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clipperman

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Posts posted by clipperman

  1. Apologies for the late response to your replies, was out of action for a few days.

    I've decided to take the risk and purchase the unit, as the garage "believe" that the connectors look OK - the supplier sent a photo.

    Will let you know how I get on once the unit is receive and fitted.

    Just for info the unit (second hand) is costing £30 + postage & VAT.

    Thanks for your responses

  2. Hi,

    Got a bit of a dilemma on replacing the airbag control unit ( under the centre console) for my 1995 GS300.

    Local Garage say's it's returning an error code and needs replacement, but I'm having difficulty finding the correct part on the second user parts side - what I need is 89170-30060, but all I could initially find was 89170-30161, which won't fit (wrong connectors).

    I have managed to locate a unit with a very similar part no. 89170-30070 and to avoid yet more expense purchasing this on spec and paying for garage fitting time, I had hoped that someone out there might have had similar experience and could advise me

    Here's hoping!

  3. The radio doesn't have the code set/enabled by default. I would install the headunit and if it asks for a code, worry about it then. If it doesn't, jobs a good un.

    (if the headunit displays "SEC" when turned on, it has a code set)

    Hi Tigerfish,

    Took your advice, and got lucky (for once in my life) - no code present, so unit worked without a problem.

    Although it seems a "messy" and complicated process, it was relatively easy to accomplish - thanks again for your response.

    Regards

    Ian

  4. Hi,

    I've managed to acquire a 2nd hand radio from a breaker, I intended to replace my existing radio as I have a lot of interference building up on reception over the past year or so.

    I've seen the "posts" on removal, so I know how to tackle this, what worries me is the code - I've no idea what the "replacement" radio code is, and no way of obtaining the chassis number of the donor vehicle.

    Does this mean that my only option is a Lexus dealer to re-set the unit, or have any of you "wizards" out there cracked this in another way?

    Thanks

  5. The rear upper wishbones are sold as a single unit, I've not seen any aftermarket ones anywhere for the rear uppers. DO you know what has actually gone? The upper wishbone has two rubber bushes at the inner end, and a ball joint at the outer end. It may be possible to get a rubber bush from something else to fit, but no idea if the ball joint can be replaced seperately. Only sources I can think of off the top of my head are Lexus or breakers yards. I would assume if there are after market ones available, your local motor factor shop will be able to tell. Blueprint make front uppers, not sure about rear uppers though.

  6. Hi

    Anyone know if the ECU can be "swopped" out - got a potential problem with mine.

    I'm looking to replace with a unit of the same year & model (GS 300 Mk1 1995), but aware that in some manufactures they link ECU to the chassis number/type.

    Any guidance gratefully received

  7. Getting the dash out is not too big a job (see my sig for a link to my dash removal tutorial). Not sure to what extent you would need to dismantle the clocks once out as you may be able to get the needle off from the front with the clear cover removed. I've read somewhere that the needle can be repaired by soldering a single strand of wire from one end of the needle to the other to allow the current to flow again (the problem seems to be a broken track running along the back of the needle). Never tried it myself, but worth a shot if you can't track down a replacement working needle. I know there was a full dash for same on ebay recently, but that may have gone by now. Good luck.

    Many thanks this is useful information - I'll take up your suggestion

  8. Getting the dash out is not too big a job (see my sig for a link to my dash removal tutorial). Not sure to what extent you would need to dismantle the clocks once out as you may be able to get the needle off from the front with the clear cover removed. I've read somewhere that the needle can be repaired by soldering a single strand of wire from one end of the needle to the other to allow the current to flow again (the problem seems to be a broken track running along the back of the needle). Never tried it myself, but worth a shot if you can't track down a replacement working needle. I know there was a full dash for same on ebay recently, but that may have gone by now. Good luck.

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