katabrontes

I would ignore it and see what happens.

i regularly get warning lights for Brakes/ABS and one other which come on at random.  Sometimes while driving more often after starting up.  They always clear after switching off and restarting.   No fault codes ever found with my mini dongle of my garage ( not Lexus) more sophisticated system on their laptop.  Never failed an MoT on this account.  Everything works normally.  No one has managed to diagnose the reason  over about past 10 years.

The obsession with MPG has always puzzled me.  

The biggest cost, if you buy new, is depreciation which puts the cost of fuel in the shade.  

If EVs become liable for VED, which looks inevitable, and insurance costs continue to increase due to problems with repairs, Battery damage worries and increasing write offs when damage is slight then any financial advantages of EVs will erode considerably.

Of course I have focussed on the 'business case' but it does puzzle me that those who are happy and able to spend verging on six figures for a car are so focussed on the relatively small costs of driving it around.

Environmental arguments are quite another thing but they are rarely mentioned in this forum!

You might find NHS Occupational Therapy services or specialist disability support groups would be more helpful than commercial suppliers as they should be able to offer experience from those actually using the equipment. I tried to find the shooter in Cyprus who had a system fitted to his 4x4 but I don't have his contact details.

I have seen various adaptions to either allow a special seat to rotate and drop to make access to a wheelchair beside the care easy or a hoist fitted to a special roof rack which does the same.  A man in a wheelchair used to use something like this to go clay pigeon shooting in Cyprus and it allowed him to be completely independent.  I don't have a source for this type of adaption but I am sure your local occupational therapy department would be able to help.

A bit fiddly as you need to remove the large plastic cover on the drivers side.  There are a few hex head bolts projecting behind the light assemblies which control the orientation of the headlights.  The top one adjusts for the height.  I find a small hex socket on a flexible shaft is easiest tool to do this.  A small adjustment makes a big difference so make sure you don't raise the beams too much to cause dazzle.  I stand in front of the car about 5-10 metres away to check this.

I have found that the dipped beams are always set much too low.  I usually raise them up a bit after the MoT ( they always reset the down when MoT is done!) which improves them a lot.  They are adequately bright, just set so low that they only light the road for about 15M in front of the car.

15 hours ago, ColinBarber said:

Self levelling lights, not suspension.

All UK series II RXs have self levelling HID lights with washers.

My 2006 RX350 has original HID lights on the dipped beam but the main beam was rather poor halogen bulbs which I initially converted to HID and recently swapped these for LED which are much better.

18 hours ago, NemesisUK said:

He should notice the lack of self-levelling and headlamp washers?

My RX350 has these.

Comment by Nemesis is informative.  However it seems very strange that it is OK to replace inadequate headlight bulbs on an older car but not on a newer one.  Not unusual for unintended consequences to arise from 'official' pronouncements, legislation or regulations but odd that this has persisted for so long without being corrected.  I dipped very bright headlights are a problem whatever the age of the car and are a function of a careless driver not a dangerous vehicle.

22 hours ago, NemesisUK said:

Your independent garage is risking it's MoT testing licence and your road legal status/insurance etc.. by ignoring this 'blindingly' obvious statement in the MoT tester's manual -

Existing halogen headlamp units on vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 must not be converted to be used with high intensity discharge (HID) or light emitting diode (LED) bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp for light source and lamp not compatible.

This does not refer to complete replacement headlamp units which may be constructed with HID or LED light sources.

If a complete headlamp unit has been replaced with a unit that was manufactured with HID or LED light sources, it must not be failed for ‘Light source and lamp not compatible’ but it must meet all other requirements detailed in section 4 of this manual specific to the type fitted at the time of test.

 

On 12/1/2023 at 9:14 PM, Spock66 said:

I believe upgrade to either HID or LED would potentially result in an MOT failure as they do not comply with the appropriate lighting regulations.

Osram Night-Breaker (in the same fitment as original) is worth trying in my experience, also make sure the alignment is correctly set-up.

I have seen this posted and there is a note on the Philips bulbs that they are ' for off road use only'.

