Sofa table

I think the lens is glued on. But then again what do you have to lose? I'd remove the camera from the car and take a closer look at how it's put together.

I had the same issue on my 2015 CT but fortunately got the whole camera replaced by the dealer.

Before anything else, I'd check cabin filter and the air intake area near the windshield for leaves etc.

Definitely annoying. As far as I know it can be changed to only three beeps at your local Lexus service.

16 hours ago, SRVO said:

 

VERDICT: It worked! I can confirm it has completely removed the anti-glare coating (no more purple tint) but it doesn't seem to affect anything. A few minor scratches remain which I'll remove when I spend more time on it, however this result was achieved in just 5-10 minutes and there is a huge improvement.

A couple of things to note if you're going to try it yourself:
- I used masking tape around the edges of the screen to prevent it getting on the rest of the unit.
- I only used a small amount of liquid at a time (pea sized amount on a microfibre cloth, moving in all directions).
- I avoided rubbing the white text above the buttons as I wasn't sure if it would remove them (it probably wouldn't, but better safe than sorry).

Thanks everyone for your help and advice 👍

Splendid! Did you end up using the Mequiar's stuff?

Polishing compound and a microfibre cloth maybe? I've been meaning to do it myself but haven't just gotten around to it since mine isn't too bad.

I had a problem where air would stay in the tire just fine when driving around the city, but getting on the highway would always result in a tpms warning light and a flat tire. Turned out the tpms sensor wasn't tightened on the rim properly. As I got up to speed the valve stem would move due to the larger forces caused by speed, letting air out.

Hopefully you'll get yours resolved too.

Personally I haven't installed android auto to my ct, but something like this seems pretty simple and functional:

4 hours ago, DarkoDarko said:

Thank you

 

much appreciated 

 

Darko

Getting that piece off requires pulling the mirror glass off and it CAN break. Dont ask me how I know 🙂

On 4/6/2022 at 4:33 PM, Las Palmas said:

 

This filter, right side of rear seat is the one that Lexus does not clean when the car is serviced. We clean it every 4 - 6 months.

It is easy and a 10 minutes job.

Does the plastic cover just pop off?

On 3/29/2022 at 5:29 PM, Herbie said:

I'm sure that what you're feeling is just the torque of the engine spinning up but even if I'm wrong, I don't think there's any need for concern. If the car is in D and you lift your foot off the brake then it will creep forward, but there's nothing wrong with holding your foot on the brake to prevent that.

One time this happened I could hear the brakes making a noise (pads sliding against rotor) as I was not on the brake pedal very heavily. This leads me to believe it was not just the engine shaking the car. Probably fine though as you said.

17 hours ago, Las Palmas said:

If you have the brake pressed down (you should have if waiting for green light) then the car will not move. The little shake you feel would be the engine getting gasoline and ignition.

When using 98 octane the car we have is not moving or shaking, but BP 95 octane has had the car shake a bit a couple of times.

I am holding brake and as the engine starts I can feel the car wanting to move a tiny amount against the brakes. Hopefully someone else can comment also

8 hours ago, Herbie said:

Hi Nick, is it your first hybrid as well as your first Lexus? If so, you may find the following information to be some help. If not, I apologise if it appears that I'm trying to teach my granny to suck eggs.

First of all, hybrids don't have a traditional starter motor or alternator, or anything that would normally be driven by a belt from the engine because the engine doesn't run all the time - imagine being halfway through a turn and you lose power steering because the engine shuts down! Instead, it's all driven electrically.

 The 12V battery boots up the computers and gets the car into READY mode, equivalent to switching on the ignition and having the engine idling in a conventional car. At this point you can drive off on battery power alone if you so wish, but these aren't electric cars and you'd only get a couple of miles (if that) before the traction (hybrid) battery was effectively flat. When the hybrid system wants the petrol engine (ICE - Internal Combustion Engine) to run, it energises Motor/Generator 1 (MG1) and uses that to spin the ICE up to 1,000rpm before applying fuel and a spark to fire it.

