KnightUnit

I drive my lexus until the needle is half way down the "E" but if you try it, you do so at your own risk :)

I can get about 45 miles when the low fuel light is on.

Get a clay bar kit something like Meguiars Smooth Paint Surface clay Bar Kit, followed by Super Resin Polish then buff and follow with Collinite 476. Good shine and will last you about 3 - 6 months protection.

Super resin polish on its own wont last long protection wise.

If you want to get into it, have a look at www.detailingworld.co.uk

Go for Kumho KU31 Sport Tyres, £270 for four fitted, good reviews. had 30k out of each set.

yeah but i can sit back and smile knowing the following facts

i own the company name, the company website, half the company assets, the partner doesnt drive so no way of doing the work and to hire me and my knowledge and my driving license i think my requested amount has just trippled lol

Take what you think is a good deal. Then start up another company doing the same work,keep all your old customers.

Then put him out of buisness

I agree with this, if its a format that works for a company. get a good price for your share, set up with no debts and build the company how you want too for yourself.

Not just IS200's dropping all big engined (petrol) cars are going the same way.

We are being forced into 1.4 or smaller engined cars (through VED tax changes, petrol costs/rises, congestion charging and now the credit crunch)

I say if you can afford to run your IS200 then run it, when it becomes uneconmical to run (eg: MOT failure), then bin it- that's my plan.

Look at it this way- OK I admit the IS200 has higher than average running costs (fuel, tax- if you have a post 1st March 2001 car, insurance etc), but at least it is a reliable car, you are not forking out on massive repairs bills. The only time I see my local garage is twice a year- service time and when I need an MOT, if I had a similar aged Ford/Vauxhall/BMW/Merc (my IS200 is almost 8 years old now), I'd be on first name terms with my local garage by now.

In fact, I do most things myself now, such as oil/oil filter changes, changing sparks, changing brake pads etc- so I'm saving even more money by doing simple jobs like these myself.

I agree you with you Kam I see my IS as cheap motoring, do the services myself which is about £30-50 a pop every 10k miles. MOT £40 a year, tyres every 30k. Although it may drink fuel a bit more its one of the cheapest cars I have run, and the IS has the biggest engine out of the cars I have owned. Had it five years now with 140k on the clock, not worth changing as nothing touches its reliability. Any other car sure I would have had some big bills by now.

Ball Joints should do about 100k miles

I run Kumho KU31's sport tyres, got 30k out of each set. Current rears are on 34k miles, but now on the legal limit. Im getting a set of these again, good grip in wet and dry aswell.

These were £275 for four fitted.

It's not one of them light wheels, like the ones in America where the wheel has a set of lights and as it spins shows an image you choose from a laptop computer is it lol?

haha I havent seen those before B)

Any pics mates? sounds good. would like to see these wheels.

Yes that was me, its a very good Oil Motul 8100 Emax Ester based fully synthetic 5w-30. It will keep its properties better than hydrocracked oils, especially if your doing the 10k service intervals.

What's wrong with going to a tyre depot and getting one of their oil and filter changes for under £30? Fully synthetic at that. Genuine question, so genuine answers only please B)

Same with most things in life, you get what you pay for. Probably will be a cheap oil they use, im sure its fine for the job thought.

But I have noticed a improvement in top end revs and smoothness when switching to a quality oil such as the Motul 8100 Ester Synthetic Oils.

Nice, like the rear lights

Motul, Fuchs Silkolene are the better brands.

Synthetic motor oils damage seals:

Complete Nonsense! Any oil seals made after 1975 or thereabouts will be entirely compatible with any type of synthetic engine oil. (The same goes for synthetic gear oils and transmission oil seals.) It must be understood that everything associated with lubrication is thoroughly tested. The major oil manufacturers do not make oils that attack seals; seal manufacturers ensure that their products function correctly with modern lubricants.

I use Motul 8100 Emax Ester based fully synthetic 5w-30, very good oil, one of the very few true ester based fully synthetic oils. Can tell the difference over the old magnatic I used to use, the engine pulls better at low end rev range and runs smoother.

Got it from Opie Oils online.

My IS200 also has 140k on the clock.

Correct, No haynes manual.

If your looking for something similar this may help http://www.bahamutcars.com/workshop/IS_98-05/index.html

Nice work

It has been gone through before, prices are going to drop a fair bit. its good for me as my car is pre 2001 and can pick up a bargin next year :)

has anyone seen these up close fitted? seen them on ebay but was not sure how they would look on the car.

Tacky if you ask me, just copying an Audi.

for CDR, its depends on the brand and quality of the disc funnily enough, stay away from cheap brand CDR's. Using quality ones made a difference to me and fixed any issue using copied discs.

Its good in traffic if you have a manual, helps smooth pull away if stop starting alot. Mainly what I use it for.

Any body have an opinion of the pirelli's? I have them now but have nothing to compare them to.

Ps. Thanks again for all your replies.

Greedy your local to me, try Pro Tyre in Poole, very good and cheap prices. I may even be off down there tomorrow to get a new set of Kumho's

Im on my third set of Kumho KU31's. Got 30k each out of past 2 sets, £270 for four fitted. Get good reviews online aswell.

Not sure how I let it run down so far but this is how my fuel gauge looked when I started my car earlier today..........not actually sure how empty it was as I was in a rush so just stuck £10 worth of fuel in and went, but I've never had the needle that low before.

Not really sure which is more alarming though, the amount of fuel in the tank, or the number of miles I've done on that tank!

your ok there, you have until the needle reaches half way down the E

I normally run it down till the needle sits on the stop. Or when the car starts to cut power, then its time to fill up. Had it a few times when its ran out as I pull into the fore court, just role upto the pump and put the handbrake on. Can never be a*sed to stop and fill up with petrol unless I have too, got better things to be doing :)