pops

Thanks to people who responded. The carrier has found the part. It only took them 8 days to deliver it from Manchester! *****!

I need a power steering hose for a '94 LS400 in a hurry. The carrier lost the one I ordered. If anybody knows where I could locate one at reasonable cost, I'd be grateful. Thanks.

£20, Dave???? - now you're talking my language - will this completely sort the problem? Thanks to everybody else who replied, too. Personally, I'm no mechanic, in fact I have trouble opening a can much of the time. So I'm going to hand all the info you've given me over to my local garage. Don't go away though. I'll probably be back!!

Thanks for everbody's help. I'll start following all the leads you've provided. The major exhaust leak is the main problem. I had an older model checkup recently at Lexus and there does not appear to be a lifetime guarantee on exhausts. Does anybody have any idea if there is an affordable and not too difficult solution to this problem? I would consider replacing the car for a later model LS 400. On the other hand, I'm reluctant to dump it if it's fixable - and realistically, what am I likely to get for it in its present condition?

I knew that Lexus designed the exhaust to last the lifetime of the car, but I'd be very surprised if they offered a special warranty on exhaust systems outside the normal 3 year warranty given with new cars..I never heard of anything like that during 6 years of LS ownership..

My thanks to everybody here who's helped me before. Now, I'm back again. My treasured '94 LS400 has just failed it's MOT with the following faults. Exhaust system has major leak - cm content at idle [ 7.3.2c]. Exhaust emissions Lambda reading after 2nd fast dle [7. 3. 2b] Also: Rear both sides - trailing arms have excessive play in pin/bush, Plus: one wheel bearing, one lower front suspension ball joint needed Sounds too expensive to me. Any advice other than "push it over the nearest cliff" would be gratefully received. Seriously, I love this car. Is there any way I can rescue it without going into bankrupcy?

I have found somebody who will rebuild alternator. I now need to get work done on power steering unit. Can my local garage be trusted to do this work or do I need a specialist? If so, any recommendations? I'm based in the Midlands.

Thanks again. Will do as you say and post results . Pops

Where can I buy a cheap alternator or get damaged one repaired? Has to be cheap as other problems also urgent if I am to keep my '94 baby on the road.

Thanks for this. However, I've now discovered that the situation is more serious. The power steering unit has leaked into the alternator damaging it. I will need to research lowest cost of replacing both. I believe there is a thread on here about this problem. Thanks again to all who contributed. Pops.

Thanks - I will try this - Pops ← If your battery is more than 3 years old, is most likely week or bad, it is recommended to avoid problems such as the aforementioned, is to replace the battery every 36 months. When you do the above the alternator/charging system should be tested to make sure no other components went in your foray. What is most likely happening, seems that most likely your battery ventured in what I would call, "the gray area." The battery is not really totally bad, nor totally good! Your battery is not keeping enough charge during mortor/charging/operation, then in the morning it recuperates, as part of its reserve and starts the car. They can even be full of battery water. Sometimes when batteries are in this threshold, they even test good in meters, with the results you have. If you have another car, that you know the battery is great exchange it and run the experiment, you probably will see no problem starting and running. If you keep running your car as you are doing you will kill the alternator also, since the battery does not keep enough charge at times. it will make the alternator work harder in fact killing it softly. The click is characteristic of low charge, or in some instances the battery connections bad, and also the starter. I would go first testing the battery with a known good one, cleaning the contacts, and last testing the whole charging starting system. If all of this fails then you have some other bad corroded cable, or bad ground, but this is very remote possibility. Go for the obvious the battery and cleaning its terminals, making sure they are tight and free of corrosion. C. PR ← ← Battery has been checked again with engine running and returns 11.5 to 12 volts. Consensus of opinion at garages is that the alternator is at fault - that even with a faulty battery, it should reach 14 volts. BUT I'm inclined to agree with contributors here that I should try all the simpler options first. I haven't got another battery. If I buy and fit a new one, it seems to me that I can find out that way. Almost certainly needs a new one anyway. Comments appreciated.

Thanks - I will try this - Pops ← If your battery is more than 3 years old, is most likely week or bad, it is recommended to avoid problems such as the aforementioned, is to replace the battery every 36 months. When you do the above the alternator/charging system should be tested to make sure no other components went in your foray. What is most likely happening, seems that most likely your battery ventured in what I would call, "the gray area." The battery is not really totally bad, nor totally good! Your battery is not keeping enough charge during mortor/charging/operation, then in the morning it recuperates, as part of its reserve and starts the car. They can even be full of battery water. Sometimes when batteries are in this threshold, they even test good in meters, with the results you have. If you have another car, that you know the battery is great exchange it and run the experiment, you probably will see no problem starting and running. If you keep running your car as you are doing you will kill the alternator also, since the battery does not keep enough charge at times. it will make the alternator work harder in fact killing it softly. The click is characteristic of low charge, or in some instances the battery connections bad, and also the starter. I would go first testing the battery with a known good one, cleaning the contacts, and last testing the whole charging starting system. If all of this fails then you have some other bad corroded cable, or bad ground, but this is very remote possibility. Go for the obvious the battery and cleaning its terminals, making sure they are tight and free of corrosion. C. PR ←

