fuddymucker

Yes both of these have been checked, infact the boot wiring was one of my first hopes, thanks anyway I am more than confident that the engine itself is fine and that it just needs a new wiring loom and brain, like me...

Hello again all Sorry I haven't updated for a while but I have been a tad busy.. After swapping all parts on the 1st LS400 for known good units on the 2nd LS400 I still had the same issue and this only puzzled me more. Feeling that I had to give in sooner or later I left the car for a week to search for more logical reasons for my issue, during this week I found myself fitting a second hand multi point injection LPG conversion to the 2nd LS400 so I don't have to feel guilty using a V8 as my new best day to day drive. So what about the 1st LS400.... well I have not found the fault... as a car she is dead and I am breaking her body on Ebay However I will be transplanting her heart and soul to a new body, removing all her old tired faulty electrics and EGR rubbish then connecting up a state of art stand-alone waterproof ignition system and she will beat again but to a different tune. Once running I will be installing it in to a all-terrain 4x4 rescue vehicle that will work in Somerset from the Mendip and Quantock hills to the Somerset levels and peat moors working along side the emergency services during the winter months accesing places they can’t get aid to due to floods, deep snow, mud ect.. Once complete I really will have the best of both worlds A Lexus powered 4x4 recovery vehicle And a Luxury economical LS400

I have 6 cars, 2 quads, 5 motorbikes and my pet hate is road tax No sign of a divorce that I'm aware of......... but now you mention it....

Ok I am back! After not being able to find anyone who is happy to swap parts as a process of elimination to find my issue, I have done the next best thing.... Yes I have bought another LS400, This one runs well and has done 163000 but still hits 60 in 8.8 seconds (so not much wrong with this engine). It is also MOT'd and taxed and in the best colour BLACK. At £500 it was cheaper that replacing the sensors 1 by 1 Now I will swap parts in the hope I can get 2 running 400s Will Post My Findings

Ok I am back again and after a wiring diagram that shows the cam sensor wirings. The reason for this is although the sensors meter out fine from the sensors connector plugs, they dont mesuring back down the loom from the other half of the sensor plug. The left cam sensor measures 10 ohms where the right measures over 110 ohms, need to follow them on a wiring diagram to check them point to point. I am only guessing now but if the ohms are to high the sensor wont be sending back a signal to the ecu, if the ecu gets no signal it thinks that cam aint moving. Clasping at straws maybe?

The problem I have is that I paid £500 for the car plus getting it home and endless hours trying to fix it that now I beleive I could have got a working one from ebay for that sort of money. If I spend much more on it without any luck then I will only get my money back by breaking her myself. The other problem (that I don't understand because she has caused me so much frustration in just 1 week) is that I do like the old dog and don't want to rip her up bit by bit to post body parts around the country. Does anyone on this forum live in Somerset who can help me out testing parts for known good parts? Cheers

Yes the air filer and assembly is ok, the throttle body and top intake I removed a couple days ago and cleaned up by hand (the throttle body was really dirty on the back side, maybe because it has been running so rich on Limp Home Mode). Thanks for the sudjestion, and yes I am fast running out of love for it. Just wish I could park next to another LS400 and start swaping parts with known good units like ECU, MAP ect..

Well time is up for this old bus, I have tried so much with no glimmer of sucess HT LEADS DISSY CAPS ROTOR ARMS PLUGS COMPRESSION OHM TESTS ON CAM AND CRANK SENSORS IGNITORS COILS TODAY I EVEN REMOVED THE TIMING BELT, PULLYS ECT AND REBUILT HER She is not running any better, still wont go above 2000rmp, still running very rich, if you try to get her above 2000rpm her cats glow cherry red and still shows no error codes. I am now tired and thinking enough is enough. Thanks for you help anyway it was worth a shot, now I'm gonna get shot.

Last night I removed and checked the sparkplugs, HT leads, dissy caps, rotor arms, cambelt timing and while the plugs were out I also did a compression test and was amazed to find all 8 cylinders above 210 psi, that was such a relief to know the engine is ok and it is just the control that’s faulty. Just out of curiosity does anyone know the original factory psi pressures?

I wish you lived nearer too STEVE2006, then I could remove each of your components 1 by 1 until mine worked, then I could be sure what was wrong :winky:

Cheers TigerFish, that was really helpfull to see the same jumper in the same place as mine, also it is intresting to see the socket looking so bad as mine looks the same, guess it is some sort of waterproofing on the spades and not just muck :)

Ok I have checked the diagnostic port on the engine and WA and WB have a jumper on but it looks like a proper jumper not a piece of wire. Can someone check there port to see if these are jumped as standard please

Thanks Steve2006 When you say it is a duplicate code reading port, does it do eveything that the one does inside the car But its just a diffrent shape? If so do you have a diagram of each connector TE1 + E1?

Hi Steve2006 thanks for doing the test for me :) I also think it is in some form of limp home mode but I don't know what AFM stands for sorry. Hello SteveLS400, yes I have followed it to the letter but still no engine check light. Just to be sure I'm not getting my symbols mixed up, when I say engine check light I'm talking about the orange symbol thats shaped like an engine (I have no hand book sorry)

Well I have spent all day trying to sort this issue.. I have removed every fuse and checked them all, all OK. I have blown out the air filter with a high pressure line and it looks much better. I have removed and dismantled the display cluster, cleaned all connections and boards with electrical cleaner and reassembled, still no check light on ignition). I have disconnected all ecu plugs and cleaned with electrical cleaner, no change.. If it would only display the fault code I would stand a much better chance of sorting it, but I am just having no luck getting the engine check light to show when the ignition is turned on, do you actually need the engine running to do this code finding? or will I damage a computer somewhere when I short the terminals out with the engine running? Can someone else please test this on there LS400 (mine is a 93), go out turn the ignition on and see if you get the engine check light symbol displayed. Many Thanks FuddyMucker

The rest of the car is not perfect and looks like it has been unloved for the last 2 years ding on front ns wing, smashed os rear boot light where the boot lock has been beaten out and all bumper corners have been scratched. On the plus side every internal luxury electric works and the interior is clean. Also she drives smooth as silk even if only up to 2000rpm the ride quality is like nothing else.

Thanks ROYT, does anyone have a copy of this page they can send me please

While trying to read the fault codes I hit a problem before I start 1. The malfunction indicator lamp will come on when the ignition switch is turned ON and the engine is not running. HINT: If the malfunction indicator lamp does not light up, proceed to troubleshooting of the combination meter (See page BE−194). 2. When the engine is started, the malfunction indicator lamp should go off. Well the light does not come on with the rest of the ignition test lights but it does come on when the engine is started... Guess I need to find page BE-194? - Show quoted text -

Hello everybody I have just bought a 1993 LS400 with only 66000 miles on the clock, problem is I bought it at auction and the engine light is always on and it wont rev above 2000rpm. I know these engines are bullet proof so at that low milage I'm guessing it must be a faulty sensor or something, is this a common fault? Cant find anything by searching the forum except how to reset the ecu, as soon as I restart the engine the fault light comes back on.. If it is a terminal issue it will go to the scrapyard but would be a shame if its because of a £20 sensor or dirty probe somewhere. Thanks