ianhu

13 minutes ago, Phooey said:

Hi all,  I have been told I need a front disc and pad change as a result of my last service on my 2017 is300h.  They have given me a quote of £520.  I know that I can buy the parts and do it myself if they are traditional wheel off, calliper off, screw out, disc replace and calliper back on with new pads in.  Is it going to be this way or is there something weird about this that needs £520 Lexus to do.  TIA.

It's exactly what you stated. 30 to 45 mins per side all things equal. You might need too to wind the caliper piston back in but other than that straight forward. 

52 minutes ago, waquidvp said:

Small update on my experience so far:

TLDR; If you use JPN spec parts, mainly the DSU, your max speed will be capped at 73 MPH. If this is a problem for you, use NA (North America) or EU spec parts.

Most things have worked very well, however I noticed that the max speed you can set is capped at 73 MPH. After doing some research, this seemed to be a limit set on JDM cars due to local rules. This made sense, since the DSU that I had fitted was Japan spec. First I thought that resetting the DSU to it's virgin state would resolve the issue, however that didn't seem to fix it. What I ended up doing was writing the NA (North America) spec data onto the DSU, I got this from the screenshot posted by @SPC. I also had to swap the radar to an NA spec one, but I already had one spare from my previous attempts to get this working. Ideally, I would get EU spec parts, but I haven't found any EU spec radars on the market so I have had to result to either JPN or NA parts.

On another note: @ianhu I will get back to you with those part numbers as soon as I get some time on my hand to do the research.

I actually found a site selling most if not all the components and I put the order in. Days later they marked the radar not available, harness not available. They were about to send the rest of the part like screws and bracket etc which I promptly cancelled explaining there's little point when the main bit were all missing.

 So back to square one. No parts. Apart from steering wheel with the correct buttons on.

Thanks for the help though that is much appreciated. I dm'd you my VIN

Regards

Ian

Hi.

I did have an email swap with some UK chap selling comma 3 and he even offered to 'try it's on my car if I drove to him.

"I had my Octavia retrofitted with Lane assist only to find out I didn’t need to as I could’ve reprogrammed my car!

Good luck with your car. 

For me, the Comma 3 has been the best thing for long journeys making the drives less tiring."

Interesting because that's suggests it didn't use LKA. But since the Comma (from the videos I've seen) plugs into the forward facing camera for power etc it difficult to say for sure it isn't using some aspect offered by the car, besides the steering you have pointed out already.

Yes I'll DM you my Vin. I'd be interested what you have. I had a front radar never fitted but nothing else.

Just now, ianhu said:

Hi Waquidvp

Read your earlier post with great interest and followed your progress. Having almost the same car I am equally instrested in adding this. I believe (but might be wrong) that the UK version of your car is the is300h which is what I have. 

Being and IT techy and always tinkering with something I am keen to understand if I could do this to my car - but I have to say my starting point came about because I was looking in Comma 3 self driving which needs radar etc. 

Ian

 

just noticed your location say Cambridgeshire so might the cars are different

Hi Waquidvp

Read your earlier post with great interest and followed your progress. Having almost the same car I am equally instrested in adding this. I believe (but might be wrong) that the UK version of your car is the is300h which is what I have. 

Being and IT techy and always tinkering with something I am keen to understand if I could do this to my car - but I have to say my starting point came about because I was looking in Comma 3 self driving which needs radar etc. 

Ian

The stock stereo is decent. Not as good as Mark Levinson, unless yours has that.

I've had my is300h for 6 years now. I contemplated upgrading to a more beefy 450 bhp version but then decided against it since I wouldnt get the best out of it on my short commutes. Instead I decided to do a number or things and one of them was upgrade the stereo/ nav setup.

I bought a 10.2 inch screen with built in Android 13. The screen comes with a wire harness to piggy back the stock stereo. You may be fully aware of android options Available. The benefit is having the old stock radio and nav but complimented with the newer bigger screen, android auto, waze sat nav or Google maps and voice commands etc. it's great to say 'hey Google, play 80's music' or radio station and it's streamed from Spotify. 

