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Williboy

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Posts posted by Williboy

  1. Went to Lexus who had a look and they confirmed the pads were exactly the same dimension as the OEM. They said that my current discs were concave (so difficult to see!) and hence only the centre part of the pads were making contact. With a few hundred miles of bedding in the new pads should mould to the discs and problem solved! :) Btw, great pads, definitely less dust and good grip, even with 3/4 contact! :D

  2. Just brought a pair of hawks ceramics pads HB616Z.607 and had them fitted. Still bedding them in after a week. Do you know if they're the same size as the brembos as I'm noticing the pads are gripping only 3/4 of the discs as there a rust rings on the outer edges (top and bottom). As the pads bed in will it eventually fill out to cover the whole disc?

  3. Tried the hairdryer treatment, it works but only lasted two seatings then reverted back to its original saggy look. Took it to Lexus and a big thankyou as they refitted the entire seat under warranty without any quibbles. They simply took a picture, sent it to Lexus headquarters, once approved the seat was redone and looking like new within a few days. They said that the stitching on the sides (deep within the seat) had come loose. I recommend you all do it before the 3 years warranty expires! :)

    Seat before it was done...

    post-6565-0-42524700-1323621507.jpg

  4. Hi,

    Sorry if this topic has been discussed before but has anyone found the is-f front seats not very durable? I've found the bit where you sit on looking 'saggy' instead of that tight look. Can we claim it under warranty? Btw, I'm not particularly of heavy build if you know what I mean so think its more of a design flaw than anything else!

    Will

  5. It feels like the cable is still intact. How do I check, do I have to dismantle the lever set-up to see?

    It could just be the little plastic hinge that makes the flap pop open. It does corrode/snap easily and when it goes it won't pop open the flap when you pull the lever - so by the time you go round to it it's locked again (because the lever is back in the down/close position.

    Get a friend to hold up the fuel flap release lever in the driver's seat (or jam something under it to keep it up) while you see if you can open the flap with a little prise with a credit card.

    when u get it open check its not just a missing spring

    Thanks everyone for your help. I managed to get the fuel flap open by disengaging the lock from the inside (via the boot). The cable was intact but the spring had disappeared!. Like you said, either somebody helps to push open the flap whilst holding the lever or you can get something to jam it up.

    Btw, anyone got a spare spring or know the part number??

  6. Hi,

    I have a 2001 IS200, I've just noticed my fuel cap release button doesn't work and so the fuel flap doesn't open! Any tips how to open it without wrecking the flap? I cant' fill up with petrol! :( I recently had all my locks changed (long story!) and just noticed it. Would the repairers detached something? The boot release still works though.

  7. Hi, I brought the Meccatune 9006 fitment with 6000K bulbs, one of them blew and so I ordered a replacement. Unfortunately almost all the connectors were different on the replacement bulbs. Sadly Prolex (where I got them originally) dont have any spares. Anyone know where I can source some. I thought these connectors were universal no matter where you brought them? I got the exact same ones (i.e. 9006) as before. :whistling:

  8. The black box has gone. Thats the chip that you install to adjust the ecu fuelling for the supercharger)

    Thats inline with your Vacuum/boost sensor so would cause that fault.

    You need an HKS FCD (STD version) set on setting 9 or 10 (depending on what feels better to drive) to replace it as TTE dont do replacement black boxes anymore, just silver ones and their not cheap.

    The FCD should be about £70 -£80 on ebay,

    Stav

    Finally heard back from lexus and as you correctly said, its the black box that's gone. I couldn't believe how much the silver box cost so I'll definitely be getting the HKS FCD. Btw, what's the difference in setting of 9 or 10?

    Will

  9. Thanks for that. Can I double check your diagnosis? With the black box problem would you expect the car to start up without doing anything after a while (ie. leaving it for a few hours), drive okay for a month then have problems starting for no apparent reason (ie. not dependent on temperature, weather, driving style etc); becuase its doing that. :whistling:

  10. Hi, there's been a few threads lately of IS's not starting and the engine/TRC light coming on. Mine is getting progressively worse over the last 6 months and today the engine cut out whilst driving in peak traffic and couldn't get it started again! :( I took it to lexus and their code reader said it was the vacuum / MAP sensor showing a very low pressure?! Mine is supercharged (for years without any problems) and otherwise standard.

    Is this pressure normal or is this the source of my problems? Is it easy to change/cost? Lexus Sheffield were a bit clueless but are kindly looking at it now. They want to blame it on mods/supercharger. Is this a lcommon lexus fault?

  11. geez do you mean cambelt or the belt that drives the charger?if its cambelt i beleive its 90k/100k for the change,but some do it earlier.for the s/c belt ive had mine on for ages and they only cost £15.The cambelt also is a fairly cheap part,its just the tensioner works out at £100,and im not entirely sure of the labour time,im sure another member will be along shortly to clear that up.

    sorry, meant cambelt

  12. Hi,

    My IS is due for a belt change (is 7yrs old!) but I got a new s/c put in just over a year ago. Do i still need to change the belt (original lexus one) or was everyhting changed with the S/C? The guy at lexus says its a known problem with the IS for the belts to break / high wear and tear etc.. Is this true. How much is the job gonna be? Will it cost more coz i have a S/C as well?

  13. Btw, what makes a high beam bulb different from the main beam? Does the high beam have a higher output wattage or is it just angled higher and so gives the impression of being brighter. I have some PIAA plasma blue bulbs (cost a bomb!) that were previously used for the main beam and was wondering if it'll fit for the high beam?

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