mrteach1973

5 hours ago, H3XME said:

That's extortionate! 

In what place did it rust? Rear section is normally the first to go and that's ~£300 - many off the shelf solutions on eBay. 

The whole things needs replacing. So I have the rear bit  for £300 ish but cant find the other bits I would need. Anyone know what to look for?! Central bit?! Not very knowledgeable on these things.

Looking for some advice.

The exhaust on my '08 Lexus IS 200 has dropped off, as the bracket rusted through.

I have been quoted £2700 for a genuine replacement and £1500 for an after market.

Any recommendations for a cheaper alternative would be great, as may as well scrap the car as it is only worth around £3000 anyway.

38 minutes ago, J Henderson said:

Yeah. There's 2 bulbs in there. The one you need to change is the small one in the upper half.

You might need to remove or loosen the air filter box for access. (Or just buy the bulbs from Halfords and have them fit 'em for £10 or whatever)

Superb! Thanks so much. Job for tomorrow

7 minutes ago, NemesisUK said:

Can you simply switch on the lights and look to see which one is dim?

Thats the point, they dont really look dim. so just want to make sure

2 minutes ago, J Henderson said:

The small bulb located in the upper part of the high beam reflector. The inner lamp.

Bulb size/type is W5W aka 501 aka T10

This one?! Thanks again

6 minutes ago, Spock66 said:

Otherwise called the sidelight, probably a small 5w bulb.

Sorry to be a pain. Which one is it on the image that I uploaded. Thanks for all your help.

11 minutes ago, J Henderson said:

Offside = Driver's side in a RHD environment 

Hi there.Thanks. But which light are the talking about when they say offside position light?!

20 minutes ago, Spock66 said:

But by convention referred to as the right, as in right hand drive etc.

HI. yes but after which of the lights it is. 

New one for me.

Light works but is not quite bright enough

However, will get it replaced but which lamp is it refering to on this photo?

In the UK so drivers side is the left as we look at it.

6 hours ago, Phil xxkr said:

No, unless you pre agreed terms and conditions that said you were part exchanging. Alternators are commonly refurbished and sold on for a good price. See eBay for examples. Did you buy new or refurbished? 

New

42 minutes ago, Malc said:

is this what you want to do then ?

under a 12 month old ?

otherwise it's more or less scrap to a novice BUT the garage who supplied the replacement now would have undoubtedly done it on the usual, common practice, exchange basis from their supplier .....  and if you want it that bad then maybe you could cough up the silly £160 ......  or do what everybody else would do .....  let the fitting garage send it back as the exchange unit ......  common practice .......... and that would usually reign supreme in any legal argument I would think

Malc

The point is that the schedule of works states replacement and NEW. So an exchange indicates that they are correcting a problem they have caused by fitting a faulty item originally.

The item they replaced was originally fitted by another garage. It is them I have to send the unit too to get a refund.

Surely the surcharge and this whole  process needs to be clearly visible in their T&C's or the schedule of works for any one looking to use the garage for this kind of work?

Hi

I just had the alternator fixed on my Lexus and the garage are saying if I want the old alternator to claim a refund from the company as it is faulty I have to pay them £160 for it!?

Is this common place?

Do the garage now own the old alternator?

Many thanks

19 minutes ago, Texas said:

Need to depress the plastic tab exactly where the numbers are shown on it!

Oooh! Ok. Will give it a go tomorrow. Exciting!

20 hours ago, ColinBarber said:

You need it set to Volts, 20v scale if it isn't an auto-ranging meter. Definitely make sure you don't have it set to current (Amps) or have the lead plugged into the Amp socket.

Like this one:

So did the tests as instructed.

Without engine on: 12.5  Then with lights on 12.04

With engine on: 14 Then revved 13.7. All the heaters lights etc 13.4...

Not sure what to do now...

1 hour ago, Linas.P said:

This is battery temp sensor. It is quite standard clip, but pain to reach - there is little tang you need to press and then it comes off quite easily. Don't rip it off thought - might be expensive mistake.

Is it the bit that goes into the part attached to the actual case, rather than what looks like two wires coming together?

Thanks

I was wondering if anyone had any tips for removing this wire from the positive side of the plastic surround around the Battery.

I can't seem to work it out. Is it the black bit actually on the plastic case I need to pry away 

See image below.

Many thanks

2 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

I would measure the voltage across the battery with the engine turned off. You should see something around 12.4 to 12.8 volts. Then turn on the headlights for 30 seconds and see if the voltage drops under 12 volts. If it does I would charge the battery before repeating the test. If after charging you see under 12v with the headlights on then your battery is not in good shape.

If the battery seems ok then start the engine, you should see the voltage read above 13 volts, and up to 14 volts if you rev the engine passed 2,200 rpm. Then turn on your headlights and rear window heater and make sure the voltage doesn't drop. That will test the alternator is working to a reasonable level.

That sounds like great advice. Will borrow one tomorrow from my neighbout and give it a whirl. Do you know what the tester should be set too? As in current? 

Just now, mrteach1973 said:

Hi. The battery connectors are really clean as is the battery terminal...

Yeah all good.

1 hour ago, ColinBarber said:

Possibly just your 12v battery isn't charged or is not able to hold a full charge rather than assuming an alternative fault.

Do you have a volt meter you can measure the voltage of your battery?

Do you have a battery charger?

Hi What am i looking for in regards to the numbers for the Battery when testing it?

Do I need to do it with engine off and on...with revs or not?

Many thanks for your help.

56 minutes ago, m4rkw said:

https://www.digikey.com/en/blog/how-to-properly-clean-battery-contacts

I would start with that as it's pretty much free and if it doesn't work you haven't lost anything.

Hi. The Battery connectors are really clean as is the Battery terminal...

So when I turn my Lexus IS250 on and put the headlights to full beam, they get brighter than dimmer in time with my engine, as the engine idles.

They arent that bright either.

Do people think this is related to the wiring or maybe the alternator?

Im thinking more the alternator as it seems to happen in time with the jerky idle.

Any help would be fab.

Lexus IS250

Should also say that the bumpy idle seems to sync with the lights getting bright and dim.

What does that mean?

Hi

After some advice

I think my alternator is on the way out as when my lights are on full beam they flicker and go bright/dim/bright/dim.

I heard that if you whack everything on inside the car heaters, radio etc and then have yoru lights on and floor it, they should get brighter if the aternator is working well.

Does that sound right?

Anyway there was no difference in brightness and the full beam kept getting brighter than dimmer repeat....

Does this sound like the alternator is failing? Or does it point to another problem.

The car seems to rough idle as well 

Hi

I had my alternator replaced with a RTX back on August and I think it is failing again.

Flickering lights, rough idle, Battery light is flashing on and off intermittedly

Does this all make sense?

Anyway been quoted for a LUCAS alternator as the DENSO ones are on back order.

Any one have any experience of these and whether they are worth the effort?

Many thanks

I was just wondering how you can tell by looking, if the Battery is the original Battery?

My car is an IS250 2006 Sport Model.

Many thanks