SpeedView

You didn't design the Land-Rover then? Steel, duralim, zinc/cad plating, stainless, brass, bronze, water, salt & fertiliser... Fantastic combo

Excellent! Details of how to obtain the goodies sent via PM, looking forward to the tutorial! B)

One more available in exchange for the late model tutorial; still looking for a pair of volunteers for the earlier models. :)

Blue! I'll grab some of these >> B)

I'd love to have Swedish instructions. I'll have absolutely no idea what you're saying (so keep it clean please!) but it'll look fantastic. No, seriously, I think it'd look the part with that backlighting. :)

I don't have any colour other than green. It would be possible for you to replace them if you wanted to, but I probably wouldn't unless it was a show car. Here's some more info on why its green:

Colour: The human eye is more sensitive to green light than any other colour, which is why it is used in military head up displays and the SpeedView head up display. You can read all about human colour perception here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_perception

Short version of the above article: the human eye is about twice as good at seeing green than any other colour, because of its biology. Orange isn't too bad, but red/blue aren't great at all. The bluer the light the more it bends when it hits interfaces/travels through materials so the blue looks 'sharp' where red 'glows' more. Green is a nice inbetween colour for a clean look that isn't too hard on the eyes either.

Oil industry? Metals treatment?

Yep, good call on HIC. Fine on the dirty lumps of pig iron but strictly I probably shouldn't have used it on those through-bolts. No using it on any bearing surfaces either!

Sorry, slow typist!

Sorry, I meant i posted a while ago on LOC regarding HUD's, not specifically to your posts.

Not at all, was me apologising to IanS200. B)

Aha! This is a contraption designed to explode your shed.

Its called "electrocleaning" and is used to remove paint, grease, muck, and rust from iron/steel parts.

Take a bucket of water, add washing soda. (a salt, to make it conductive) Put an electrode in there (stainless works well), and dip your part in. Take a DC power supply, connect the electrode to +, and the part to -. It'll split the water molecules, creating oxygen bubbles on the electrode and hydrogen on the part. The bubbles are created at the surface of the metal, and as they form/pop/move away, they lift the rust/grease/paint away. Leave it in overnight, and jetwash it in the morning, and you're left with a much cleaner, rust-free part that needs very little work for painting. (quick wire brush and scrub with hot soapy water)

eg - before and after of that part

The welder is a transformer, and creates low voltage AC. Inside the tupperware box is the rectifier pack from an alternator. The "heater" is used on cold blow mode to keep the welder cool when running continuously! Around the inside of the bin there's a sheet of stainless.

You can use a 12V Battery and a box for the MX5, but Jaguar rear suspension is quite chunky!

Ok, and the blowing up the shed bit? Remember school chemistry? No? Ok - this is oxygne and hydrogen:

The foamy scum on the top of that bin is the perfect mix of oxygen/hydrogen to explode. Pop into the shed for a quick ciggy and you WILL blow all the windows out. Don't mess with it before you've read up on your O-Levels again and familiarised yourself with what can/will happen.

I first read about it being used to restore cannons found under the ocean, and figured it would be handy for de-rusting that Land-Rover. It works even better if you follow up with a phosphoric acid dip. (milkstone remover from a farmer's merchant) but again, don't mess with acid unless you know what you're doing. What they sell at the farmer's merchants is properly dangerous, and needs to be diluted 1:4 (acid to water, slwoly, and wearing glvoes/goggles - never put water in the acid).

Hey, get back into the GS section! :P

Nope, absolutely interested in trialling one in a GS (or both, if the facelift has different interior/electronics?) and very much like the look of your tutorials. What would you like to know? :)

Hi folks,

I've started a company to sell SpeedView Head up Displays (HUDs). These little gadgets project your speed onto the windscreen so that you can see your speed and see where you’re going at the same time, and I'd like you to have some for peanuts.

I'm looking for two volunteers for each model (enthusiasts, gurus, stupendous badasses) to give it a whirl on a few flavours of Lexus, in exchange for getting it really, really, cheap - £40 for a Head up Display. You know you want one: bling and something to fiddle with on Boxing Day... ;-)

Dead handy if you’ve fitted a mario-kart sized steering wheel like I have on my MX5, stopping 9 points turning into 12, or just as a bling toy! It has a few more tricks up its sleeve too - see a quick video here:

http://www.speedview.co/gallery/video

Here's the deal: I have the "normal" instructions but I would like specific instructions or a "how to" for each vehicle. Something like these:

http://www.speedview.co/forum/showthread.php?tid=2

I'll sell you a unit for £60 including post (already £10 off RRP), then refund you £20 when you upload the instructions to the forum. You'll need to be a little bit handy: You'll need to find three wires. Earth, ignition live, vehicle speed signal (VSS). Earth and ignition live are easy enough. Easiest place to get vehicle speed signal is usually behind the radio (if it adjusts its volume with the speedo) or instrument panel. I don't have the wiring diagram for any Lexuses so you'll have to know how to find those - but otherwise installation is pretty straightforward.