However my RX has passed its MoT every time since I fitted the first conversion to HID and enquiry to my independent garage who does the tests confirmed that they are not a problem with MoT.

The other point that has been raised is on insurance as the change of bulb could be regarded as a modification from standard specification but the same argument could be used if, say, roof bars were fitted to a car supplied without them or even fitting a CAT restraint system or even the recently introduced under wheel arch shields to deafest Canbus theft.

Very bad luck.  It confirms my decision to hang on to my 2006 RX350 which is not vulnerable to the Canbus method of theft.  I would not buy one of the affected series of RX 450.

I had the same problem with my RX 350.  My first effort was an HID conversion which was good and really bright but it had an irritating rather slow warm up so full brightness took a little time to develop when first switched to main beam.  Once they were warmed up it was instant.  Fitting was a bit complicated as the high voltage supply had to be fitted and secured safely.  
 

This year I changed to a Phillips LED which is excellent.  Very bright and instant on.  Again a little tricky to fit as you need to set the orientation of the bulb accurately which is quite fiddly and the mounting ring which you have to adjust is quite delicate.  Once done however they are very good.

I used these 

https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/hb3-hb4-philips-ultinon-pro9100-led-headlights-pair.html

Good luck.

i think you would do well to use a high output LED for the reversing lights as well.  The standard ones are rubbish.

Looks very sensible to me.  My Toyota and Lexus have never been near an official main dealer.

Maybe worth using a small local garage to do your MoT so you can explain how to clear the problem if it happens during the test.  Big boys are probably less flexible.  As it doesn't affect any safety critical features it shouldn't be a fail issue but some people always take too precautionary a position.

Mine is very intermittent and quite unpredictable.  It used to happen a bit more often in the rain but not consistently.  So far it has defied diagnosis but I have stopped bothering about it as it doesn't seem to affect the braking and always resets when the engine is restarted.  Sometimes it just goes off on its own.  Best suggestion was that it was a glitch in the main 'computer' which resets every time the car is started which is why it clears.  Don't lose sleep over it and learn to live with it.  It could otherwise be a very expensive fix for precious little benefit.

Might be worth a try but I did this about a year ago and it made no difference.

My local garage checked mine with Techstream and I did it with a small dongle.  No error codes showed up.

Hi David,  mine is still a mystery but it is less often since I changed the main beams to LED even though the HID conversion was stated to be CANBUS compliant.  I don't worry about it any more.  It always clears if I stop the engine and restart it.  Never failed an MoT as my garage knows the stop start trick so if it happens they can clear it.

Check the tyre pressures.  I have a similar problem with these lights coming on at odd times.  It was suggested that it could be due to imbalance in the wheel sensors.  Could be a bit of dirt or if the pressures are adrift then one wheel will turn slightly faster and might cause it.  Never found the cause of mine although it happens much less since I replaced the HID main beam bulbs with LEDs which suggested it might have been a CANBUS issue.  No fault codes ever appear.

They run behind the side quarter panels in the boot.  You might find one or both are kinked there which tends to collect rubbish.  I cut mine short and put a length of 15mm copper pipe at the lower end and they have stayed cleaner ever since.

I used to get this on a tight lock on my old Toyota Surf (Japanese import of FourRunner).  It was traced to the point where the coil springs were fitted into the supporting cup.  I assume from the OP that your 300 has air suspension so this isn't likely to be your problem.  You do seem to have renewed all the potentially suspect parts.

A recent report on car theft in Paris put two Lexus models as 2 & 4 most common.  Both have 'keyless' systems.

Recent report from Connexion

"The top five most frequently stolen cars in 2022, according to the Franco-German car magazine Auto Plus, were also predominantly hybrids:

1. Toyota Rav4 “5” 
2. Lexus NX 
3. Audi A3 “3”   
4. Lexus UX   
5. Renault Megane 4  "

I think if you lock the car with the key instead of the remote the alarm will not be activated ( as requested on ferries).

Of course I meant to write "bumper"!

Two weeks seems a long time to fix a number!  I had a dent in a door pulled out and filled then the door resprayed in 3 days.