johnnyroper

Yes I certainly did works brilliantly,USB routed under centre console and a USB socket located by OE aux.

the touch screen heater controls and touch screen double din modernise the dash in my opinion.

4 hours ago, Herbie said:

Never heard of anyone doing this before Paul, what's the reasoning behind it?

It is or was recommended to reduce the risk of spiking the electronics after jump starting a dead car from a good one. 

Looks like someone has fitted an unleaded neck to that

The propshaft coupling/donut on my 220d is cracking and I suspect it’s causing the slight driveline vibration at speed.

can anyone recommend a stockist or is it dealer only part?

tried looking online but all I can get up is used ones from fleabay.

I was confident it would work but it didn’t for me, I am sure I still have it if you PM me your address I can post to you so you can give it a go without paying for it?

1 hour ago, NemesisUK said:

You could try conductive paint to repair the broken element?

Approx £10 from Amazon

I recently tried that product on an Alfa rear screen,found it to be fairly rubbish. Whenever you tried to removed the template it pulled the stuff off. Tried with masking tape it also pulled the stuff off. Managed to get some on finally but it did not make the line work again after all the hassle

Full service won’t make a difference it’s just one of them things with a modern diesel due to amount of extra fuel that’s dumped in exhaust to burn in the DPF.

i find with mine if I keep it at steady rpm of about 3k to keep exhaust temp up the regen completes fine with minimal smoke. The majority of smoke is when planting foot down during a regen.

it shouldn’t fail emissions as it is working as designed just make sure give it a run prior to mot to get a regen done.

That noise you describe sounds like clutch related to me,did they change the release bearing? (I would hope so)

you say only happens in 1st and reverse but is that because you can’t hear it in other gears as engine noise would be higher, have you tried pulling away in 2nd to see if noise still there?

Having been in similar position previously I think you will struggle with run of the mill cars that would fit a booster and 2 baby seats in the back. My mrs ended up using a ford galaxy for few years as they have individual seats in the rear to accommodate kids seats easily.

i agree with the Lexus space I have 1 booster and 2 kids in back sometimes and space is not the best for them,clipping in seatbelts requires a bit of messing about

As said updated halogens is the way to go,recently did mine the improvement was quite drastic.

i also aligned them again as they were slightly low this improved further much better night time vision and no dazzling on coming drivers

“A dpf burnout every 50 miles” are you saying the car is doing a regen every 50 miles or are you giving it a thrashing to get temp up?

if it’s regenerating every 50 miles then that is far too much 

Mains are HB3 if I remember correctly.

I fitted some LED’s to a previous car and to look at they were brighter but in the real world the light was awful. Very little range so they were worse than the OE halogens.

if you are after better light output I would advise going for some upgrade halogens, osram night breakers etc. 

On my IS I upgraded the bulbs but also adjusted the lamps as beam pattern was on the low side, this has made a huge difference and I don’t dazzle oncoming drivers.

I did swear a lot about it being a stupid design etc. But I didn’t find it massively difficult in comparison to some jobs I have done on other cars.

tigra EGR valves for example were an utter tw@t to change considering it’s just 2 bolts and a plug

I would go with it’s because aftermarket one,I much prefer fitting used genuine parts than after market stuff as it’s never up to the job.

why did you change the EGR was it knackered?

Its an awkward one to change that’s for sure,half hour to do a filter is a bit crazy. I have fitted screw in from bottom on mine so it’s easier next time round as I shouldn’t need to take housing down.

the screw only stops it from turning so fitting from the bottom is not an issue as it still stops it turning.

Out of curiosity when connecting techstream what did you select to connect to car?

i tried with mine and could find no reference to is220d in vehicle list

Those codes all point towards immobiliser issue, key reader would be my guess as you already replaced ECU. 

The only thought I had was if it has similar to VW diversity set up,2 aerials one of which is amplified the other isn’t. The standard HU has a slot for it to push in to,very odd.

That’s not a filter it’s just a separator bowl, undo the the tap on it and drain it down. Don’t forget to use the prime function after.

Swapped head unit over today and found my standard set up has 2 aerials. A standard din that fits the pioneer and gives good radio signal but also a miniature version.

what is the smaller version for on standard non nav,non ML head unit for?

My connects2 ctkplx02 arrived today just been looking at wiring and all it has is front speaker wires. Assuming tears are done via the 2 RCA leads to AMP?

mine is non nav,non ML head unit will it still have standard amp and run rear speakers via the RCA leads?  Not got HU out of car yet to confirm wiring just wanted to see if anyone can advise so I am prepared for when I strip it out.

Sounds just like mine did when I first got it, egr was fairly clean but overtime it had worn so was not closing fully even with no carbon crap in there.

egr replaced car performed so much better.

Check for feed at starter solenoid when pressing start,if 12v there and main live has 12v change starter.

if no feed start tracing back through wiring to relays etc,have you checked the basics like fuses?

Na didn’t cost that got pioneer off fleabay for £100 and facia was £250 from car audio direct.

looking at v line it wouldn’t work with mine as I don’t have the standard nav.