techair

My Lexus is a 2001 and done 162k still runs very smooth, we look after one at the garage I work at that has done over 200k

Any good motor factor should have it eg Euro Car Parts or even Halfords

I have had some problems with condensation myself, and I have treated all the rubber door and boot seals with silicon spray. Spray it onto the rubbers and it makes them expand a bit. Wipe of any excess with a clean cloth.

Well the Lexus made it through the MOT, apart from having to have the offside headlamp adjusted because it was to high.

Had a slight imbalance on the rear brakes but not even close enough to fail.

So next job is back brakes apart, and finish off re-furbishing the wheels.

I didn't take the backs apart, next job. MOT first thing tomorrow!!

Hi

Yes it was, which was part of the reason why I replaced the front pads and make sure nothing was sticking

Sorry if this has been covered by previous posts, but I couldn't find exactly what I was experiencing.

When I first brake, I feel the pedal travel is a bit far, after further use the pedal travel is what I call normal and the brakes feel sharp.

I have replaced the front pads, which whilst I was doing that job I made sure the sliders were free.

I have bled the brakes but, I am not sure if I have bled enough fluid through and still may have air in the system.

I bled the brakes the old fashioned way, with someone pumping the brake pedal for me whilst I opened each bleed nipple starting with near side rear.

What I was wondering is one did I bleed the fluid enough or two should I of used a different method ie pressure bleeding the brakes, or three have I got another problem?

Did this the other day on mine, 14mm spanner and a pry bar required. There is an adjuster near the alternator slacken it off and use the pry bar to put tension on the belt, hold the tension on and tighten adjuster.

Hope this helps.

Hi

Gone with denso iridium tough, these plugs are expensive but good you pay for what you get.

As sad as I am, had another thought that you may have an immobiliser fault, whilst the car will unlock etc the immobiliser won't allow fuel through especially as every thing works on another car.

Just remember what the name of the test kit is for checking injector seals it is a diesel injector leak back test

I think you can do it using a power probe to see if there is a positive to each one, can't remember which wire. You may need to strip back some covering.

If you are un-certain I would get an auto electrician, who will come to you. If you have it stripped it will cut down on his charges.

Also you said it will start with easy start does it continue to run after you stopped spraying?

Just another thought I know you said you have had the injectors tested have you done the spill test? This will show if you are losing pressure

Have you tried un-doing each fuel pipe to each injector one at a time and cracking the engine to see if fuel is getting to the injector, you don't need to undo it all the way this may also get rid of trapped air if there is some. Also get a auto electrician to see if there is an electrical pulse at the electrical plug to each injector. Don't use the pulse test diodes as I have heard they can muck up the ecu

Don't know if this is applicable but is the tank transferring fuel from one half to the other, it maybe a case that there is no fuel in the half that is taken to the engine because the transfer pump is not working but still shows fuel on the gauge?

Hi, Does any body knows what bulbs are required for the heater control dials?

Also how easy is it to get at them, I think it is radio out and go from there.