#Sandy#

Since the symptom is still present I would get it checked out asap to give you an assurance that your vehicle is safe to drive. Why not place the vehicle on full lock left and right check with a torch and check the road springs for breakage.

I am not sure whether the box has the setting for setting the steering. Diagnostics could reset the steering. Before going to the expense why not swap the tyres from nearside to offside and see if the symptoms change. Are the tyres directional and of the same  tread. Check that there is no brake drag on the wheels. With the front lifted it may highlight something in the steering. Best of luck.

I disconnected the Battery first. One side came off easily when the shoes were fully retracted. The opposite side had built up a severe ridge to prevent the disc damaging the shoes. The use of an angle grinder and cold chisel later,the  hub could be assembled without any issue. Best of luck.

It may be a warped disc. Take of the wheel place a flat head screwdriver on the brake carrier turn the disc see if there is any great difference.Before taking the wheel off check for play at the twelve thirty position it may have play in the bearing. Best of luck.

9 hours ago, Is200 broken said:

Hey everyone! 
I started to have my problems few months ago when I was going for a drive and all of a sudden the car started to like shake when idling and it didn’t have any power when I accelerated. So I thought it was a misfire problem or something (I got the P0303 code) and I replaced the spark plugs and oils on the car and went for a test drive. Well it still did the shaking thing and when I shifted from 2 to 3 at around 40kmh it felt like it didn’t have any power or torque. Then I parked the car for like 3 hours and when I came back the car didn’t start it was like the battery was dead (it wasn’t I later checked) and then we tried to start it by pushing and it started but it was like really low idle and then it stopped, then we tried to use jumper cables and it didn’t do anything, it only light up the hazards but they didn’t blink, so then we towed it home and I checked the fuses on the car and the electronic throttle control system fuse was blown and also Starting system, srs system, multiport fuel injection system, and cruise control system fuse, well I went and replaced those and the second I plugged the car battery the electronic throttle control system fuse blew up, and the hazards came back on and didn’t blink. And we’ll here I am right now and I have no idea what to do

I am not conversant with your model. From your first explanation I would check coil packs or crankshaft position sensors. Ensure you have a fully charged Battery and check all earths from Battery to body and engine. Check for wire chaffing from accelerator to throttle control. You could consider checking the wires with a meter engine off for continuity. Best of luck.

Same thing happened to me while I was leaving the dealership last week. The system had been reset.I switched off and restarted all was well. I did try to switch on the radio smartly after the ready light illuminated but it has been working fine since.

I agree withGSLV6. 

Check for play on the wheel bearings.

It may be worthwhile pulling the spark plugs to check their condition keeping them in order will define which cylinder may be suspect.

In respect of the steering I am unaware whether it is electric or hydraulic. If hydraulic check the level and turn full lock left and right a few times to ensure there is no airlocks. Air filters can look ok,if in doubt change it .Best of luck.

I would recommend changing the water pump and auxiliary belt at the same time. It’s a tick in the box for peace of mind.

There are specialists out there, speak to your local garage, they may recommend a reputable firm.

I know I may be going off the subject slightly, when you are trying to source a leak, puff some talcum powder in the area. 
It will highlight the flow of water to help find the source of the leak.

After 20 years of Land Rover with their built in problems I have enjoyed the ownership of an RX in the last two years.  
Good bye Land Rover.

Just wondering if it has been an old or faulty Battery. Why not check the voltage of a replacement against the one fitted. It worked for me. I carry a spare Battery in the car just in case, best of luck.

32 minutes ago, Lex_utor said:

I have keyless entry. My key fob is behaving on me. It was doing strange things a few months back and I changed the battery and it fixed it. Now it's at it again.

The key seems to lose connection with the car and I get a key not found warning on the dash.

I stop the car, get out and I can't lock the doors. Not by pressing the button on the door handle, not by pressing the button on the key FOB. When I exit the car, it beeps 3 times in a similar way it does when you leave with the engine running. But now the engine is off. When I press the door handle button to lock it, it just beeps a long beep and doesn't lock.

Other times it just works as it should. 

Any ideas what could be? Can it be the battery again? I just changed it a few months back. So I would think not.

I must say, I enjoy the car immensely and would have a hard time replacing it, so much I like it and all the boxes it checks. But I have never had a car with so many electronic related glitches, which suprises me, since it's a Lexus. It's my first Lexus though. So maybe this is to be expected, despite the famous reliability reputation.

 

Thanks a lot for your help as always. 🙂 

 

P.S. Is it just me or the traffic in this forum is slowing down quite a bit? Maybe most are indeed selling their IS.

Apart from thinking electrical, could it be a blocked fuel filter, or low pressure in the fuel pump.

After all your checks, you could consider swapping the front tyres around to see if the symptoms change.

With no faults shown you would have thought they may have pulled the spark plugs to give an idea of what was happening in the engine. Sorry for being old school.

24 minutes ago, Carriage Return said:

Goodly members of the forum

A year has passed since I carefully sought out my ride - a beautiful 2018 Black CT200h

In that time I've done 7000 hassle free miles and not a peep from the car. It's been a great year. I think having a CATLOCK fitted in the first week of ownership made me sleep much better with her outside. 

Now, the time for MOT and servicing approaches. I've had a look on the forum for commentary around extended warranty and will consider that approach - but my question is a more prosaic one - should I get a combo service/MOT from the Lexus dealership or have the MOT done elsewhere? Any pitfalls or things I should look out for?

 

Thanks!

 

Lexus for service, independent for mot, that way you have two opinions. Works for me.