Steven Lockey

If it was misfires, you'd 100% have error codes. 

I think its 5.2 if you turn the electronics off and how how to pull off manually extremely well.
You lose a bit with the electronics on as they are a bit overly paranoid and limit the power more
than is needed at lower speeds. 

On 2/28/2024 at 2:26 PM, messi said:

Why not just pull the tpms sensor out, and replace the battery, put it back in and reprogram it? Some people have done that.

Most have integrated batteries so its not possible to easily replace the Battery. 

Detachable batteries would likely become unreliable if places inside a wheel and spun rapidly 😉

On 2/28/2024 at 10:27 AM, steve2006 said:

Lexus/Toyota yes, JLR and Mercedes maybe not 😀

Mercs are great, they are very similar to Lexus.

BMW and others, not so much.

Yep, its the great thing about buying older high-end cars. Cheap and high quality.

Only thing I miss is all the phone gadgets newer cars have.

On 12/19/2023 at 10:33 AM, hprice1099 said:

Morning guys,

hope you’re all well, just need some on advice on the below please. It’s a new cat back system from Tony Banks. Just wondering if £599 is a decent price and will it make the car sound better.

thanks

H

Yeah that's a decent price, around what you'd expect if they do decent work (check warranty length)

But the amount of difference it will make is negligible. I'd not bother spending anywhere near that much unless you need to replace
the exhaust anyway.  I mean I can tell it sounds different if I really concentrate on it, but no where near enough difference to be worth anywhere near that much.

True, but its less of an issue if its going into the water since the coolant fluid tends to turn into a horrible
sludge when combined with oil and high temperatures.

And engines don't like being lubricated by sludge 😉

Might cause some issues with the cats through.

Should see signs of that in the oil if its leaking into the engine.

On my GS which is also pre-facelfit, the parking sensor button is in the drop-down control panel on the far right.
If the parking sensors are active, you'll have a light on the dash.

GS doesn't have soft close doors no.

On 10/19/2023 at 10:32 AM, hazelnut said:

So what is the bleed procedure? I just put 2 litres of genuine Lexus premix coolant in,  started the car for a few minutes and the heater started warming the cabin. stopped the car, add more coolant, repeated this a couple of times, but feels like I could be doing this all day and topping up. I can't see any leaks, but now I discover the car did overheat some days ago.

For someone as inept as me, procedure was call garage, arrange time, drive in, wait 1 hour, drive home warm 😉

I looked at doing it myself but the garage only wanted £70 to do it so by the time I brought everything and messed about wasn't worth it for the £20 or so I'd save.

Coolant system bleed, feet now warm again 🙂

Nevermind, think I found the answer from 8 years ago on this very forum. Also a post I commented on 3 years ago before I had this issue 😉

Looks like it maybe a air-lock in the heating matrix and just needs running with the cap open and refilling with coolant.

Before I start digging about thought I would ask here.

Basically the issue is, when I'm driving slowly (sub-50), I basically get no cabin heat bar the heated seats. Vents just blow cold, even if the temp is set
to maximum (I thought it might be a sensor problem but seems not).

But it works fine if I'm going 50+ and comes on if for example I'm going up a hill or constantly accelerating hard at lower speeds.

Now this all leads to their not being enough engine heat to transmit.... but the thing is, its like 30+ minutes before the heat
kicks in below 50 (and often goes cold again). 

Engine temp on dash rises normally to half-way point before stopping as you'd expect so nothing abnormal there. It's up to the normal
level and sitting there regardless if the air-vents are blowing cool or hot. 

Only sane explanation I can think of is the heat-exchanger isn't connected to the air-vent properly so engine has to be particually hot to
actually transfer heat.

Any other ideas or where to look for the heat exchanger on a GS450h (pre-facelift) would be appreciated.

300wh/mile might be a touch optimistic given Tesla LR only gets 255 and has a significantly better drag coefficient. Personally I'd assume something like 400-500wh/mile and be pleasantly
surprised if you get more.

But if you are happy with that range, sounds like a great project.
Also give it a year or two and you might be able to swap the Battery pack over to a solid state one or semi-solid state, which would significantly increase the range and decrease charge times.

Ah, replacing the ECU explains it. Didn't know it had the ECU replacement built in. That would solve the previous issue and unlock the full 200hp.

Confused about your other statement about the BHP of the electrics? They are only rated to 200BHP together so if he's getting more than
that output, they are running above their rated maximums which would worry me slightly. Wasn't sure if you meant that on a different car
however since you mentioned a BMW. I mean they will work like that for a while but at over 10% over max, will seriously hurt reliability.
 

Quote

Given the torque curve of the GS450h gearbox, it should actually be significantly faster 0-60 than a standard GS450h.

I'd be interested to see how much difference it makes. I'd guess very little if any. Probably a bit faster on the 0-30 then falls away quickly 
after that where the normal 450h is able to apply its extra HP to the road. 

 

Quote

 My motivation is to have a battery electric vehicle that doesn't cost £30k.

Yeah but it's not the same. Even with under the hood fully loaded with batteries, what sort of range are you expecting?
Not done the maths, but I'd be guessing 100-150 miles tops? Even that might be optimistic? Not sure how much Battery
power you can pack in there. 

