santeri

I'm back again, unfortunately, Parcel Force was messing about with my package for so long and I finally got it today, but, the ECU swap didn't do the trick, still no ignition. So I'm back to doing the immo kit...

Linas, looking through my saved post regarding this fix I came across something which I'd like to pick your brains about if you don't mind:

Quote

steering lock (column removal not required, one can simply replace PCB inside the lock)

I'm assuming it's this panel that gives access to the PCB.

If so, do you just pry it out? And would this be done without messing with the shear-off bolts that hold the steering lock in place?

On 7/3/2023 at 10:02 AM, Linas.P said:

ECU is is not codded to anything, so you can simply pop the ECU in, run the reset procedure and it will link with all the parts. That is at least true for IS250, but I don't see why IS220d would be different in this regard. Bonus - for IS220d there is only few ECUs available, whereas on IS250 there are few dozen different versions.

Glad to hear that.

Following your advice, I order the ECU for a whopping price of £15(+shipping) from eBay. Same P/N and even the subpartnumber.

It should arrive tommorow, I'll post the update.

On 6/29/2023 at 1:08 AM, Linas.P said:

Not too bad - disconnect the battery, 2 small plastic covers on the sides, 2x torx T40 (if memory serves), disconnect the airbag, MARK THE ALIGNMENT, disconnect the clock spring and just undo the nut. Just make sure not to hit yourself in the face with the wheel when pulling it of 😄 

As well make sure to time the cable clock spring... or rather make sure that it doesn't move. If you clock it incorrectly then it will it apart on full lock. Else it turns total of 5 (more like 5.5) rotations lock to lock and after 2.5 rotations from once side it should be clocked correctly and cables should be at 12 o'clock. I always get paranoid when doing it, but I have little clip tool which you can put in to make sure it is locked.

Overall, it is nothing complicated, but there is potentially to mess it up if rushing it. 

Ideally get workshop manual and it will have everything step by step. 

Thank you.

For anyone who might stumble upon this thread, my symptoms are still the same as Neville's, and I haven't changed the immo kit yet.

Now the good/bad news: I had access to an original Alientech tool, so I tired to do bench read/write of the ECU. I couldn't even get it to identify the ECU, so I think it's safe to think the ECU is dead in this case.

ECU kits are easier to come by then the Immo kits, but now the questions is which components are coded to it and need to be changed together, like in the case of immobiliser replacement. I will update once I figure it out.

1 hour ago, Linas.P said:

Do you have manual or electronic steering column? 

Mine is manual.

I found some videos on getting the steering wheel off, doesn't seem too bad compared to some other cars.

On 6/27/2023 at 7:48 PM, Linas.P said:

Just these:

BUT, you may need to replace these if your matching donor parts do not match the rest:

I know it is confusing, because it is confusing.

So let's say you have ID Code Box as xxxxx-53010, steering lock as xxxxx-53010 and smart key module is xxxxx-53010. If you get replacement set as xxxxx-53010 as well, then you don't need to replace anything else. However, if you replacement set is something like 53014, then it may not work. In my case I have replaced SmartKey Module, because my parts were 53014 and the set came with SmartKey Module anyway. I don't know if my 53010 would have worked, so I just replaced it because I had it. My set as well had Gateway and Power Source ECUs, but they were same numbers as already fitted so I have not replaced them. The SmartKey Module in my set was 53011. I have as well replaced power button, but that is not required, the replacement was simply in better condition and mine was scratched-up. I have not replaced anything else (not for this reason anyway).

All clear, thanks Linas.

Any tips on getting the plastic steering wheel cover off to access the steering lock? (I'd rather not take the steering wheel off but it seems like I'll have to)

My steering wheel is currently locked in a straight position, blocking the two bolts that hold the cover in place. 

On 6/24/2023 at 6:49 PM, Linas.P said:

I have replaced it. 

Myself I simply contacted like 5 sellers on ebay who were braking IS250/220d for parts and ask them specifically for matching kit... and one of them agreed to go and get it for me. 

Hi Linas,

I'm still in the process of getting the parts. I read back all the info I gathered and there's still something that's not clear to me.

So for my sake and everyone else's who might have to go through this, could you please list all the parts you replaced from the same donor?

At this point I'm certain about:

Keys

ID Code Box

Steering Lock

SmartKey Module

Double Door Lock ECU?

Gateway ECU?

BCM?

Power Source Control  ECU?

23 hours ago, Linas.P said:

@santeri Sorry was away for some time

Immo + steering lock + keys are codded together. So not only they must be matching part numbers, but as well programmed to work together e.g. regardless of what is part number for ID Code Box it must be from the same vehicle as well as keys and steering lock, even if all part numbers match they are not codded together and won't work. It is basically the same as taking your keys walking next to another Lexus and trying to unlock it, just won't recognise the key. That is literally what happened to me - I have replaced ID code box with keys, cars unlocks, engine starts, but the steering remains locked and I get DTC for steering lock communication.