The next plan is fitting a ghost immobiliser 

Ian

2 minutes ago, Johnlex said:

My key is brand new not used 

48 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

Well that is your problem right here... Techstream can't programme used keys, it can only program "virgin keys"... so the reason you need proper dealership computer is not to register the key, it is to actually re-set it. Now according to dealers - they can't do it either (even if they actually can), so they will always offer you a new key for £600. Key being ~£450 and the rest for the programming. They as well won't program the key you bright in.

Contact any car lock-smiths, they will be able to program key for you (they basically have more potent version of software which can reset the used keys), but it won't be much cheaper... I reckon £80 if you lucky, but many will ask for £150. The only difference is that they will be quite happy to take key you already have and won't force you to buy brand new one for £450. 

1 hour ago, Johnlex said:

I’m never buying tech stream or the cables as not trusted tried with tpms once never worked waste of 

You need to look up reseeding. Which is how you reprogram an already programmed key. 

Not too hard to find how I suspect.

I did mine (yeah...from an already programmed key off eBay and my own original key, reprogrammed both at the same time the reseed was done.)  it was the only way. 

Please bare in mind the 'eBay sold techstream and supplied cable' cannot.code you a new key. You need a proper Vcx cable for that. I know from experience. Bought a used key off eBay tried and tried and failed and failed. Got proper cable and coded first time. 

Others may have had similar or success with the cut down cheaper cable and it would be interesting to know. 

Regards 

3 minutes ago, Las Palmas said:

Or maybe just have new batteries in them if they are OEM from Lexus.

Agreed! 

I had this. Turns out the non genius lexus tpms unit in one of the wheels was to blame. Changed it for original lexus one and light never come back on. 

Get the tpms checked to see if they are all genuine. If not change the one or ones that are not genuine 

So glad your car is same as mine and in white also. Those red calipers look good. Made me make my mind up about doing mine. 

Good job! 

Don't know if this helps.. But.... 

I have a fsport with the same moving clock. I had an issue with stuck milage on the odometer and had to correct the issue. Through my attempts of flashing hex code onto the IC on the odometer did invoke the condition your seeing “lda and vcs". 

Realisinf this flashing the correct file onto the IC got rid of those issues. The difference here though is your putting a clock not designed for that car in it and perhaps expecting it to be ok. I would seem some tweaking of the hex code needs to be done on the clock... But... Bare in mind when I cured mine the clock I cured it on was meant for the car it is in.

Basically the F clock seems to be getting a signal from the car it can't deal with and throwing those errors on the dash. I'm not sure they are fully exchangeable but seems perhaps not. 

I did repair my cluster on my is300h f sport but the cluster was the original. I fixed the stuck odometer by reprogramming a new IC and surface mounting it to the board in place of the old/broken one. 

I have since been tracked down from other lexus forums and repaired another f sport cluster with the exact same issue. Very strange fault to occur. My attempts with lexus were totally fruitless since they just wanted to sell me a new fitted cluster. Hmm I think not. So I set to read up and did the job myself. 

Ian

4 years in Steve with my second hand is300h F sport. No issues with hybrid system or Battery yet. Touch wood. 

Cetainly the best car I have had. Would love something like rc-f but don't think I can justify it to myself. 

Ian

6 minutes ago, ianhu said:

Hi. 

I once had similar situation. Unfortunately for me the men at said garage treat all wheels and tyres and tpms as one and tried to tell me the car will learn the new tpms sensor they had replaced "just drive it around and it will sort itself out". Yeah right, after a week still had indicator on dash so I know how annoying it is. I also now know they had sh*t for brains. If they had used their brains they could have picked the phone up where lexus would have told them any new tpms needs coding to the car. Usually done with teachsteam. (Btw that's not the amazon cheapo job, reason being is that the software works but the cable has some connections disabled. Buying proper cable costing £70 got all working.) Anyway I got said garage to give me all four tmps id's and I programmed them into techstream. Since then no tpms light in a year. 

Lesson learnt. Don't use garages that just shift tyres and nowt else. 

