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ipwn

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Posts posted by ipwn

  1. i stand corrected here but i think the foglights works only with the headlights on - is this how you are trying it?

    I can verify this, my Ls430 53 plate fogs front and rear only work with the main lights on, just tested it.

    As for a fuse, i would guess it is in the rear fuse box, in the boot near side under the carpet, not checked this as yet, going for a looksee now.

    Ok just had a look, no fuse in the boot fuse box, got cold so came indoors, i would have checked the other fuse boxes around the car but i can't get the car indoors where it's warm.

    Just drive the car into the house where you can check in a nice warm environment,other owners apparently do :)

    attachicon.giflexus in house.jpg

    Valet parking at it's very best.

    Dunno why they are protecting those alloys with the wood blocks, they have to be the ugliest alloys on any car, Lexus should be ashamed they used them on a nice car like the SC.

    They're creating a gap between the strap and the body panel, not protecting the alloys.

  2. Looked closely at all 4 compartments.

    3 Interior and 1 under bonnet.

    Under the bonnet there is a fuse for Tail and that was perfectly fine, so I changed it anyway. There is a fuse for the front fog lights but absolutely nothing for the rear fogs

    Completely at a loss now, on top I cant pass the MOT if these aren't working!

    My numberplate lights are LEDs, I am going to change these back to normal at the far fetched attempt this is whats causing the issue. Highly unlikely though.

  3. After doing the starter motor not that long ago I realised that these cars are ridiculously easy to work on ( if you have the correct tool set )


    It was a breeze and took around 4 hours of actual work. Doing it again I could shave off an hour!


    At 100k the belt looked great, the bearing looked acceptable and the waterpump had a leak on the bottom right. Everything factory.



    swuo.jpg



    vmpj.jpg


    Some tips.


    1. Threadlock when back together.

    2. Use bulldog clips to hold down the timing belt when putting it on.

    3. Keep the idler bearing loose on installing the timing belt, helps with room.

    4. Don't be a ***** and buy cheap parts.

    • Like 1
  4. So did you get backache, or did you do it in stages, and how many hours would you say from start to finish?

    I have a ramp in my warehouse. So when I get bored of doing work I pop down and do it.

    If you're new to this budget 6 hours.

    If you're used to this crap, budget 4 hours.

    If I was to do the job again I can have the manifold and starter out in 90 minutes.

  5. I don't know where I stand with this. It's an easy job if you're relatively used to being around an engine bay. There are alot of horror stories with this job if you search around, but I think this is down to people not having decent tools.

    My way was:

    Drain all the coolant from everywhere, 3 cocks that is.

    Remove all the plastic rubbish.

    Take alot of pictures.

    Disconnect all the sensors, all the injectors, Battery etc etc.

    Remove the manifold with a friend.

    Undo wire harness bolts at back

    Remove the flow through tube - replace o-ring

    Remove rear water bypass - replace gaskets

    Now you have loads of room, I just stick my small 1/4 ratchet in the back and undid the starter bolts by hand. No issue whasoever.

    Replace the contacts and clean up the plunger.

    Refit everything.

    Definetly handy tools are:

    Magnet

    Long reach needle nose plies- straight and angled

    Long reach hose clip plies

    Wobbly bits

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