spostgate

It is definitely the water pump. I have had exactly the same problem on a (engage shame mode) Triumph TR7. It was actually the jack shaft wearing out the drive to the pump. To answer your earlier question: YES the water pump is the only thing driving the water around your engine (apart from a little thermal circulation i.e. hot water rising through the system).

I wouldn't reccomend driving the car until this problem is sorted out as you will cook the engine.

Hi Guys,

Thanks again..

I did phone the trader up and told him I dont mind spending a little bit on the car (water pump etc) but if its a headgasket problem im going to want him to sort it..He was quite nice about it and said see how you get on and if its major I will sort something out, im gonna get a bit out of him anyway.

I got it for a good price and im a fair person hence my patience and I know when the cars done fully it will be a dream..

I fitted a radiator today brand new and guess what ! the bloody radiator stays COLD, the thermo dont open and the engine gets really hot when touching it(needle stays in middle), the bottom pipe still stays cold and the top pipe gets piping hot, the bottom pipe is cold but you can feel a lot of pressure in the pipe ! Its like theres no circulation (water pump?) and there is a bearing gone on one of the pulleys so which pulley is the water pump behind ? fan pulley ?

Chips I tried the trick you suggested and theres not much movement in the water when reving the engine !

What pushes the water around the system ? does the water pump just aid the circulation or is it the sole contributor of the circulation ?

My mechanic cant look at it for a while he's very busy hence why im trying to find answers in the meantime, and I dont trust the other cowboys.

PS: Anyone looking for a rad PM me I will get you in touch with someone, its the least I can do for your contributions.

←

could be an airlock i've had pretty much that effect in another car but must admit it did overheat too. I have found with the waterpumps i have had go on me they leak before they stop working altogether and have you seen about filling the radiator up with the correct fluid as you shouldn't use just a water antifreeze mix there is a specific toyota fluid and constantly dropping and refilling that could get expensive

←

Does anyone know where I can get polyurethane bushes for the steering rack on my Mk.2 GS300 1999. If not does anyone know exact dimensions so that I can get some made?

If I rock the steering wheel from left to right on My GS300 with 42k miles, I notice that the rack moves on it's mount. It is attached to the chassis via bolts, surrounded by rubber around a metal tube. Is it normal for the rack to move prior to moving the wheels. I believe that the design is to absorb vibration but I think the movement is excessive. Any ideas?

Thanks for all the tips. I'll try getting the alignment done asap. One thing I have found though:- if I get someone to wobble the steering wheel from side to side, the whole steering rack moves on it's mount due to the rubber surrounding the 2 bolts that hold the rack and pinion housing to the chassis. Is this worn rubber surrounding the bolts or is this normal?

I'd concur with the above.

From the trackwork i do in the Caterham - which usually dictates i fiddle with the suspension geometry, there are 3 factors that will influence tramlining and steering response on a car:

Toe

Tyre type

tyre pressures

pretty much in that order. Toe adjustment both positive to negative can affect the cars turn-in and straight-line stability, certain tyre types can be more suceptible to tramlining and under-inflated tyres can induce a more sluggish steering response.

I would imagine the front castor and camber are not readily adjustable on a Lexus so it's most likely to be toe. I'd certainly get a second opinion on the tracking setup, preferably as part of a 4-wheel laser-alignment.

Hope this helps.

←

My recently purchased Lexus GS300 Mk2 with 40k miles has what can only be described as twitchy steering. I've had the discs replaced on the front and all wheels balanced and the tracking checked but still it twitches. It seems to require a lot more input than I have ever experienced on any other car just to stay in a straight line. The input required isn't excessive it's just a bit irritating. I notice it more around 60-70 mph. Is there anyone who has had this problem and found a solution. Could it be ball joints?