Then the rest of the parts must be just matching part numbers e.g. ID Code Box is 89783-53010 and matching Smart Key Module is 89990-53010. As long as they are matching part numbers they can be from completely different car. Say one from 2008 IS250 and another from 2006 IS220d. And there is some acceptable range but I don't know exactly e.g. in my case I had 53014 and 53011.

Yes engine ECU can be reset to talk to new set of keys and immobiliser by connecting terminals TC and CG for ~40min. Strangely I have not found the way to do it on the diagnostics computer.

No worries.

Thank you very much for going in depth with this. I think I almost have all the info that I need now to tackle this.

Did you only confirm that you SmartKey module had the same part number as your donor car, or did you replace it as well?

I will likely go to a scrapyard for the parts, as none of the current ECU kit listings on eBay have the ID box included. (I might ask them to include it though)

The dash is halfway removed already, so I will first have a look at the ID box, hoping there's a PCB issue that can be fixed like in Neville's case, instead of replacing the kit.

Wish me luck 😬

23 hours ago, Linas.P said:

I have replaced ECU kit - must be matching keys + ID box + steering lock

Did you not need the steering column as well, as it has it's own module? I read this was the case and I'd be happy if it's not true.

23 hours ago, Linas.P said:

but as well they need to be matching part numbers to gateway and smart key module.

Could you please elaborate on this, just to be certain. Does it mean that if for example my SmartKey P/N is "123", the other one has to be "123" as well, or do the modules need to have some matching numbers between themselves?

23 hours ago, Linas.P said:

if the car was unlocked remotely, but key was never detected and and you try to start the car then it will say "no key detected".

 

Thanks for confirming that.

23 hours ago, Linas.P said:

Other option I am thinking about - faulty brake pedal, clutch pedal or gear selector switch i.e. car doe not recognise that you depress clutch, so it does not know you attempting to start it. 

I pray that it's actually the start button that's faulty 😄 

Finally, would you be able to confirm if the first post from here is accurate where it says that you can perform "handshake" between SmartKey+immo and the ECU, when putting in a replacement ECU? (not saying I need one at this point) https://www.clublexus.com/forums/maintenance/854715-used-ecu-swapping-and-programming-to-immobilizer.html

Apologies for the ramble, I just realised I unnecessarily reiterated many things you said in your last reply. 

Got me thinking, in a working car, if you enter it without a key and try to start it (or go to acc), will it always say "no key detected " or will it just stay dead?

24 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

power seats are always on, so they only need battery to be connected to work.

check OBD2 fuse, although you need to be in IG ON to be able to use OBD2, so if the car does not cycle power modes you can't read anything. In my case it allowed me to cycle OFF>ACC>IG and would let me start the engine, but engine would stall right away (IS250 auto).

It may turn out into boring task of checking all the fuses.

I assume you tried touching key to the start button (if batteries in key are good should not matter, but sometimes every little helps). 

Hard to say, but so far it sounds more like no power to ignition, rather than immobiliser fault. Immobiliser should only prevent engine from starting. Could be smart key module as well, perhaps not recognising the key is inside the car at all... although in that case I would expect it to say "no key detected" on the dash. 

Thanks.

All the fuses have been checked already apparently (not by me).

Press fob to Start button also didn't yield results.

I thought about no power to ignition, but my reasoning is that power condition can't be varifed until the immobiliser fault (transponder really) is out of the equation, which would allow for the power to come in, as I'm not getting an amber light on the button or any other. I also don't get the "key not detected" message. So my opinion is that from the cars current pov, the key just isn't in the car.

Edit: forgot to mention that the dash actually has some life in it, it allows me to cycle through on/off option for disabling that particular security feature, can't remember the name of it unfortunately, there's a dedicated button for it.

My biggest hurdle in deciding whether to mess with this, is that while researching this issue, I've seen many people claiming that Lexues won't allow you to replace individual modules, and that you need to get the full ECU+immo+key+BCM etc. kit. Is this correct, and how did you go about it in your case? Any dealership programming involved?

Forgot to add, even the power seats are working, while the ignition isn't.

38 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

Whole dash has to come off.

I have not tried myself, but I reckon it would be possible to "loosen" the dartboard and fish it out through the went/head unit hole, but at that point you would be 90% there in dash removal. 

Thank you for the prompt reply!

My situation is pretty much the same as throughout the thread, the car has been left to sit for a while and now doesn't want to even turn the accessories on.

Remote locking works, but no lights on the Start button, no matter if the clutch/brake are pressed.

Security light flashing. 

Normal voltage on the Battery.

New batteries  in both fobs.

Not possible to read OBD2 (small floorlight next to it does work though)

Do you think the ID could be the culprit?

Edit: 2006 IS220D

On 4/6/2023 at 6:06 PM, gerdiesel said:

have to admit ive been a mechanic going on 12 years and this one had me stumped, we have grown fond of relying on the scan tool and sometimes the brain just follows a set plan and we dont stop to really asses whats happening. now to move that id box where its easy to reach if i have further issues

Hi, could you please tell me if this was accessible by just removing the head unit and the vents, or did the whole dashboard had to come off?