juliangungho

I know this has been dragged to death but help please. I have been looking for WIM geo settings ref all the tracking specs. My misses 01 is200 sport has killed her front tyres and well its time for renewal so if some one can post me the links or send me a pm with the specs that be really greatful. thanks Jules

if I had this problem in my car I would be think hot/cold start valve or idle valve or worst case tps sensor screwed or come to think of it air leak. I spent long time going thru the "search" last nite and nothing shows up sigh. I checked coolant levels, and everything else , misses is is getting annoyed as she had to leave the car running for 10 mons this morning before she could drive off.

just been out to check the carpet in the car and thats fine so I am still up for any ideas

will have a look when I get home but would this not happen all the time?? Reason I ask is that once the car s is warmed up it drives perfectly with no glitches at all.

Car is serviced and when the car warms up is running perfectly. Wot do you mean by the "carpet" gents

when engine is hot and warmed up she will sit at normal revs all day (under a 1k) I am possibly thing throttle sensor, any ideas anyone . misses is due soon (baby) and I need the car in tip top condition. cheers

The car will tick over normally on choke/idle on start up which is about normal but when you pull away and change gear the revs go up to about 3-5 k !!!! and stay there. You have to use brakes to bring it back down! not good but as I said no management light is on and drives fine when hot. Thanks Julian

Hi all, Got a problem with my misses is200 sport which is starting to become very annoying. On COLD mornings the car starts as usual but when you go to pull away the car will over rev and hold it self at high revs. The only way to bring it down is to dump the clutch slightly so as to force it bak down which is really bothering the other half. When the car is nice and warm all is perfect and drives as it should all day long. I have taken the throttle boddy off (pain that was) and thoughly cleaned it with brake cleaner inside and out and it hasnt made any difference. I have checked all the componants round the engine bay all appears to be sweat, checked the throttle cable for any snags and nothing either. There is no engine managment being flashed up either so I can only assume there is a mechanical issue . Help any one? I am finking hot cold start valve if there is one on this engine? Many thanks Jules

thanks for comments lads, I liked the sound of the sounder from the is200 so I wanted to retrofit to another car that was all jules

so if its on the instrument cluster can it be detached if you take the cluster out? or would I have to get a cluster and completly take it apart

Ok when you pull the hand brake up you get the internal sounder going off , well where is the sounder situated????? I am after one for a project but I dont know were it is in the dash board Jules

Morning all, Fitted some aftermarket hids to the ladys car last week end 6k versions , much much better lol. Passenger side bulb was an absolute sod to do but got my hands in there in the end.. Slowly have got all the parts done , am guna get the top engine plastics done next as they are in bits ouch. Misses has pointed out that the cd stops quite frequently now especially if you go any bumps in the road so i will be keeping an eye on that and will see. jules

|okay well yours may be a seprate issue but i eventually found the water leeak in the misses car. it was coming in from under the rear window. I had it removed and loads of goo reapplied. Bin bone dru ever since. There were a total of 4 leaks to deal with thou, 2 under the screen and 2 on the boot lip join Anyway as I said boot is completely dry now for the last couple of months, i gave the boot a spray of silver wheel paint and it looks nice and sweet now jules

ok, havn't had much time to check the boot this week as bin busy and we have had a fair bit of rain , so i just poped out to have a look and the boot is bone dry . finally I can stop thinging about the water , yeah got to do a bit of finishing off as regards to sealant but I will do it when dry. Now the misses has turned round and said the handbrake isint that good so will give that ago on the weekend. jules

well a litle play wont do any harm, the other half loves the car so much that she wants to know what i do to her car now , so i dunno if I am going to be able to do a sly one and do some decat work on it lol .

cheers all , lets hope I dont have to use it

Okay, I have just bought my obd2 reader to compliment my tool selection as I like to have the tools at hand when I do any repair work so with the misses permission lol I bought the reader ready for the emergency that may or may not happen. The question I have is there is lots of questtions and answers about the obd2 set up but no one has mentioned were the port is so were is it ???????? I guess its somewere in the car and not the engine bay. Jules