I hope lexus has made their newer cars learn the damn things. Certainly my is300h 2014 didn't 

Hi. 

I once had similar situation. Unfortunately for me the men at said garage treat all wheels and tyres and tpms as one and tried to tell me the car will learn the new tpms sensor they had replaced "just drive it around and it will sort itself out". Yeah right, after a week still had indicator on dash so I know how annoying it is. I also now know they had sh*t for brains. If they had used their brains they could have picked the phone up where lexus would have told them any new tpms needs coding to the car. Usually done with teachsteam. (Btw that's not the amazon cheapo job, reason being is that the software works but the cable has some connections disabled. Buying proper cable costing £70 got all working.) Anyway I got said garage to give me all four tmps id's and I programmed them into techstream. Since then no tpms light in a year. 

Lesson learnt. Don't use garages that just shift tyres and nowt else. 

I used to have to use redex in my is220d. That was due to the phenomenon known as white smoke intermittely occurring after the car had surpassed 100,000 miles. Strange that lexus couldn't and wouldn't fix it. 

Not used redex in my is300h but interested to see what others think. Also has anyone an opinion on tuning/mapping this car. Seems its stayed well clear of from the remaplers. If it has a petrol engine when the hybrid isn't running, why is it stayed clear or? Sorry not trying to change the subject. 

V5? What for the vin? 

Did the app work with the car? 

Hi

What I did wasn't a real lot to be honest. The milage wasn't clocking up as it should. I deciphered the code locations of mileage, of which there are two, one for the displayed mileage and another with the incremented figure ready to be moved to the displayed location and rinse repeat. Anyway short of sorting that correctly and then flashing it back to the IC, and fit/test was about it. 

Interestingly, my two code locations had the same figure in then, hence it not clocking up. The pusle was certainly there to make the increment but I think because locations A and B contained the same hex figures for the displayed and new mileage I guess the unit froze on what to do. The bigger question is why did it get like that, why did I find some other person with the same issue in the same mileage approx area, and why do I now have a guy who's contacted me with the self and same issue with his f sport. No coincidence me thinks. 

Anyway.. certainly the logic to move the dial etc will be contained on the code in perhaps another IC involved in moving the display as well as moving the motor etc.  

My best guess is that power rails etc the data rails are most likely also the same fed to the clock and the clock is responsible for dealing with them. My best guess (and it is just that) is that they are likely interchangeable, but rightly as others have said you still need the buttons on the wheel to actuate the moving display. 

The simplest test is both cars together and do a swap to see.  Short of that I wouldn't shell out anything personally. 

1 minute ago, steveo1973 said:

Hi people,

I am new to the club and new to Lexus. I have just bought my 2015 Is300h with 50k and loving it. Its in Pearl white, Executive Addition and only one previous owner being an leased with Full Lexus Service history.

My question is when I drive off on full to 3/4 lock to the left I sometimes experience a knock coming from the passenger front. This doesn't happen on all road services and in general drives perfectly with no knocks or rattles. Its like its skipping a bit from grip. Does not do this to the right or in reverse. I still have 3 months warranty left but the garage I bought it from are quite a distance away. Is this a problem or the nature of the car. Thanks

My fsport does exactly the same and has done for the last 3 years I've had it. I can't remember what side it does it but it's not the same on both. Usually that's a cv join issue but who knows. I hardly ever full lock steer it so it's rare. 

Ian. 

Hi there. 

Calibration files are essentially ecu updates. With techstream (if you have it) can be applied to the car using the correct process. 

Regards

Ian 

Hi.

I didnt try to fit a fsport dash from one mk to a different mk. I bought the car and the odometer was stuck at 55k miles. I couldnt live with that. 

I desoldered the IC and flashed it. 

Worked after a few different attemlts

Ian

Hi.

How did ya get on with this?

Ian

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Yes I too connected a zif IC socket and lead and soldered it to the back on the pads of the board.

It allowed me to put the clock back in place but easily flash the IC by removing it and then replacing it.

Very useful when testing.

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