jaaniic

On 3/9/2018 at 5:47 PM, johnatg said:

Lexus specify Dot 3 fluid.

Dot 5.1 is very hygroscopic and I would avoid it for that reason - its use is really only justified in race and rally situations.

There is only Dot 5.1 available at lexuspartsdirect. I guess that's what they use and recommend for all models now?

On 3/9/2018 at 5:47 PM, johnatg said:

Lexus specify some complicated procedure which involves using the Intelligent Tester to change brake fluid - this seems to be something to do with bleeding the Brake Actuator.

Don't know what to do. Trust this with 3rd party service or take it to Lexus? Cannot do it myself unfortunately.

A weird one, and I haven't read anything like this in any forum. Sounds a bit like a blown sub or something loose or rattling, but less noticeable on high volumes. Otherwise produces bass as it should.

Tried to move membrane with my hand. When there is no power, it moves smoothly, but when amp is on and without anything playing, sounds and feels like coil is rubbing against magnet in one certain spot. It doesn't make sense. If coil was bad, I think it should rub all the way.

There is no damage, nothing loose on plastics, cone and membrane. I even bought epoxy, hoping I could glue it back together, as this was a common problem and successful fix for many.

I'm almost sure there is nothing I can do, but maybe someone have any idea or possible fix? 

As far as I know, even basic sound system comes with a sub, but weaker one than ML version. Also in the picture there are some scratches around screw hole sub is attached to. Mby previous owner took it out because there was something wrong with it?

A month back I had the shield touching drivers side disc too, but when turning left only. That sounded like exactly what it was -  piece of metal scraping against the disc. I just bent it back a bit with my hand and that solved it. 

There is no movement at all, and suspension is all good according to independent garage and dealer.

So during my trip, heat shield came loose I guess. I could hear it rattle first, following with low frequency rumble or engine blowing sound under the floor, but it happened 3 times and lasted a few seconds, and now it's back to normal??! Will take a look in a few days if there are actually holes or just heat shield made that horrid noise. It gave me scare of my life at first moment. I thought something's gone horribly wrong with the gearbox or engine, or my wheel is falling off 😄

Anyways, this is still completely different sound from my original complaints. To explain it differently, sounds like road noise from driver's side wheel is amplified in the cabin. 

I don't think I have an issue with exhaust, noise is clearly coming from wheels and is somewhat similar if I go any speeds over 30mph, and doesn't change much if I suddenly swerve left or right. Just tried that. I really hope it's the tyres and paranoia at fault, as I too have dunlop sportmaxx. I just hope, my wheel suddenly won't fall off or lock up in the middle of my trip 😄 

It's been a long time, but did you figure it out? I have similar, seems like amplified road / tyre noise or howl coming from drivers side which seems separate from noise of all tyres and road surface don't affect it much. No rumbling. Also sometimes brake squeal like sound at parking speeds with or without brakes applied. 

I had independent garage and lexus dealer check it and found nothing, but I'm still worried, as i have 1500 mile journey ahead of me. 

When are you doing the flush and how much will they charge for that? I'm curious about results 🙂

Mine is 2008 as well with 101k miles, bought it used but don't think anybody did anything with the gearbox before. It shifts fine, but sometimes when I need to quickly accelerate, it takes 1-2 seconds to downshift, and it feels like I'm just sitting there waiting with pressed gas pedal. Would that be considered as normal behaviour? 

Update: It was a bad tire after all, which was cracked all around between thread and on the side. It would drop to 29 psi in couple hours after inflating and stay like that for months.

Out of interest, how do they perform health check? Just plugging in scanner and checking, or doing proper stress test with stats about remaining life / percentage / other?

I don't even know why people are talking about brakes. I've driven CT, IS300h, RX450h, and never found them any different from other lexus basic engine cars.

Engine will be noisy if you'll trash it, but for me it wasn't a major issue or too annoying.

Overall it's very easy and relaxing to drive. Looking to buy a CT as well 🙂

Thanks. About techstream, I meant what to look for overall.

Hi guys. I'm looking to swap my IS250 for CT with over 120k and preferably full service history, and would like to hear some new experiences with your high miler CT. I'm mostly worried about violently shaky engines, egr, head gasket issues. Any way to detect any of that upon purchase? If I bring techstream with me, what should I look out for?

I guess, leather assist doesent sell anything for cream leather?

I followed service manual and dash indicators. First, I cleared calibration, that was indicated with flashing lights and CHECK VSC, then recalibrated, which was confirmed with VSC TEST MODE indicated.

Successfully did paperclip method, but made no difference.

Thank you. There are some tutorials online with paper clip in OBD port, and service manual states similar procedure by connecting TS and CG terminals, but some people also said, it's only possible to do properly with techstream. Do you have more knowledge or experience on that?

I just checked, camber and caster are not adjustable on IS.

Red area is caster, factory spec is 8°11' +/- 45'  But still, I think, both sides are too similar to cause such pulling. My steering wheel turns roughly 20 degrees left, if I let go. Also, speed makes no difference, as long as I'm over 15 mph or so.

Sorry, it was a bad print, I added some text here. 

Here are the measurements before and after. He said, that something cannot be adjusted, I think it was camber, but still, everything should be within factory specs as far as I checked. What do you think guys?

Thank you, and yes, tracking was done professionally with Super tracker STR130RW and 4 wheel alignment.

I bought IS250 2008. It was pulling to the left, and steering wheel was off center to the left as well, so I did full tracking. Now steering wheel is straight, but it still pulls, maybe not as much, but makes driving not as comfortable and enjoyable as it could be.

Just before I bought the car, nearside front suspension arm ball joint was replaced. That work and tracking was not done by dealer. Tires are fine, pressures are spot on, brakes not jammed, I have no errors on dash and car functions fine.

I was reading somewhere, that after any suspension work or tracking, zero point calibration have to be performed, so the question is, should I try to perform it, and could that be the cause? Any other probable causes? Please share your experience.