[Found the leak yippee. Rite the rear wind screen was removed yesterday at about 10 , took the gent about an hour overall. I had removed the back seats and parcel shelf, side trims the night before ready as he had to cut from the inside. Once the screen was removed it was evident what was happening and it all became clear. The boot is made up of 4 joins, 2 of the joins are under neath the rear screen and the manufacuting process shows tha when the rear boot is assembled it isint actually waterproof until its dipped primed. When you look at the join carefully the paint has cracked and this allows the water to pass thru the paint and into the boot area just underneath the parcel shelf and along the inside of the channeling then over flows out into the boot. The area was cleaned up and then a shed load of ahesive was put back and the join well covered making sure that adhesive was pressed into the join as well. The screen was then put back and left to set for several hours. God what a releif, I was rite about the screen , so as I said it was left to dry for several hours and then we did the water test. It had appeared that this only fixed half the fault thou, along the top of the quarter panel is another join in the boot lid lip on both sides of the boot. When we poured water over the screen the parcel shelf underneath no longer got wet which is good news as this was were the bulk of the water was coming in but as the water made its way along the top of the boot rubber lip I noticed droplets of water on on side. Closer inspection showed that the join showed a hairline crack in the paint were the two joins meet. I used some sealer and left it for 30 mins and whoa and behold once this set we did the water test again and sorted no more water leaks. SORTED Okay, had a mate of mine turn up who works in a body shop and showed him what happened and after a good hunting thru He agreed that when the car was assembled , the car joins were only sealed by the primer and that the joins were not welded in strategic places to give strength to the boot area. We think and this is only a guess when the boot is slammed shut the paint over time has cracked and this allowed water in slowly and over the years with age the crack get bigger thus more water. This is more appaerant if you look at the following idea. Now if you look in the engine bay and boot the colour is different to the outside of the car , its a base coat only thus there was not enough layers of paint to help do the sealing process. Also looking in the boot area they use seam putty to blend the seams together which in the manufacturing process is normal however they never did the top of the quarter panel or undeneath the screen. It only relying on the paint to do the seal so this is a bit poor really as it high lites that the boot area is poorly manufactured. Okay this brings me to my last issue on the boot. Okay as I mentioned before the the original owners have made attempts to seal with silicon which okay most people would have tried but it didnt work. I exagerated the problem also by removing boot rubber and using more silicon well this has now all got to be removed. I will get a new rubber in the week and strip off the silicon that has been used and what my mate has advised is to seam seal the top of the boot lip area with white/grey tiger seal and blend into the boot lip and smooth down with white spirit as they do in the trade. Once this is dry we will then mask off the quarters and obvious body work and we will then use some paint to dust off the seal to match the rest of the body work. If we do this rite we will not have to use to much paint becauce the effected areas are under the boot rubber and the sides of the quarter which you cannot see when you close the boot lid. Also due to water ingress in the boot there was signs of surface rust so whilst everying was still drying and setting I cleaned the entire boot area/inner quarters and sprayed it silver. Over the top I know but it looks so much better and cleaner than a dull basecoat !!!!!, no more water/rust stains etc . Success at last and hopefully once resealing of the body work is done then I can move onto the next issue with the car. Oh yeah, for the rear windscreen to be removed and fitted cost £50 bargain!!!!!!!!!!!! will keep you updated

Rite, got someone coming out on saturday, they going to rip the rear screen out and rebond it. Hopefully I will be able to take some pics and will keep you advised if it fixes this leak. jules

I just read this , so I have just bought one as well as a back up should anything go wrong. lets hope its as good as they say it is . jules

ok, ripped out the bungs in the rear wells to let the water out and have now also removed the rear boot lining. Okay after pouring the water over the rear windscreen its defo the rear window thats leaking someware. Its more on the passenger side, the water seems to enter the interior and flow down the metal work under the parcel shelf and along the metal work to the top of the quarter panel just under the boot lip. There is a metal extrusion which apears to be a channel and its flow thru that. so I will do some shoping around and see who can reemove it and reseal it for a good price. Will let you know how it pans out and see if it cures this leak jules

okay well havnt been able to do much this week due to work but checked the coolant last nite , it hasnt moved so I am happy and so is most defo the missus. We had a bit of rain so have checked the boot for water and yep water is back in the 2 wells so will drill a small hole in each ove rthe weekend to allow drain off and will hopefully get the chance to check certain areas on the boot for leaks.