Anybody interested in being the first? Or just have questions? You can catch me in here, by PM, or on info@speedview.co - I'm all ears :-)

For your troubles, a couple of photos of my mobile chicane and the sensible grown up totally practical version...

If you'd like to know who on earth would do such things, or more about the company, click here:

http://www.speedview.co/about

Last but by no means least - many thanks to Steve for supporting new businesses; admin really is a credit to the LOC! B)

Sorry, slow typist! I'm starting with IS, GS, and LS. (two volunteers for each model, and each generation/time they changed the interior or wiring)

(The less common models to follow, just don't want to spread the product support to thin at first)

Hi folks,

I've started a company to sell SpeedView Head up Displays (HUDs). These little gadgets project your speed onto the windscreen so that you can see your speed and see where you’re going at the same time, and I'd like you to have some for peanuts.

I'm looking for two volunteers for each model (enthusiasts, gurus, stupendous badasses) to give it a whirl on a few flavours of Lexus, in exchange for getting it really, really, cheap - £40 for a Head up Display. You know you want one: bling and something to fiddle with on Boxing Day... ;-)

Dead handy if you’ve fitted a mario-kart sized steering wheel like I have on my MX5, stopping 9 points turning into 12, or just as a bling toy! It has a few more tricks up its sleeve too - see a quick video here:

http://www.speedview.co/gallery/video

Here's the deal: I have the "normal" instructions but I would like specific instructions or a "how to" for each vehicle. Something like these:

http://www.speedview.co/forum/showthread.php?tid=2

I'll sell you a unit for £60 including post (already £10 off RRP), then refund you £20 when you upload the instructions to the forum. You'll need to be a little bit handy: You'll need to find three wires. Earth, ignition live, vehicle speed signal (VSS). Earth and ignition live are easy enough. Easiest place to get vehicle speed signal is usually behind the radio (if it adjusts its volume with the speedo) or instrument panel. I don't have the wiring diagram for any Lexuses so you'll have to know how to find those - but otherwise installation is pretty straightforward.

Anybody interested in being the first? Or just have questions? You can catch me in here, by PM, or on info@speedview.co - I'm all ears :-)

For your troubles, a couple of photos of my mobile chicane and the sensible grown up totally practical version...

If you'd like to know who on earth would do such things, or more about the company, click here:

http://www.speedview.co/about

Last but by no means least - many thanks to Steve for supporting new businesses; admin really is a credit to the LOC! B)

My winter wheels refurbed by them (on the right)

I posted the rims to them (35 pounds for four), then had them fit/balance the tyres (20 pounds for four), and collected when passing through Birmingham. Refurb was 80 pounds for the four and they're in the standard "sparkle silver" colour.

No flippin' air leaks past the rims now, a piece of cake to clean, and no effort.

http://www.citypowdercoating.co.uk/

I wouldn't bother DIYing them - city powder coaters in Birmingham will strip, shotblast, blend any minor kerbing, and powdercoat for 20 quid a wheel...

The finish isn't perfect by any means, but better than you can hope to DIY.

Buy a spare set, refurb 'em, swap your tyres over, then refurb yours and re-sell?

Afternoon all,

I'm Marko from a new company - SpeedView Head up Displays - and I'm on the LOC to pick your technical gurus' brains and do a deal in exchange (see the technical sections) but to show that I bleed EP90 when cut have a few shots of my toys:

MX5 (sensible daily)

<<<spot the gadget

MXJ8 (Jaguar X308 Phaeton; 4 litres; 4 doors; no roof; 200 kg of additional steelwork to keep it together; still needs hitting with some 18s and the lowering stick...) We *almost* bought an LS400 but the lines didn't work quite so well topless (bit of a high shoulderline and fat bum)

Land-Rover ("twinky" as its known; Rover 220 Coupe Turbo engine with the boost set to 'many')

If you'd like to know who on earth would do such a thing, or more about the company, click here... :D

http://www.speedview.co/about