emcclariion

NO, i was coasting to cool my engine, when I had a dodgy rad.

just wanted to clear up that coasting in N with a Auto Box does not kill it, i would not recomened doing it as every user manual suggests you are not in contol.

I just had to double check as I thought I was being thick, so I have googled:

http://www.aveoforum.com/forum/f106/coasting-neutral-automatic-transmission-12109/

http://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/816/can-coasting-in-neutral-damage-an-automatic-transmission

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/any-damage-auto-transmission-when-coasting-neutral-13518.html

Google your self :)

errrm, being in N with the engine running will be turning the gearbox.

Coasting in modern Auto Boxs is not a issue, as long as the engine is running and you are not thrashing the engine when you enable drive.

you need the engine running to make sure the gearbox has oil, modern boxes know what speed you are going and what you reves are using ie WOT, so they will engauge the correct gear, if you are reving the engine the engaugment will be harsh....which may cause problems with the drive train.

saying that I would not recomend doing it unless you have to, needing to cool the engine down.

Right there are two methods, but work is the same.

Yanks cars don't have a pressurised expansion tank, so you can just leave the expansion top pipe not connected its that simple, or like me I took the over flow pipe from the expansion tank cut a small section off and managed to find a pipe which was thick enough to fit the expansion top pipe and thin enough for the rad over flow pipe and just joined them, then removed the inner seal on the radiator cap so water would flow out of the rad overflow, but would still hold pressure.

don't worry about pressure, these radiators don't let the engine get any hotter the 82 degrees

Yes I got the Denzo rad with the same issue, just made a adapter which took the over flow into the top of the expansion tank....it been great not issues.

Guys,

I have bought a Denso Rad from Rock Auto, just some information I have gathered....2001 had some changes with somthing to do with a radiator sensor, but they have a bung if the car does not use it, also the US rads do use a different reservoir which is not pressurised, so you do NOT have the top feed going to the reservoir....

which is no a problem though, I am pretty sure a LS Rad will not fit, as the legs at the bottom of the rad is different.

yeah, every time I haved odered from them they have been very fast and organised.

Oh just one thing, when you order the Denzo brand, they use their new core.

it looks really strange, the top and bottom tanks are the same size but the core is about half a inch thick.

http://denso-europe.com/denso-slashes-size-and-weight-of-radiator-by-40-percent/

Rad in, not issues :)

Update,

the rad arrived first thing this morning, Rock Auto rocks!!!!!!!!!!!!

ordered monday, shiped out monday night arrived first thing friday morning..... faster than local post.

You may or may not know that getting a GS430 Radiator in the UK is just about impossible, well you could get it re- cored, but the car will be of the road for some time.

I did find a place who had GS430 rads, but they wanted £170 plus VAT.

So I ordered one from rock auto, £52 for a band new Denzo rad, plus £ 45 shipping VAT and import duty.

I ordered it on monday and tracker suggests it will be delvered on friday.

Keep a eye on it, these radiators are getting old now, I have just ordered one from Rock auto as the rad is starting to seep at the top join.

hi

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.obd2.elmscantoyota&hl=en_GB

you will need a ELM Bluetooth from eBay

hi,

you open the expansion tank to burp and fill the expansion tank.

thermostat is just 2 bolts where the top rad pipe goes into the engine.

must make sure your new thermostat comes with a new seal as the old one will be buggered

so, I have had an issue with the driver side front going into ABS braking at low speed which has been getting worse and worse and I was about to pull a ABS sensor as it was doing my head in.

so finally I get "VSC OFF ABS VSC" lights, having the APP Torque which as is crap for ABS codes I was stuck, i was about to go a buy a posh code reader when I thought would search google play with this search "ODB2 Toyota", bingo ELMScan Toyota, downloaded the Demo and you can access the ABS ECU.

There where 4 error codes, but they could be old so I purchased the full app cleared the codes, VSC light goes off, back to ABS braking again, two days later light goes on again, checked code LR Speed sensor.....hmmm so why is the front ABS kicking in?

I don't trust the error, but I found a really good thing on the ELMSCAN you can graph the ABS sensors:

I added the two front sensors and drove around and they where perfect no jitters or issues both went up and the same speed.

Did the back two, well at 15 MPH all fine, under that LR was jittering like hell, so it looks like the speed ring is game over, which looks like a drive shaft change.

so the purpose of the post:

ELMSCAN Toyota is a brilliant tool, I cannot recommend it more.

and why the fook does the car engage drivers ABS at the front when the Speed ring is fooked on the LR?

first thing to do is burp the system it is quite easy, but it takes time.

start the car and turn the temp up to full take the res cap of and wait.

you will see the water rise and burp air out after every burp add coolant keep going till no more burps, this can take 20 to 30 mins.

also change the thermostat it is very easy to do, it will take 10 mins.

one more question do all vents blow cold are just or two, if that is the case you have a servo issue?

Steve, I am running them now on my GS 430, no squealing at all and much less brake dust then Mintex, which I thought where crap, but I am on eBay special disks from india/china or south Korea :)

I have used most eBay brands and OEM, Mintex, brembo and I have found EBC ultimax the best all rounder, min brake dust nice feel and good ware rate.

for the back get what ever is the cheapest

may see you about :)

Chaps,

For complete clarity as I have done a lot of research on this, here in Europe we use don't use Denso Sat Navigation so we are different to the States.

So the first disc based system is called Gen CD, this is the one with the smaller size screen, early Gen2 GS 300 and Gen 1 LS400.

Then in 2000 they added the bigger screen and used the DVD, this was GEN 00 this lasted a year or so then they did Gen 01, which is not compatible with Gen 00.

Then it was Gen 2/3 which are compatible.

why am a saying this, if you have a Gen 00 update disks are hard if impossible to find, you can buy new, but it would only be up to 2009, to know you have Gen 00 you disk will NOT have 9 circles of any colour.

Scudney, that is my point Gen 00 is DVD from 2000 to 2001 gen -1 is Cd, which is the confusion.

All,

I have been struggling to get a handle on Lexus Sat nav versions as there is a lot of conflicting advice.

so most forums suggest Gen 1 hard disk version Gen 2/3 which seem to work with the same disk and then the rest, well this is not correct.

hard disk version on the LS400

CD version on the LS400 and GS pre-2000

Gen 00 GS and LS DVD post 2000 till 2001

Gen 01

Gen 02

Gen 03 etc

this is why I cannot find a update on my Sat Nav, I have a GEN 00 so it need a copy of this:

PZ445-L00EU-07 or PZ445-L00EU-09

The PZ445 is just some code, L00 is the version GEN 00 and it is EU not US and the update of 2007 and 2009.

if any one has a copy of the above lets talk :)

I am sure the GS 300 is the same.

I think the GUI has been updated with the update disk

Noby, I believe it does do a firmware upgrade to the Sat nav, but you don't get a new interface, it still does not do post codes, but mrdoofa can confirm as he has the VERY RARE 2001 map update :)