Morning all, okay thanks for your reply about the gearbox notcyness, after much reading and searching I will just have to accept that is the way it is. Any way after playing around sunday, I thought I would have a go at sorting out the foglight .It has filled up with water as some time and went green on the lense, not nice. Anyway, I read about heating the glass off so as both the head light and fog light seem to be suffering so I thought I would do the fog first as that would be easily replaceable if I messed up. Any way I got the fog out from the bumper, relatively easy tbh and set about getting my oven ready. Okay its gas, so I put it on a setting of "1" to start the ball rolling. Once the oven was heated I turned it down to "s" "slow" and put the fog light in there and went and had a cuppa and a bite to eat. Okay ten minutes later I got the unit out, gota be careful as its a tad hot. Anjyway I pulled the plastic lens off with a small amount of effort and whilst it was warm I scraped all the glue out and rolled it into a ball. I had to do put the fog light assembley back in the oven a few times as the glue goes hard quite quickly so bit of perseverance and all done, the glue is removed. Any way. I then cleaned up the lens aseembly in the sink easily removing the green mould that was slowly growing at the bootom of the lens. Okay I used and air line to clear all the water off on all the parts and left it in the air to finish drying off. Ok once this was done I put the ball of glue back in the oven for 5 minutes and waited to it went very soft. I removed it and spread it out until after much going back into the oven and more teasing I ended up with a length of glue (string like) that would go round the whole assembly. Okay Waited for the glue to go plyable and then laid it into the lens groove on the main unit and once this was done I put all the plastics back into the oven for 5-10 minutes. The units were then reteived and whilst very hot , I quickly reassembled the assembley and made sure the lens clipped to the main body. I had to give it a hard push thou as it was pushing against the glue via compression. Any way I left it to dry for half an hour and hey presto, all sorted. Now I am good with the old tools and have many years undeerneath me but this is the 1st time I have ever done this and following the guidelines that have been posted I was quite pleased with how easy it was so there we go all done. but I do have one question thou. The fog light lens was slightly discoloured anyway so wasnt sure what impact the heat would do ie would it discolour it even more . The head light however bar the exception of bad condensition is nice and clear , will the heat it discolour thou, thats my worry. Jules

Ok , had a good look, hmm, my question is on the gear box. Am I being so fussy here??????, misses is fine with gear changes, but the gear box feel notchy in all the gears ( to me anyway) I have no trouble selecting gears either up or down either.. Reading thru everyones posts on gear box notcyness , it seems to be some what normal. If this is the case, strange that such a quality motor has this feature, my rover has much softer gear selections so whilst its a general concensus that this is normal its still disappointing. Guess I may just be a fussy sod

Ok update, spent a few hours with my mate today tinkering with misse car whilst she was chilling and I managed to do a few things , some positive and negative. 1. okay power steering belt was loose, it was feeling well wholly, so upon insppection the belt was slipping on lock to lock and when cold. Okay quick tweak of the tensioning of the power steering pump and its fine now so easy fix. 2. Okay yep the rear speakers are sony but I will be honest the sound is good , plenty of clarity and bass. I dint know anyone near me who has a lexus is 200 sport so regreatbly I cannot do a comparison but in all honesty the sound is very good , better that a lot of new cars I have been in so will leave this for time being. 3. Okay, we pulled the boot apart and this isint too good. Okat you have the spare wheel well and then two small wells either side. The spare wheel well is dry as a bone. The wells either side as I said before have water in them I cleaned these out the other nite so as to allow me to see if they fill again. We had a good look around and as I was "in " the boot water was dripping on top of me. Under the parcell shelf , there was drops of water with a slow drip. This would explain why the boot carpet that sits on the spare wheel was damp I guess. Oaky possible the rear window has a leak on the seams were it is bonded to the chasiss. has any one else had this???. Looking else were, there is silicon smeared over the rear lights , just were the plastic touches the chassis. I guess, one of the previous owners had a half hearted attempt to try and cure the leaks but obviously to no avail. Going to have to look into this a bit further tomorrow but will have to wait and see. My mate is going to give me a hand pulling the enitre boot interior out and I get the job of laying inside it whilst he sprinkles the car with water lol. I might be barking up the wrong tree here but i have seen this before so I am finking worst atm. I have another couple of questions but going to have a good old search before I ask. jules