cyborgguy

ummm u tell me....

Well mine would never drop below half way when pushing it on,only when idling or cruising on light throttle.

So I guess I'm telling you it's worryingly low!

Is it me or is your oil pressure worryingly low considering the revs and speed involved??

Thanks Mat,

I was wondering(hoping!) because there appears to be one in the diagram on TOYOTA EPC but there wasn't on the car....

On a Front shock absorber there are 4 visible bolts in the engine bay.

3 are mounting nuts for the top mount itself,the 4th is the strut piston top nut.

My question,is there a nut on the piston under the top mount as well as the one on top of it?

Reason I'm asking is I have a knocking that I have narrowed down to the top mount area.

Thanks

I'll take them if you're throwing them away if thats OK!

Il throw theses away then

- remove that plug that closes the flap on the RS200 front intake at less than 4750 rpm.

Someone explain this for me..........why is it there in the first place and what way does the car respond afterwards....

cheers

The Flap allows extra air into the engine above 4750 rpm.

It is closed below this as the extra air is not required.

Disabling it will have no positive affect on performance (may even slow air intake velocity @ low rpm)

It will make it sound a little louder though!

I recon if toyota spent so much on such a complicated intake system it is best left alone as I doubt you will improve performance over the entire rev range by altering it.

What manifold did you put on and have you tested it out yet?

thank for the response guys

well a new manifold just gone on today :D so there be no probs there

so the is and rs have the same centre section then

may have to do a bit of investigating with the link that you posted cyborgguy

thanks very much

just came across this

ALTEZZA SPORT INTERMEDIATE CENTRE PIPE (63.00mm)

http://www.akamoto.co.uk/exhausts-lexus.asp

might be what you're looking for.........

I dont know how but It's a different part number from toyota

There is 1 for an is200 on ebay but the coil pack is different on the altezza.......

I don't think it is. How is it different?

I got the mid pipe with resonator and the exhaust back box from a regular is200

(1) cut the flange off the back box and throw the back box away :D

(2) cut the mid pipe in 2 holding on to the piece with the resonator.

(3) weld a straight pipe from the resonator to the flange fom the back box and now you have a perfect fit altezza de-cat pipe.

I noticed an excellent gain from 1 -4k rpm and it got rid of the annoying flat spot @3500rpm.

Excellent mod for the cost.

There is 1 for an is200 on eBay but the coil pack is different on the altezza.......

Hang on - I thought I saw one one eBay the other day for a fiver...

Let me check...

Thanks again for your help just shelled out on Strut Brace and that sorted out my confusion :) will have to get some anti roll bars next.

Thank you Gents, I'll try and source the Blue Hylomar stuff

I am replacing the sump on my RS200 and need to know what to use as a gasket sealant?

It looks like a type of grey silicone and is rubbery like silicone.

Anyone know what it is and where it can be got?

@Robin H,

Did you get a printout of hp/torque ,

I'd love to see the results for the RS200

would like to see if they all have the characteristic drop in torque @3600rpm.....

Well it was a bit last minute but I headed up to janspeed to see Zee, as needed to pick some bit's up

Once got there was introduced to new and familiar face (thanks Zee)

and had a good old chat with Ahmet about car pc's 

loved the tour round Janspeed most intresting indeeed

also enjoyed seeing the cars on the rollers

my results

153.71 atrw

the only way is up

←

As Far as I know the reason that the grill is blanked off in the first place is reduce drag and thereby improve mpg! Is it really worth taking it off to run a few degrees cooler (which also makes an engine less fuel efficient).......

Thanks Realspeed.

Spark plugs have been changed - no difference

and because the vibration happens when the car is stationary I guess that narrows it down to weak/damaged engine mounts rather than wheel tyre problems.

Anyone ever changed their engine mounts? cost ?difficulty?

To the best of my Knowledge the causes of vibration could be due to

A  Weak engine mount ( Vibration at certain speed of engine whilst stationary)

    Rubber mountings need checking and/or replacing

     

B  Wheel out of balance

C  A tyre being slightly oval in shape ( try changing each wheel in turn to

    see if this is the cause)

D  A flat spot on the tyre

 

      Other causes for cars with ht leads plugs distributers for general interest

Strange as it may seem there could be a possibility that a spark plug is breaking down. I have had this on another car, and whilst ticking over everything seems ok, but even a slight hairline crack, maybe undetectable to the eye could under certain pressure, ie revs,  short to earth although when tested seems ok

  Most HT leads are carbon fibre with copper pins stuck in the end, faults do occur here as well ,I had a mini some years ago and it kept missing under pressure, drove me mad trying to find out why it kept missing, eventually traced it down to burnt out carbon fibre where the pin is stuck into it.

Distributor caps are notorious for cracking or the rotor needing replacing or even the low tension lead faulty ( bad contact)

May be worth the garage looking into plugs and leads as well as a missed spark could result in what you are experiencing.

Realspeed

Hope this may be of some help

←

My Mate has the same problem with his beams altezza .When the engine is ticking over at around 700 RPM there is no vibration, but when the A/C kicks in the revs increase to just below 1000 and the vibration arrives causing the steering wheel to shake.There is no vibration after 1000rmp. Can anyone advise?

I haven't tried this yet ,I guess there is no easy way to do this without opening up the switch controls unless you know which are the wires coming out the back of the unit?

PS.Thanks for your speedy reply!

Have you tried taking the controls out and shorting the connector to see if the wire is still continouse from the control to the relay... that would prove if it is the switch that has gone faulty or not.  The light comming on is usualy a seperate "way" on the switch.

←

My Aircon is not working :( The light on the switch works but it isn't kicking in.

I have checked the fuse in the drivers footwell and it is fine ,I have checked the relay in the engine bay and it is fine. Shorting out the relay terminals kicks in the aircon and it is operational so the problem is an electrical one. between the aircon switch and the relay....

Anyone got an idea of what could be wrong?

Is there a self diagnostic procedure?

you can blank off the Airpipe, it only works a flap for varible tract in the airbox.....

Anyone know how that variable tract on the inlet to the airbox works or what it's there for,seems to be continually closed in mine?