 In a standard car the 12V battery is charged up by the alternator but we don't have one. Instead, a device called a DC/DC converter steps down the 288V from the traction battery to about 14.5V to charge it. The converter/inverter uses the same process for other systems like the power steering which, if I remember correctly, uses 48V.

 The aircon compressor is driven by a 500V 3-phase AC variable frequency motor and the two hybrid transaxle motors MG1 and MG2 are both 650V permanent magnet motors. Talking of the aircon compressor, if the system ever needs to be regassed, make sure that you take it to an aircon specialist (or, of course, a Lexus dealer) who knows about and can deal with hybrids.

The reason for this is that, although the refrigerant gas is the same as any other car, the lubricating oil isn't. As I said above, the aircon compressor is driven by an electric motor and the motor windings are immersed in the oil for cooling purposes. Standard compressor oil is called PAG oil but it's a low dielectric oil which means that it conducts electricity and it will damage the motor windings. We need to use ND11 oil which is a high dielectric and won't damage the windings. It's been shown that as little as 1% contamination by PAG oil can, and will, cause problems. Maybe not immediately but it will. Ideally, a specialist should have a dedicated ND11 machine so that cross-contamination with PAG can't happen.

 Although it's perfectly alright to jump start a hybrid with a standard car, NEVER, EVER, do it the other way round - you may get away with it but it's not worth the risk. The 12V battery in any car is only used for starting and then the alternator or equivalent takes over the running of the 12V systems such as lights, radio etc., etc. When jump starting the 'donor' car should have its engine running before the 'recipient' car attempts to start. This is so that the recipient will draw on the donor alternator, not its battery. This is all fine and dandy for a standard alternator because it can output anywhere upwards of 300A and a conventional starter motor will need every Amp of that, but our DC/DC converter can't supply anywhere near that amount and if it was asked to do so it may well expire with a very loud bang and lead to a very expensive repair.

 It's a very bad idea to run out of petrol in a hybrid but if you do, make sure to put in 10 litres before trying to start it and be aware that if you have more than three unsuccessful attempts at restarting, the hybrid system could lock out and need a dealer to reset it.

At traffic lights or other holdups, if you think you'll be moving in a minute or two, just leave the car in D with your foot on the brake. If you think it'll be a while before you move again, put the car in P and you can take your foot off the brake. However, don't put the car in N because the hybrid system doesn't charge the batteries in Neutral.

Sorry for boring you but now, above all else, enjoy the car.

OT but I'm a hybrid newbie as well and have a quick question. When I'm sitting at traffic lights and the ICE is turned off, sometimes I sit there for so long the ICE has to start up before I start moving. This causes the car to nudge forward a tiny bit, enough for me to feel it. Is this normal? If I had to guess it's caused by the moment of inertia of the planetary gears.

On 9/20/2020 at 1:20 PM, Brendan3006 said:

Hi Guys,

Having considered all the options I have eventually changed my tyres from the original 225/45/17 to 225/50/17's (Good Year Efficient Grip). My local tyre shop were very helpful and fitted these to try out while giving me the option of changing them back again within a day or two if they was any problem or if I wasn't happy.

The new sized tyres transformed the car completely and now it feels and drives more quietly. It is vastly more comfortable on the road, and feels like a luxury vehicle should. The tyres also look much better while filling the wheel arch more and the car sits slightly higher. I can't understand why Lexus persist with fitting the lower profile tyres.

I checked with my Insurers and they have no problem with the change. Also, I checked the speedo against my Sat Nav and an independent App on my Phone and both confirm the car's speedo is now accurate i.e. I have lost the manufactures built in leeway but I can live with that.

Thanks for the previous advice.

Hi Brendan, fresh Lexus CT owner here from Finland. I just got a '16 model which only came with winter tires (one of the reasons I got a pretty good deal on it!), which means I should be looking for summer tires before the snow is gone. Luckily, I stumbled upon 17"x7" rims and used 225/50/17 tires which I could get for basically free.

My question is are you running the stock(?) 7" wide rims with your 225/50/17 tires? I'm a little concerned about the bulge of 225 wide tires on a 7" rim. Could you maybe share a picture? Thanks!