Ozzay

Before I replaced the passenger side mirror I must have shorted something because I was trying to tuck the electric wires from the door mirror inwards. 

Radio and climate control and door mirror control functions are not working. The climate control backlight is on with a solid line at the bottom. The hot air seems to coming out but can't control it from buttons nor can I see anything.

Radio and clock is off. 

Replaced passenger side door mirror. The puddle light comes on as per normal when you go near the car or car is unlocked. 

Tried replacing radio1 + radio2 fuse nothing. Radio 3 looked blown to me but replaced that as well still nothing.

I am not sure which fuse is for the mirror control?

Anyone have any clues?

Bit of a downer as well. Hit my passenger side door mirror as some other cars door was open mid road. Cracked mirror. And bits and bobs came out. Lucky mirror still folds in.

But need a replacement anyone know of any genuine replacement mirror with the backplate?

21 hours ago, Zuke said:

The trip is evolving more in the direction of the west coast, Mull Skye Oban.. but we may tootle up that way, the joys of being retired Oz. Good to know it wont kill the car. Are there any additives that might help?

 

I would want to visit the Isle of Skye someday

I used the Wynns Specialist E10 Protector. I can't say anything about it except I hope it did something in there. But like Linas said, can't see how a few tankfulls would do any damage. It's long-term use of the stuff that builds up the water. Vlad posted some stuff from Millers. Just used Millers oil in the IS250 and I think the oil is meant to be top-notch so probably can trust this brand.

I probably would not waste money worrying about a 2-3 tanks of E10 so don't waste your money buying protection.

34 minutes ago, Zuke said:

The main reason for asking is we are about to go up to Scotland touring in the car. There does seem to be a reasonable amount of petrol stations with E5, from what I'm reading, if I'm stuck , the odd tank, or half tank of E10 will be ok.

Previous to the switch to mainly E10 I used standard unleaded, which was E5. Since now only running on premium, Vpower etc I have noticed a gain in performance. Also MPG seems to have improved .  

I went Scotland for the NC500 in my IS250. Down there I found pumps Unleaded 95 without the E numbers. E10 won't hurt I didn't notice a difference in performance I must have used it twice at least out there I think I filled up 4 or 5 tanks worth in my whole journey.

2 mechanics said suspension looks fine and solid. One lex specialist. Calipers no issues.

Car seems a bit more rough on the roads and more bouncier than before. Can feel more of the road and the bumps then ever before.

I got a slight feeling rear suspension spring or something is not right or worn. But visibiliy looks fine. Mechanic said only 1cm difference on one side from the other (rear) when measuring ride height.

Just feels a bit boaty and a bit rough.

Had wheel alignment done from quick fit recently about 2 months ago. 

Reverse gear on turn sometimes hear a clunk rear left.

Anyone got any ideas or had similar issues?

More or less brand new tyres last 4 months Goodyear Asym 6 always pressured correct.

Found an exhaust issue today. Was not intending to look for this issue but was looking at the clunking issue. At that backbox has a hole in there. Does anyone recommend I buy the unit (back box rear right) or can I just bandage this? I did wonder why my car sounded a bit louder than usual from the back.

To not start another thread and keep this topic of maintenance up...

IS250 2007 recommends Toyota Genuine Differential Gear Oil LT 75W-85 GL-5

It says it requires 1.1 or 1.2 litres.

They only sell it it 1litre bottles. Would I get away with the 1 litre bottle or should I buy 2 litres but the issue is most of it will never be used again for ages.

Nice.

Was change of spark plugs included in the FSH?

What about transmission fluid. Might be worth changing at some point.

I bought my car 3 years ago and have not changed the diff fluid might do that.

What oil you using.

Stalling? Don't know about that I had a rough idle because of a ignition coil pack at bank 2 but never stalled.

6 hours ago, Mr Vlad said:

Sorry but you're wrong. Insurance companies now Must give renewal quotes at the same time a new customer would get a quote for. It's now law

So I have no chance then. 

I will carry on enjoying the IS250 then.

9 hours ago, Newbie777 said:

Not good news.

If you come up North, insurance gets worse.

As mentioned before in another thread. Locality does not pay anymore, so if you have to elsewhere the existing company will not help and do a better deal, in fact they prefer new customers!

I saw some guy on TikTok say make a new account on comparison websites. I will try that approach. Up North? Thought it gets cheaper

Ridiculous costs being in East london. 1800 for the 335D even with me having max NCB protected and having 17 years of driving under my belt with 0 claims.

The IS250 is around 500 now its going up every year.

Factoring in the extra insurance and hoping to save fuel while getting some power is not worth it even after the lower tax, lower resident permit, 10p a litre off the fuel as I currently use E5.

Not worth it is it considering I probably will end up with bigger bills than the Lex (it didn't really have any).