On 9/13/2023 at 2:34 PM, hazelnut said:

Hi Nicky,

My current plan is to remove the engine, and install Large Li-Ion battery along with a ZombieVerter.

How is that going to work without completely reprogramming the ECU?

Car is still going to command the engine to spin up and the 2nd electric motor to connect to it to act as a generator and you can't really get around
that without reprogramming, which means you are down to 1 electric motor for power as the 2nd one tries to get power off something not their (I assume
you bypass the generator and add the power directly from the ZombieVerter when it needs power) and the CVT disconnects it from the road entirely.

So even if it works, gonna make it have what? 150hp max? Both electric motors together only generate 200hp max, I'm not sure the ratio between the two.

Sounds like a fun project, just not sure the result will be worth the work!

7 hours ago, Diego67 said:

Been to look at a 2008 450h 80k full Lexus history/ battery health all good , very tempted actually .

Even though it’s 15 years old are they a good buy ?

Also all work has been carried out at Lexus inc recently new rear shocks a few other  bits and bobs  as well .

thoughts please 

Exhaust will go at some point and need replacing. (£1k)
Front shocks as well.  (£1k)
If it's on the original traction Battery, that is likely to need replacing/reconditioning at some point. (£700/£2k).

So long as you are aware that any of these that haven't been done will likely need replacing at some point in the fairly near
future you are good. Other than those the car should be solid. My 2007 is approaching 200k miles and basically zero
signs of mechanical wear after a refurb. Still producing max power as well according to the diags 🙂

 

Always a bit of a gamble. 
I got mine for £1.7k from a dealer. Was fairly sure there was something wrong at that price but was advertised fault free.
Ofc the hybrid Battery was dodgy so I got £700 back off them for the repairs.

2 hours ago, johnatg said:

You say you don't use aircon - that's why the condenser is bad and the o-rings are leaking. You should use aircon all the time - it keeps it working properly and it has negligible effect on fuel consumption. Use it or lose it - you've lost it!

100% on the air-con. Only hurts fuel consumption for the first 5 minutes on a really hot day
as its on over-drive. 

 

37 minutes ago, Riccccccardo said:

Hi manual etc.. says fronts 35 psi and rears 36 psi i always try to keep an eye on the pressures. But you could be right re were they even when knew I have no clue.  🤷🏾‍♂️

Depends on the speed and how much you are carrying.
I've found 38 all round is good for even tyre-wear.

Don't think its on any error as when my Battery was dying, it didn't display this error.
Possibly that Battery is even more dead which produces the extra codes.

If it was the Battery through, it normally also gives you a secondary error with which cell pack it is.

 

All 3 cars I've had (Citroen, Rover and Lexus) behaved exactly the same as my 450h does in this regard.

Codes are generic enough that it could be anything.

Fact it started means there is some voltage in the traction Battery and they don't look like dead
Battery codes. But that leaves a lot of things it could be.

The 2nd code makes me suspicious that it might be something to do with the electric engine
or gearset, since that implies reduced electric motor output. 

The ECU itself is apparently sometimes the culprit:
https://www.lexunx.com/hv_control_system_regenerative_malfunction_c1259_c1310_-766.html

On 8/15/2023 at 2:33 PM, Ronock said:

Sorry guys, just realized I never updated this post despite fixing it so for anyone who finds themselves in a similar situation.

I load tested each cell again as was recommended and actually found that all the cells dropped in their readings towards the 22nd cell in the row before that cell in particular fell to bellow 6 so it seemed like a bad cell that was effecting all the others. After buying a new cell online and replacing it all the issues went away, definitely beats the Lexus dealership £4000 offer to fix it. Another massive thanks to the people that replied in this chat

Was going to say, thats exactly what happens with bad cells 😉

It flags the error and keeps flagging it till you clear the code. At which point it waits for the cell to play up again before it flags it again. 
Often the cells only fail under larger loads so after clearing the codes, it a while before the cell actually does something funny.

Had exactly the same issue. 

As the cell gets worse, the computer will react more harshly. When the cell is failing completely or overheating, the computer will
fully shut off the engine as well (aka ready light goes off) if it thinks it might be dangerous. Normally this only happens if you've
been ignoring the warning message for a long while 🙂

I believe they prefer you to keep the engine running more because of the exhaust. Don't really want water pooling
inside the exhaust.

Never seen one that told you to disengage the handbrake through. Most I've seen say set the handbrake....

Oh yeah, sounds like a botched conversion job.

Makes a lot of sense you get messages over a certain speed given the way the hybrid works, it uses the speed of the car to some degree to work out what it needs to do.
Really should use shaft-speed but god knows how the programs are configured inside. A common issue in programming is devs not using the same source of truth.

It may be something like the computer is detecting the shocks should have stiffened but haven't because the shock controller thinks its getting km/h but its getting mph.

Plugging tech-stream in might give you a bit of a clue, maybe as simple as a setting that needs flipping that got forgotten. But at worst you can check the performance numbers
(not while driving) and see if it looks like there is a mismatch in the system somewhere.