roces777

Hello to all!

I just bought a Lexus Ux250h recently with base package, normal non-heated and non-electric seats, and after a few weeks, I got a very good deal on some nice seats ( full interior) which have electric adjustments and heating.
Having retrofitted heated seats before in 2 different lexus Is's (plug&play), I was almost sure that that wiring harness were there in this Ux too. But I had a very unpleasant surprise. There are not. Not even a + wire for the electric motors. I want to do anything to retrofit these seats, I got the central console buttons which had the wiring and work, but there is nothing coming to the seats.
If someone already did this or has more experience about this subject, please offer me some tips.

I tried to play wit the Lexus wiring diagrams a little and figure things out, but not being a car mechanic, it will take me some hours or days to understand things. Anyone with more experience can give me some shortcuts to understand the diagrams better?
I also found online a floor wiring harness coming of a model which had electric-heated seats, but it is pretty expensive and I don't even know if buying them will fix the problem.

Thank you in advance!

5 minutes ago, Brechin Slate said:

Surely not worse than your IS220d??

a lot worse than my old is 220d...

18 hours ago, wharfhouse said:

If you read the manual it explains more. If you want the simulated gears to act more like a "normal" gearbox (so going up and down the sequential gears like a normal gearbox) then you need to be in Sport mode and S (rather than D) on the gear selection for best simulation. In Normal or Eco modes the simulated gears are only really there to hold engine revs such as using higher revs for engine braking on long descents. In Normal and Eco the simulated gears are not programmed to act like "normal" sequential gears but for these more demanding conditions than the e-cvt might do otherwise.

thanks. sadly, after almost one year of owning this car, it has been the most frustrating driving experience i have ever had.

thank you, you are right.

Hello!

I own a Lexus Is 300h and lately almost always I've been using the Sport mode combined with manual shifting and starting to like it too much since it's holding higher revs and making the car more responsive. BUT, the problem is when i am using the Normal mode or Sport without manual shifting, I sometimes downshift (-paddle) to have more power and higher revs, but almost always i feel like i need to downshift 2 times (2 "virtual" gears) or more to get to the optimal revs. Is there a way to RE...program the shifting pattern so that the car will not DESPERATELY pick a very high gear ratio immediately after it gets in motion. For example, the equivalent to a normal gear box, it feels like in the city the car picks the 4,5,or 6th speed which is very frustrating since i only need gear 2 or 3 maximum.

what was the technical fix for this problem offered by the lexus service?

19 minutes ago, Thackeray said:

I would think you should be getting around 6.5 l/100km (44 miles/UKgallon) over the long term. Is there anything that leads you to think it's the battery that's at fault?

Much of the time the battery isn't used very much. Except around town, I would think that the majority of the time the engine drives motor generator 1 (MG1) which produces electricity that drives MG2 (connected to the road wheels), without much input from the battery. In addition, the resistance of MG1 pushes torque from the engine to the road wheels. That being the case, if you're using too much petrol, I'd be inclined to think that the first place you might look is the engine. This is an engine which when it was launched (around 2013) was claimed to be the most efficient production engine at 39.5% efficiency. If you're cruising on motorways and not getting 5.6 l/100km (50 mpg) I'd be inclined to think that the engine is taking in too much fuel rather than the traction battery not having sufficient charge. I'm not sure how much help the battery can give on long-distance cruising at speeds of, say, 110-120 kph.

But I'm no expert. Since you've caught ColinBarber's attention maybe he can make some suggestions. (Or correct what I've said above!)

I'd also be interested to know what the 70% health means. If it means 70% charge, that's well within the normal range of 40-80% charge. If it means something else, it would be interesting to have this clarified.

 

it was an app that connected to an obd interface and you had to hold the acceleration and break pedal for let's say 10-15 minutes, while the Battery was charging, and at the end the app concluded that the Battery life was 70%, maybe based on the time it took to charge or someting else

well i got it a few months ago and not when it was new so i cannot compare. i also replaced the wheels from 17 inch to 18 inch f sport and the fuel consumption has increased a little but not that much

Hello!

I own a is 300h 2017 with a mileage of 150.000km . The mpg is awful, when i drive it the hybrid recommended way - (i know exactly what that is), the best fuel consumption is 7,5l/100 km  combined (city+highway), and when i drive it like a normal car, it can go up to 10l/100km. The toyota official Battery check was OK so my warranty is extended, but I went to a specialized hybrid service that used an app to check my Battery health and it was around 70%. So my question is - is there a way to speed up the Battery going dead so i can benefit from the warranty and replace it as soon as possible?