Same cars are around half of that in areas much out of London. Oh the perks of living in these areas.

The garage said your suspension is solid can't find anything wrong with it. Alignment looks fine. Before they test drove it one mechanic said look at your bushes they are dry. Didn't know that was a thing. He sprayed the front two bushes (both sides) with some innoctech spray which looked like some lubricant. Then they test drove it and they couldn't find the issue. It was better after that I don't know what it was, jacking the car on the ramp or the spray or just coincidence.

Then the man said have a look at your angle sensor. Right now the cars not too bad not doing that same shaky thing when hitting the lightest crack on the road.

Well at least that saves me some time. Don't wanna spend a penny more on this car.

Click and no attempt to crank/start?

Got goodyear assymetric 6 all around

If anyone has a shot in the dark.

New tyres all the way around alignment done. Mechanic didn't find any suspension issue. But definitely shimmys easier than other cars in uneven roads and in general. Something off. What could it be that is not so obvious.

I would get it done. When I bought the car at 83k I done the trans fluid change 6 months after.

All original stuff. ATF Fluid from Aisin for the Aisin gearbox. Gasket seal around pan and filter. Done by a trans specialist in Thurrock. 

I can tell you straight away that the difference could be seen so yes to doing as everyone recommends here.

I have a thread called ownership costs which goes through stuff I did for maintenance. Its always cheaper doing the labour yourself if you can.

Watch out for calipers being seized (caliper + sliding pins). You want to get the after market pins from some eBay shop called Frentech and you must get the correct type for your car I made that mistake and it ended up costing me.

Aside from that I still need diff fluid done which I will do next month. And also I have just fitted 4 new Goodyear tyres Asymmetric 6 they do drive so well with them on after having made the mistake buying some cheap brand which probably didn't work well with the Goodyear at the front (my guess alongside the others here). When I first got the car the tyres were Ventus EVO2 all around. Looking back now they were actually very good as well.

Just my opinions. The only issue I have ever had in almost 25,000 miles and 3 years upcoming was when giving the car to cowboy mechanics. One mechanic somehow got one of my coil packs bending in bank 2 and it was rough idling for a long time. He denied anything and came up with all sorts of theories never being able to fix the problem until I took it to an actual Lexus specialist. I have learned to trust my gut from now.

The others in this community have helped here over the years so I am just giving my thoughts.

The tyre guy such a snake. 

He tells me after I would never put this on my car and he said you should have spent more and bought Kumo.

He tells me all this after fitting the tyre lol. Maybe because it was black circles order and it might look fishy everytime he advises customers and returns them.

You reckon I should just get assym 6 at the back now since the front has them don't know if assym 5 are better they are more popular due to the time they been around I'm sure 6 is better but maybe I should check my suspension first.

6 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

Few review mentioned that this tyre in particular caused them to think alignment wasn't right, car was wondering on the road and that bearing was worn out... surely as I said, take a bucket of salt before reading reviews, but may that have something to do with your suspicion of something being wrong in suspension? 

Possibly.

The Dunlops you recommended for the fronts years ago on here were only replaced a month ago they were decent except the crabbing in winter but that might be most tyres rear wheel driven in winter. Had a puncture in them too and because the rear had a puncture once it made it seem like the car was shimmying more than it should over little cracks locally.

Oh well I did it again. Buying without thinking. 

Tyre punctures destroyed a hefty amount of money so I thought let me buy cheap. But did not expect the ride to be different it does feel like im skating but at the same time it feels like the grip is there without any actual slide going on. Is it that my cars turned into a Rolls Royce. Motorways clean roads they are fine.

I know you get what you pay for. The tyre guy said buy off me next time lol. Why could he not say that at the start he said buy KUMHO. But my option is either by ASYM 6 to match the front or buy something that I previously had that worked. Hankook ventus.

I have Assym 6 at the front because I got them on a deal.

I could probably sell my tyres cheaply but who would buy them.

Think you both are right. Something about the front tyres not exactly working well with the rear tyre. But then again now I am thinking could suspension components be worn. I really don't know. But I definitely could tell the car was heavier and wasn't staying on the road without effort when the shoulder was punctured/repaired.

245/45 R17

Put these tyres on the rear from BlackCircles after reading reviews left by people with decent cars Mercs Audis BMWS and saw an IS250 review as well.

Decent in the dry and good grip and seem fine on the motorway. But the car feels floaty. Steering got a bit lighter. Small cracks on the road seem to have the steering wheel move a bit sometimes. In a way its quite good because it seem a little more fun to drive.

Had to get rid of my Assym 5 at the back only had for one year 9000 miles due to a nail on the shoulder. Was repaired but definately was not driving properly. Thought I would try the cheap brand for £150.

