baysidebluebnr34

maybe you could take your digital camera along with you>

I did take some pic but are not sure how to upload them

Hi Everyone,

I have had my Lexus IS200 for 18 mths now, it has been a nice car so far. Yesterday when driving I started to hear a water sound coming from the dash, then sure enough the smell of radiator water. Doing the right thing I stoped by a car shop to have a qoute, needless to say $$$$ouch just for the labour. I was once in the auto trade myself and wasn't happy to be screwed, so DIY.

I looked online but found little info on how to change it, and the info I did find told of stories of having to remove the dash etc. NOT TRUE!!

It took me 5 mins to remove and 45 mins to install. Here is how you do it:

Tools required:

phillps head screw driver

Torch or some form of light

Pliers

Hacksaw

Hose the same dia as the heater hose

4 hose clamps

Proceedure:

Removal

1. In the engine bay, Losen/remove both hose clamps on heater hoses.

2. Disconnect Both heater hoses (if they are stuck on try to twist them).

3. In the cabin, Remove the pannel below the stering wheel (three screws), then dissconnect fog lights, dimmer, air temp senor and unlatch bonnet cable.

4. Remove the 3 screws (these hold the heater and the heater pipes in place).

5. Slide the heater out, as it is broken anyway just yank the pipes out, they will bend very easy.

note: you may want to have some rages on hand to catch any water that comes out of the matrix or pipes.

Install

1. On the new Matrix, cut the frist pipe (higher pipe on matrix). Make the cut in beetween the two mounting positions on the straight section. Be gentle and take your time.

2. On the new Matrix, cut the second pipe (lower pipe on matrix). Make the cut before the mounting position on the straight section. Be gentle and take your time.

3. Cut two lenghts of hose and install both on the matrix side of the pipe. Be gentle when installing.

4. Place losely two hose clamps on each hose, fasten the clamp close to the matrix. Keep in mind the positioning of the clamps for easy access later.

5. Gently side the matrix into place. You may need to rotate the pipes to clear everthing for a smooth entry.

6. Once in place, re-latch (screw up) the frist mount and tighten.

7. Starting with the lower pipe (it goes throught the top hole in the firewall), once though the top hole insert it into the hose to connect it to the matrix.

8. Once in the right position tighten both mount for that pipe and also second hose clamp.

9. repeat above step but though the lower hole in the firewall.

10. In the engine bay, reconnect hoses and hose clamps.

11. Top up water.

12. In cabin, re-install pannel below steering wheel.

13. Start car, top up water again

Note: it is allways a good Idea to check no water is leaking from the re-installed pipes and matrix

Done.

Hi Guys/Girls

how the heck do I change the bulb on the drivers side? Just tried for about 20 minutes in poring rain and had enough....can anyone help please ? PS Its a 1996 model.

Do you mean the front light in the haed light *****, or on the fender?

Don't do it in the rain!!! this only adds to the fustration!! Who the hell Designed this!!!

Once you start with the mods mate you can never stop

Think you sould go for a sports grill next mate

Why a sports grill......... I would go for a 2JZ twin turbo hahaha. But I i live in Hong Kong, no where for the speed haha.

Could be an easy swap

I am going to try to hook up the new head unit using the existing amp, wish me luck.

Ibby, if you can use the orignal wirring it would be better and save alot of time.

I just had a look at the pics in http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/ind...showtopic=52362 now it is alot clear, The Amp bypass lead does bypass the amp, I remember reading in somone post that it doesn't bypass the amp only the "air" inbetween the amp and the head unit. but what this lead does is just takes the speaker connections from the amp. the outputs from your headunit run dirrectly to the speakers and not through the amp.

Correct me if I am wrong

does any one have some close up pictures of the "by pass cable?"

is your time and effort really worth saving 23 quid. also if you go with rabstars method, what you gona do if/when you sell the car and have to return back to stock.

I live in hong kong, most poeple when selling their car leave it as is, I not talking about a full custom install, just a new head unit.

If I can soilder it into the existing harness it shouldn't take to long, It is just a matter of knowing how the speaker wires connect on the "bypass cable"- Most aftermarket head units have a +ive and a -tive for each speaker, while with the standard only seems to have +ive imputs, and a shared earth

If i can find an easy way I will post it up!! save any wasting money on the lead, if it is not nessasary

on the lead, how do the speaker wires join? do all of the -tive go to a single wire? and if so dose the cable use doides. I have the Radio and amp wirring daigram, my question is, the Amp & Radio has only four wires for speakers and what looks like a shared ground wire. So, if I connected all four of the +tive speaker wires to the correct channel wire (on the amp) and the connect all of the -tive speaker wires to the shared ground, would this work?

