auto electrician (apparantly) and they were ok although I may check those again.

Occasionaly when I start the car I get three warning lights, oil something or other, the Battery warning light and one other on the right. They also pop up from time to time when driving and all three stay on when the car's on the way out. I can also make them come up by booting it pretty hard.

Now this morning I got the multimeter out, it was getting around 12.8v on idle and about 13.6v on a small rev. A friend of mine also bought a (huge archaeic!) Battery tester round which confirmed the Battery despite having been run down a few times recently wasn't knackered. I drove the car up the road to get some petrol, I pulled in and noticed what I though was steam coming from the bonnet, pop the bonnet and low and behold the alternator was smoking! Needless to say I shoved the car out the petrol station sharpish but that can't be good. It killed the Battery, a friend bought down a spare and I drove it back to my house (2 mins) and the alternator was fine!! Argghhh!

Also, not quite as terminal as that, the door locks click all the time whilst driving but only over a certain speed (probably about 10mph I reckon).

Any body encountered similar problems and could offer any advice? It would be much appreciated!!

Thanks,

Rob.