Tony Burke

I'm not confident that replacing the rear tyres will cure the noise because it starts the instant the fronts hit the rough tarmac, but I will experiment with different pressures and have the alignment looked at.

Linas, I have 17" rims 225 Goodyear fronts and 245 Potenza rears all as new

Yes I ordered the Goodyears through Black Circle. Dropped the car off. Went to collect and they hadn't fitted them because they thought there was a mistake, never changed new tyres before! Expensive experiment but at least I have some decent spares. 

I'll try different pressures, see if that helps. I understand that 17" will be quieter but new tyres AND wheels? Swaps anyone?

Thanks Linas

Well thanks to all for your comments and advice, I guess I'll just have to live with it, can't afford to try a load of different tyres. 

Perhaps Pablo's advice should be heeded, turn the ML up!

I always do lots of research before I buy, so naturally I bought a 2007 IS250 two months ago. Absolutely mint with only 37k on the clock.

All was well apart from road noise, ranging from whisper quite on smooth roads (as on the test drive) to a loud roar on coarse tarmac with tramlining thrown in. Not what I expected from my dream car!

I concluded that the Bridgestone Potenzas were the the culprits, borne out by what I have read up on the subject.

So even though they had 8mm left on them, I replaced the fronts. Tyre reviews recommended Goodyear Efficientgrip Performance so I had two fitted. 

Took it for a drive down the local noisy road, NOT A SCRAP OF DIFFERENCE - AAARGH!! Tramlining may be slightly better but the noise is the same.

My question is, are these cars known for in-car road noise? Mine is noisier than my friends Mondeo. Is there anything I can do?

Still love the car though.

On 9/15/2017 at 0:34 PM, VrmmVrmm said:

This can occur as pointed out by others by inadvertently making contact with the key fob.

However I've another theory and it relates to the main battery in the car either having been disconnected recently...maybe at service time?

Or, a poor intermittent contact has developed on the poles and leads.

In which case clean the poles and tighten the contact leads to same.   Then... and this is the important bit following a battery disconnect or a disconnect due to poor contact. YOU MUST reset the windows individually.

Using the switch for each window on its own door (not all from drivers door) lower each window fully with each switch and then raise each window with each switch on being completely raised hold the switch in the UP position for a few seconds say 5 ...before release (there maybe a beep)  When you've done all that the windows are reset.  

THIS HAS TO BE DONE EVERY TIME THERE IS A BATTERY DISCONNECT.

That's excellent advice Vrm, thank you

On 9/15/2017 at 1:42 PM, Texas said:

"highly recommended"

please expand on this, how so? And got any pics? I personally don't like the look of any screws in number plates myself but when I fitted mine ( with super sticky pads ) I did think about doing away with the black plastic mounting bracket at the front and stick the plate directly onto the bumper but was a bit concerned  About the curvature being placed on the plate!

paul m.

Before and after. No comparison (to my eye). Two self tappers through the letters and a bit of double sided

Thanks guys. I had walked round the car, admiring the front number plate that I had screwed directly to the bumper (highly recommended). Maybe I pushed the button at that time but I would expect to notice the windows opening. Strange.

Neighbour alerted me to the fact that all the windows on my 250IS were open!

Not fully mostly half or nearly half open. Car locked, no damage.

Any ideas anyone?

Thanks

My 2007 IS250 auto doesn't have tilting mirrors, or parking beepers, or memory seats or satnav that's worth a light.

But I don't care, I still LOVE it!!