OK well i might be able to help as i did actually make my own one back in 2006 before they were made and distibuted by another company, it is reletivly simple to there is a quick root, if you have the existing AMP still assuming you do

Open the AMP up unsolder the big connector block as this is the one that conects to the speakers inside the car, i think from memmory that each pin is marked on the PCB so you can make a note here and remove the pins you dont need the only additional thing you may want to do it piggy back the rear speaker wires on to the WOOFER wires on this connector as you can imagine standard headunits out put front and rear at speaker level but no sub i do have the wiring list at home in a file so i can tell you which wires go where later if this will help

as you have the wiring diagram already you might get this done before i get a chance to open up my black book

That would be great

on the lead, how do the speaker wires join? do all of the -tive go to a single wire? and if so dose the cable use doides. I have the Radio and amp wirring daigram, my question is, the Amp & Radio has only four wires for speakers and what looks like a shared ground wire. So, if I connected all four of the +tive speaker wires to the correct channel wire (on the amp) and the connect all of the -tive speaker wires to the shared ground, would this work?

much easier to buy the guaranteed to work bypass lead from E-bay Item number: 280269933796 IMO

True it is more easy, but it is Cheaper to make one. If you are ok with a solidering ion it shoudn't be to hard. has any one had a close look at the item on eBay?, or even better dose anyone have one they can make a diagram of?

I have searched, but I have no found a clear answer. best answer so far was:

http://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/ind...cable&st=20

Instead of using pre amp out's can you use the speaker wires (+ive) to connect? and the connect all of the speaker wire (-ive) to the brown wire?

Mine is a 2002, so the wirring is differant again

can any one give me a diagram of their Amp bypass cable.

I want to make my own. don't mind solidering my wires in.

Thanks, I am sure this will help alot of poeple

Ok, if I get a headunit, is there any point of running it though the IS200 amp or should I just get the speaker wires from the amp?

how many watts is the standard amp on the is200?

speaking of useless buttons, why bother putting TRC on a car with a lack of power. I guess we all like pushing buttons hahaha

Bp Ultimate is refined to 98 ron while Shell has additives to bring it up to the same level

I would have to agree, It is an olds man car.

I am 29, what people think doesn't matter, it is what you want. I think the IS200 is great, for what it is.

It is not the fastest thing out there, but it still goes ok. It is very smooth, quiet, sporty looking, handles well.

The reason it is underpowered is because if it had more ponies under the hood we would all be getting speeding tickets. haha

Still it has enough grunts, for me anyway. My last car was an R34 GTR (Nissan Skyline) it was a great car, but I have not been a bit disappointed in the Lexus IS200. Yes, not as fast, but the Lexus is a great car.

To me is, the reason why your friends think that this is an "old mans car" is simple.

It is a combination of:

a. These people are not refined enough to enjoy the Lexus

b. They are jealous and not envious.

c. They have never been in one is the IS range of Lexus, so they can't understand the quality of the car

Or

They have Sh%&t in there F*&ked up heads

No offense to anyone.

trying to fit a new alarm but cant find which wire to go for the central locking, i have look through the wiring diagram but still dont know which colour and where ( before or after the relay).

see:

have a look here does your alarm c/l switch to ground or postive?

you can get the wire here on the Power window switch (6, red(unlock) and 15, red black (lock)) or if you look at the diagram you can find the wires on the BCU (body control unit) save you having wirring everwhere.

Most factory C/locking is ground switching, meaning when you supply -ive (ground) to the correct wire the look will operate.

hope this helps

Thanks for your help, but is there any difference between Altezza and IS200.

are you from HK or you are currently in HK...

I live in Hong Kong.

What model and year and RHD or LHD is yours, they could be, but need to check, the wire to the window (driver side) should be the same, just pull it off and have a look, that is the best way.

trying to fit a new alarm but cant find which wire to go for the central locking, i have look through the wiring diagram but still dont know which colour and where ( before or after the relay).

see:

have a look here does your alarm c/l switch to ground or postive?

you can get the wire here on the Power window switch (6, red(unlock) and 15, red black (lock)) or if you look at the diagram you can find the wires on the BCU (body control unit) save you having wirring everwhere.

Most factory C/locking is ground switching, meaning when you supply -ive (ground) to the correct wire the look will operate.

hope this helps

The tinted windows of the is200 sport its the glass that is tinted

Like mt man daz say's the is200 sport has glass tinted windows...not film

the answer=

On glass, (tint in the glass or no tint)- use a window cleanier, if possible use a mircofiber cloth

On tint Film- use window cleaner diluted with 50% water, if possible use a mircofiber cloth

Hi,

Right, 'Error 1' message comes up on a top loading 6 disc changer model head unit and i am wondering is it goosed or can i repair it?

Yeah I got the same prob, I belive it is when it can't read the disc, it happen most of the time when i have a cd-r in, but sometimes it plays the rd-r. And on normally discs it skips alot. I call it the C.P.W.A (cd player with addiuted)

Thinking about buying an aftermarket one, (double din with dvd/tv) to replace it. what is the deal with the factory amp but? can you still use this?

MY headlights on 02 IS200 don't work. I have checked all fuses, and the relay. what to do, the switch is working but the lights don't! Hi beam only work when you pull the stick forward, parking lights working, and fog lights. The rear fog lights don't work too as well as the headlight level adjustment.

I have been staring at the wirring diagram but can't see where the problem should be.

I have changed the light bulbs

Problem FIX!!!

It was the plug going into the Rear fog light switch!!

any pics of which plug,im suffering from the same problem

It was the plug on the Rear fog light switch, near ignition

Have a look at the Rear fog light switch, this fixed my problem with the headlights