Anyone experienced similar tyres like this. They do seem quiet and smooth I have to say but not sure about how long they will last. The garage man mentioned Kumho tyres. I have Assym 6 at the front recently new.

As long as your well don't worry about the car.

But we'd be interested to know what you buy next. Go for the LS lol.

Update:

It was an ignition coil issue because it was arching when hot because it was missing the end part.

New ignition coil and new spark plug in bank 2 with new tube gasket seal.

Car is working and much much better, light acceleration feels effortless again and no more rough idle.

On 3/15/2023 at 11:13 PM, eleveneleven said:

Thanks for the update buddy much appreciated. 

A few days ago I decided to fill up with V-Power instead of the usual Tesco momentum. After about 20 minutes of driving I stopped at a traffic light and..Silence. the issue seems to have pretty much stopped, it's not gone completely, it's more intermittent now but it Idles slightly higher now in D/R when warm. Not quite sure what that's telling me though other than I could do with using Vpower (which I'd rather not) could it be an oxygen sensor issue maybe? I'll take your advice and start by running some injector cleaner over the next couple of fill ups and see how that plays out. Mines currently on 90k and hasn't had a fresh set of spark plugs in a while not checked for vacuum leaks and MAF hasn't been cleaned on my watch so those will be the next steps at some point this year. 

Hope you manage to get yours sorted too mate, it's an annoying niggle with the only solution being a process of elimination by the sounds of it. 

Keep us posted. 

 

 

 

@eleveneleven

Mechanic made me drive the car today after MOT.

He has the Toyota techstream/CPU connect to the OBD port and while driving monitored the numbers.

Got the feint heartbeats hear and there fortunately. On the computer it was coming up as misfire on cylinder 2 but went away quickly. So not enough to hit the threshold of causing a warning back to me. But at least he confirmed the numbers and said we need a new coil pack and of course might as well change the spark plug in bank 2 as well. The only thing that gets to me is that he wants to replace the intake manifold seal/gasket everyone he opens that box up.

I will see what the prices are for this. New plug will be at least £10 to £15 I think. Used coil is around £20 minimum but he said buy it new Denso. Will keep you posted after the fix. Bare in mind I could probably do this myself but just won't be able to on my road too much chaos and more things can go wrong I think.

On 3/8/2023 at 2:15 PM, eleveneleven said:

@Ozzay did you ever figure out what the issues was? Mine has been doing it for the last 4 months now, idles at 500 ish RPM causing heartbeat like vibrations. It's been serviced recently and no fault codes showing 

Interesting I just logged in to post about my recent troubles and you give me this message.

You know what did work. I used to have engine sputter and confusion when the car was on low revs driving when slightly uphill. Over a period of 4 months I used the Forte petrol injector product which is meant to be very good. The engine vibrations went away.

If you read my other thread where the mechanic told me it was the intake manifold seals. He did that plus calipers. No rough idle for weeks but even after the petrol treatments my engine is sputtering on acceleration sometimes (usually when warm). I had cylinder bank 2 misfire twice in January/Feb and put the third petrol injector treatment in. The mechanic said try the fuel treatment stuff again. It could be dirty injectors. It could be a ignition coil failing. Bad spark plug. Bad connector. Vacuum leak anywhere though I promise I have seen it all myself can't find anything. I cleaned the throttle body once in 2021 and MAF sensor and again throttle body was cleaned by the mechanic who ruined my car in June 2022 (the one who advised the rocker cover gasket seals to be changed). 

In May 2022 sparks were changed. Car was fine before and after.

When June came and those rocker cover gasket seals were put in the car then experienced rough idling. He did not fix it because he was guessing things. Big regret going to him. After he claimed the injectors were dirty. Well the car had 0 issues before and suddenly injectors was the problem. The issue is even the Lexus specialist will be wasting his time and money on me though he has been OK because they need to see codes.

So there were 2 mechanics at play here. One who ruined the car with the rocker cover gasket seals (mysterious). The 2nd one is a Lex specialist who tried to resolve the problems (intake manifold seal (guess work IMO))

So as of right now I need to do the following:

Re-check vacuum leaks literally everywhere

Check sensors. 

Don't know how I am going to check injectors without stripping it apart.

Could replace ignition coil and spark on bank 2 but that's guess work as well.

I really don't know. The cars amazing in general but very unhappy at this minute so do let me know what you find. Others boil it down to carbon issues. If yours was just services. I could only think of the airbox, air intake and filter being a culprit. Other people did suggest EGR valve as well.

PS. Ides rough at 500 sometimes. When warm and stopped in Drive or Reverse rough idle heart beat. Acceleration is not what it used to be. Tried various fuels. The car idles at 1k exactly when the cars sitting from cold (stopped). When it gets warm it lowers to between 500-700rpm.