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ndrk

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Posts posted by ndrk

  1. 8.2 seconds EU spec IS300 vs ~7 seconds US spec IS300 is only beacause final ratio.

    US spec auto - 3.91:1

    EU spec auto - 3.38:1

    Now if you ask me what happens when one throws in Supra MK III 4.3 gears with LSD unit (both are direct swap)? I can tell you that TypeR civics and MK V golf GTI will get used to see those round taillights of yours...

    MPG, of course, will suffer a bit on motorways beacause engine will rev higher but...

  2. I just did it.

    You can unscrew the filter from above but it will not come out. I droped the filter somewhere towards rear, then I got it from under the car. Installing new filter was reversed process. I put filter in from under the car and droped it onto steering shaft. Then I picked it up from above and screwed in.

    of course, I had car on the lift.

  3. Torsen LSD will, as stated before, run rear wheels on opposite ways when car is lifted and wheels turned by hand.

    Torsen is good by being virtually bulletproof but on slippery conditions (snow, icetrack) it will not perform like a cluch-type LSD. Torsen needs some traction to "fight back" to be effective.

    Thats why I installed Supra MKIII LSD tunit into mine. It´s bolt-on swap (you can swap only LSD unit, not the whole pumpkin). Supra has cluch-type LSD and of course turning one wheel when car is lifted, the other turns the same way. Cluch type diff is better when you are practicing your high-speed drifts on snowy streets during the night. Car is easily controllable with your right foot.

    And for those who have open diff, go with MKIII´s. They are cheap as dirt and readily available.

    Oh, almost forgot - MKIII diffs go for IS300 diff housing only.

  4. Now you can pin this post somewhere or leave it here but this is ALL you need to calculate lexus IS200/300 wheel fitment.

    These limits are the practical extremes with good alignments. You can buy more fender room with camber or rolling or pulling. In front, you can buy more room with shorter overall tire diameter (<25") The closer you get to these limits, the more likely you will need to stretch a tire to fit the fender side. Drop does not determine what size wheels fit. Put too aggressive a wheel, and one day, you WILL bend your fender when you take the wrong turn with a good bump if you exceed these limits.

    Measuring in mm from the face of the hub:

    Front fender limit: +65mm

    Comments:

    | +65 | Stretch tire and/or roll fender. Need fender liner mod. Do not exceed tire diameter of 25"

    | +55 | Fender liner mod if going for a wide or tall tire. Do no exceed tire diameter of 25.2"

    Front inner suspension upright limit: -155mm

    Comments:

    Need spacer if this number is exceeded. If close, do not use lip weights on wheels

    Rear fender limit: +68mm

    Rear fender limit w/ shaved lip: +75

    Comments:

    Need to stretch tire to a certain degree if very close to these numbers

    Rear inner suspension coil lmit: -183mm

    Comments:

    Several factors matter as you approach this limit. You may need to limit the amount of suspension travel. You may need to stretch tire. And you cannot run as aggressive camber. I've been able to actually scrub tire well before this limit (@ -175mm) with track cornering loads on the spring and inner forward tub.

    Equations to figure out wheel lip placement relative to limits:

    Outer lip: (Wheel Width * 25.4) / 2 - Wheel Offset

    Inner lip: (Wheel Width * 25.4) / 2 + Wheel Offset

    Note: Inner lip is related to backspacing but backspacing takes into consideration the wheel lip thickness, which is usually another 1/2" or 12.7mm.

    Examples:

    Front wheel size: 8.5" +45

    Fender: 8.5 * 25.4 / 2 - 45 = 62.95 (< 65 - OK)

    Suspension: 8.5 * 25.4 / 2 + 45 = 152.95 ( < 155 - OK)

    Rear wheel size: 9.5" +55

    Fender: 9.5 * 25.4 / 2 - 55 = 65.175 (< 68 - OK)

    Suspension: 9.5 * 25.4 / 2 + 55 = 175.65 (< 190 - OK)

  5. they come with instructions.

    You either solder or crimp few wires and you are good to go.

    Thing that is actually making the power is this chip that comes with intake. It´s a A/F mixture controller similar to Apexi SAFC. It just dont have any adjustment options, parameters are already set. That justifies the price also

  6. Ah, do you're saying those rear speakers with the woofer and the tweeter are not plug and play? That's too bad... I already have an aftermarket radio with the 6 speaker system and everything works perfectly. So replacing my rear speakers with the more expensive ones wouldn't work?

    With OEM amp -NO.

    OEM amp is filtering signals itself. Aftermarket 6x9 will need unfiltered signal.

    If you already have already aftermarket HU and rear speakers waitin for installation. Throw away the OEM amp and replace it with aftermarket 4-channel unit. Rewire the whole system.

  7. OEM 17 inch wheels are 7 inch wide and with +50 offset. Tires are 215/45. TTE 18 inchers are 7,5 inch wide and +49 offset.

    I recommend 8-8.5 inch for fronts with 30-40 offset and 8,5 - 9,5 inch rears with around 35 offset. Use max 225/40 inch wide tires. They´ll strech a bit on rear wheels but they´ll clear the arch even if you are lowered.

    If you go with 9.5 inch in the rear and lets say +30 offset, you may have to adjust camber to -1-2 degrees.

  8. that Lexus badge on rear speakers is a little nice touch but I´m not sure you should want them so bad. Specially in case your windows are tinted.

    8 speaker system is good when it is OEM but PITA when you want to go aftermarket. There are 2 speaksers mounted on one 6x9 frame. tweeter is 4 ohm and woofer is 2 ohm. You have to ditch them if upgrading to aftermarket amp.

  9. if you do not want to buy OEM (~80 EUR at dealer) then only thing to go for is Scosche. Scosche has exatctly the same plastic color and texture as OEM. With OEM fascia you´ll lose seat heater buttons.

    Here is Scosche one in my car (it can be fastly converted to 2DIN)

    20796571795972_l.jpg

    Here is OEM

    jasestu-ice1.jpg

    Here is some noname eBay facia (crap in so many ways)

    p9829075.jpg

  10. I also completed the job some weeks ago.

    My disc groove was really corroded so good clean with dremel did the trick. Be sure to wear some respirator because there will be huge cloud of rust dust when dremel is in action.

    I also cut down some micrometers from lower part of both backplates edge. Aso replaced brakepads as they had to be removed anyway...

  11. Never had problems in winter.

    I turn off TRC in city as it only pisses me off. I have spiked tires all around and boy is that fun...

    I also dont see need for putting sandbag into trunk. You just keep your tank full of fuel and you´ll have constantly extra 70 kg on rear wheels.

    ooh, I forgot...we have snow during 4-5 months...

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