Thanks - I will try this - Pops

Thanks, Adz, They did meter the battery and got a reading of 11.5 - 12 volts. This could be just battery charge or if the battery was faulty i.e. down to say 9 volts then the alternator charge would make up the difference. So, I'm checking the battery out. Could take a few days owing to bank holiday. Will keep you informed. Thanks again. Pops.

thanks - will check this out and get back to you

Driving home, radio cuts out, lights dim, finally engine dies. Cannot be restarted - starter motor just gives series of clicks doesn't engage. But hazards, horn, seat adjust, remote lock all work. Leave car at roadside overnight. Return in morning - car starts first flick. I drive it 5 miles to garage for check up. They say "Faulty alternator". I say "No way! How come car started and drove perfectly for 5 miles" Car runs but cuts out periodically as before. Any help in diagnosing this fault would be appreciated.

Touring France in my '94 ls400 - bright sunlight into dark shade - high curb - low fender - misjudged length - not for first time - oops! The bottom strip is cracked in one place, the strip above slightly bent (though the light not damaged). Suggestions on repairing this damage cheaply welcomed.

I've been away so only just caught up on this string. Yes, Maneesh, my car does seem a bit bouncy in the rear especially over speed bumps which are like a rash in my area (we wait since the Romans left for decent roads then the morons do this to them!) However, I don't think I'll be going in for expensive improvements any time soon - at least until I decide whether I like the post '95 model any more than my '94. What do people think on the pros and cons.

I don't see any problem in identifying the dealership as Lexus Coventry (there's nothing top secret about a car service). As far as I'm concerned, the main problem with their inspection was they didn't say how urgent they considered any of the repairwork to be in terms of keeping the car running. The whole thing was presented to me as "bad news" - which it certainly would have been (financially) if I'd just said go ahead. It wasn't until I'd read some replies here, spoken to some people and then put the car through an MOT, that I began to figure what was happening. I agree, Maneesh, they were talking about returning the vehicle to near delivery mileage condition, whilst I'm just interested in keeping a ten year old car fairly roadworthy. It seems that this is a common experience with dealerships. Maybe when some elderly customer suffers a coronary in reception, they'll try explaining things a little better.

Okay, here's the latest in the saga! I put the car through an MOT test and it sailed through everything, including the emissions test without a problem. So what about the Lexus dealership's list of nearly £4,000 worth of necessary repairs including the faulty exhaust, cats, hub, etc? Your answer is as good (and probably better) than mine. The brakes will still want looking at but I think I can get them and most of the other minor stuff done locally at minimal expense. How did the bushes work out by the way, Maneesh?

I'm interested that you never heard of a Lexus needing a new exhaust. Maybe mine has been misdiagnosed as I originally hoped. I'll know more on Monday after its MOT. Lexus's quote for the balljoint work was £230 - cheaper elsewhere of course. Most encouraging though, is what you say about the replacement bushes. If that turned out to be my problem too, it could save me £550. I'd be very interested to learn how you make out fitting yours (wouldn't care to do mine as well would you? LOL ) As for the car being abused, it wasn't a showroom model when I bought it but was described by the inspector (in writing) as in good to average condition. I've just written to the firm involved inviting their comments. I'll keep you posted on further developments. It wouldn't be a hardship to keep the car. They're all expensive mistresses and I still love the damn thing. I just don't like the idea of being bilked.

Maneesh. The list includes pr balljoints, top balljoint, hub and bearing,trailing arm, v belt, fuel filter pipes, exhaust inc cats and ctr exhaust. heatshields (fixing), shock dust covers, oil pan - the exhaust and hub being the most expensive items. I'd be interested in your estimate for fixing this lot. How long do I want to keep the car? I don't want to change it - unless I move on to a post '95 model. Would I be wiser spending my money doing this now and if so, what will I get for my present car in its present condition?- these are the questions I'm asking myself.

I'm sure it's advisable to use the right fuel, however, realistically like most people, I end up just grabbing whatever unleaded is available. In my book, a good car should cope with anything short of diesel. will the LS 400 ? If not, what can happen?

I've just come back from a 500 mile round trip and I'm convinced I bought an excellent car (in spite of the problems referred to above). Even with the heat shields (or according to Lexus, the cats themselves) rattling gently in the rear, the journey was effortless. I'm feeling less like sueing somebody and more inclined to bite the bullet and pay up for the repairs. If (following the advice of people on this board) I can get the bill down to £1500-2000, I still have a lot of car for under £6K. Touring Europe this summer, I'm going to feel happier (even more prudent) in my Lexus than in something "sensible?" like my buddy's Twingo - after all, I can fill the tank a few times before I reach the figure he paid for his vehicle. My only fear is that with a mileage approaching 160k, more major expenses could be expected. What do others think?

Thanks to everbody who replied. I've taken your good advice and am in the process of joining Gold. I've had no time to get quotes from independent repairers yet but it looks as if things may not be so bad as I thought on the costs front. Maybe I overreacted a little through shock at the prospect of losing an arm and a leg. It's genuinely nice to have a place to come to out of the shark pool.