Martyn2004

Many thanks for reponse, above seems to explain how to to re-programm the key's code . But does that mean the stolen key buttoms will not work anymore ? or that would only be if the cars code was also changed? and if so how to do that? I need to male sure the stolen key can no longer start the car by changing the immobilser code.

(Theft as just chance.). changing locks would surely not help if stolen key can still unlock with the button?

Help from those who know about this is greatly appreciated

As the post says, if you switch on and off twice, it erases the original remotes - then you can add the keys you still have back on and the stolen one shouldn't work anymore

When the locks are changed, you'll get new keys as well and the dealer will reprogram the whole thing rendering the old keys useless, but your car will be secure again :)

many thanks

I did and the car responded as per the above.

Doe this now mean the valet key is not usable anymore?

Not entirely sure about the GS, but I would have thought it's possible, as when my IS was stolen and recovered, all the keys and locks were replaced, and my old keys don't work anymore - so the codes have been changed.

Have you tried this?

The procedure is as follows:

1). With driver's door open put programmed key into ignition, do not turn, then remove it.

2). Within 40 seconds:

Press LOCK and then UNLOCK on driver's door switch 5 times at 1 second intervals.

Close and open driver's door.

3). Within 40 seconds:

Press LOCK and then UNLOCK on driver's door switch 5 times at 1 second intervals.

Insert key into ignition and switch ON and OFF:

once to keep original remotes,

twice to erase original remotes.

Remove key from ignition.

System will now lock and unlock:

once if originals kept,

twice if originals erased.

4). Within 40 seconds:

Press LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on remote simultaneously for 1.5 seconds.

Within 3 seconds press any button on remote for 1 second.

Locks should then lock and unlock once.

If locks lock and unlock twice restart procedure.

5). Within 40 seconds:

Repeat step 4 for additional remotes up to a maximum of 4.

To exit programming insert key into ignition or close driver's door.

As Steve says, I'd say hide the car and sort getting the locks changed. How was the key stolen? Was it just chance or was it somewhere where they could have scoped the car out first?

Many thanks for reponse, above seems to explain how to to re-programm the key's code . But does that mean the stolen key buttoms will not work anymore ? or that would only be if the cars code was also changed? and if so how to do that? I need to male sure the stolen key can no longer start the car by changing the immobilser code.

(Theft as just chance.). changing locks would surely not help if stolen key can still unlock with the button?

Help from those who know about this is greatly appreciated

We just had a key stolen (amongst other things) for our 98 GS300.

So we would like if someone could advise how to re-program the immobilser and remaining key fob with a new code so the stolen key can no longer work.

I have read the re-code post on this site - but I am unclear if this simply puts existing code from car on new key fob - meaning stolen key would still work, or if the code on car and key would both change and so stolen key would no longer work.

Please could someone help. Also does it have to be done to the valet key as well?

Many thanks

We just had a key stolen (amongst other things) for our 98 GS300.

So we would like if someone could advise how to re-program the immobilser and remaining key fob with a new code so the stolen key can no longer work.

I have read the re-code post on this site - but I am unclear if this simply puts old code on new key - meaning stolen key would still work.

or if the code on car and key would change and so stolen key no longer work would no longer work.

Please could someone help. Also does it have to be done to the valet key as well?

Many thanks

So it seems there are more of us who have had the same problem.

Could someone really help us all by posting details of the procedure to adjust the TPS on a GS300 ('98 onwards).

Also could someone post procedure for dismantling and cleaning throttle body.

Many thanks

I cleaned a few bits this weekend - made no difference whatsoever.

Still awfull.

Seems if you stop and re-start within half an hour or so - everything fine.

But leave it for 3/4 of an hour or more and the problem starts - at first only slight but then, the longer the gap before re-starting the worse it is.

Untill it must hit some threshold many (at least 12 ) hours later when it will be fine to start again.

Can only imagine it is temperature related, but over such a long time?

Really infuriating. I can't trust it to use. But not even Lexus seem to have any idea what the problem is. And being time-related - so difficult for a garage to actually experience.

Can anyone come up with some idea of what the problem would be.The fact that it is temp and time related must eliminate most things as it doesn't happen continuosly whicst the engine is running.

Also, can anyone advise good Lexus mechanic in the Heathrow or surrounding area. (Middlesex)

:megaangry: :megaangry:

Could anyone let me know exactly where the idle control valve is?

I have read a few posts reccomending the use of carb cleaner - but have also read that it might damage the "Oxygen Sensor"when used.

Can anyone reccomend makes which won't do such damage.

Also, could someone with the knowledge post details of how to clean the "Oxygen Sensor"

Help is appreciated

Hi,

My car has the same problem,but starts from cold fine and runs fine until switched off.Yet when you restart the car from warm it always starts but cuts out after 10 seconds or so.It can take a minute or more to get it to run.

I knows how you feel about the price of the idle control valve price pure greed at that price

You could try taking the valve off and cleaning/soaking it in thinners/petrol thats what i was told to try.It has made it slightly better starting,but not fixed the problem.Try cleaning it,might be worth a try.

Let us know how you get on.

Cheers chips.

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Hi Chips,

GOOD NEWS. My mechanic has sorted it.

Took the throttle body off and soaked the whole assembly in a solvent bath. He then sprayed liberal quantities of carb cleaner into the Idle Air Valve, and then lubricating everything with WD40, including the electrical connectors.

Now starts perfectly and runs fine when cold. Idle speed is still a bit low (around 750 rpm) so I am going to re-set the ECU (there is a post on this) which may sort it. Plan to do this tomorrow (Monday) so will keep the board "in the loop".

So, saved myself 500 quid :), but just discovered that one of the front brake calipers has a siezed piston . Explains the odd feel to the brakes, which also exhibit the usual wobble. Having new discs and pads fitted, provided I can source a caliper. So much for the legendary Lexus reliability. I have had 5 BMW 5 Series with over 100k on the clock, plus a Saab turbo with 154,00 which I sold two years ago and is still going strong, and none of them has given me any of this grief.

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Guess what!, I have exactly the same problem for some time as well with my MKII GS. Perhaps this is common issue with GS.

Lst year Lexus Twickenham seemed unable to sort it out. After charging rediculous amount to clean the throttle body they claimed everything was fine (but actually no improvment at all).

I lived with it for a year. And now she is back in Lexus Twickenham for annual service - and guess what - they spot the problem ! and now are charging me again to look at it!"

They will be calling today - I will post the result.

meanhwile, are there more of us out there who had the same issue and have some more advice on how to deal with it.

I am really fed up paying disgusting Lexus dealer prices for nothing - could anyone advise of a repuatable non-lexus garage near the Twickenham area.

The wires are for the electronic release and boot open sensor. The catch is mechanical.

I've not heard of any GS owner with this problem before.

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Problem is with the bonnet catch, rather than boot. There seems to be a plastic cover over something, underneath the metal cross brace which the catch is fixed to and I cannot see what is under it and it doesn't appear to come off.

Today, my GS MKII bonnet won't lock down. Is the catch purely mechanical oir is there some electrics involved?

There seems to be many wires leading to it.

The catch is well greased and when I push it down it moves to close but doesn't 'click' and lock in the closed position.

can anyone help . I can find no previus posts reagrding this but cannot imagine I am the first to have this problem.

muppet

:winky:

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me again :P

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Ms Piggy

Came across this little baby, in front of the hot springs in Hakone, Japan.

I am getting exactly same noise from the windscreen de-mister vent. I confirmed this by touching it when driving - doesn't take hardly any pressure to stop the buzz.

I would be very grateful if you could give any tips on removing, packing a replacing this without doing any damage to the dash or fixings.

Hi Claire,

Perhaps I and others would be very interested to know your mechanic's contact details

As previously suggested, perhaps a thread (in gold area only of course) for reccomended non-lexus mechanics for us who's companies don't pay the bills .... could have used that a couple of weeks ago ...

HI Colin,

It's a 1998 MKII

HI Colin,

It's a 1998 MKII

Lots of thanks for the pointers

It's an enfuriating problem - I will post the outcome.

1st - check those vacuum hoses ...

(PS - would it be worth re-setting the ECU anyway?)

I am hopefull LOC can come to the rescue before I pull out the last remaining strands of hair.

Cranking & idling GS300 - I have a problem ... difficult to paint but here is the picture

1. Starting from completely cold .. Fine, although always needs to turn over several times before firing ...

2. But when starting if engine warm (any degree from 1st guage marker to full ) takes much bigger crank to start, then very rough, coughs and splutters to life, revs start and stay immediatly low - hunting - almost stalls - after pulling away give it some gas and it revs but doesn't speed up, and will cough & choke - quiet backfire sometimes - no acceleration. - stop at the lights and it occasionally even stalls.

After 5 minutes it settles down and is fine from then on.

Lexus Twickers have looked at it twice - The first time (During full service) they cleaned out the throttle body - no improvement. They also stated no errors thrown up by the ECU.

Second time - they ran it cold , then hot - got someone else to check it - reported "Running fine, no problem, runs well'

Clearly they didn't really test it properly as this is happening all the time - not just occasionally and it is impossible to know how they missed it unless they simply started it, ran it untill hot and tried re-starting just once without waiting for half an hour. (Although today I was out and about, stopping off at shops etc every 10 minutes and everytime I re-satrted I had same problem.

Has anyone else experienced this problem? or can give some advice (Preferably not including lexus mechanics!) - already paid over £100 for no improvement)

A while back one of my mates was pulled over ...... just for laughing ......

It transpired one of the occumpants had told a particularly fine joke ......

I am sure it's not illegal to be in possession of a good joke ..... or is it?

(We guessed the copper thought everyone was laughing at him!)

Thanks for the replies - quite a way to go - but maybe worth it! does anyone know any others?

Not entirely sure what a Prolex remit is - perhaps someone could expand on that one.

Has LOC considered running a list of alternatives to Lexus centres - with reviews - like there is for dealers?

I know some owners probably never even see the invoices - but I am sure for the majority of us finding a trustworthy alternative in the area could be very beneficial ..

Looking through the boards, I so far cannot find hardly any discussions or lists on non-Lexus workshops which are reccomended for Lexus repairs.

Having just been given an extortionate quote for some suspension revamping I was hoping someone could advise if they know of a reliable and reasonable workshop in the Middlesex area who specialise in Lexus repairs.

The "Lexus" name on the door sill just got caught and half of it's now gone. It appears to simply be glued into a resess in the crome surround. :

Does anyone know where I can get another?