wmerlin

Can I know what was the clutch kit that you have used? Flywheel is clear, a JUN lightweight unit, but what is the clutch kit type/manufacturer?

Hi All,

I am looking for a clutch/flywheel replacement on my IS 200 (1G-FE), after juddering and vibrations come from the gearbox.

I have narrowed down the flywheels to the JUN / TTV racing flywheels to choose from.

What do you recommend as a clutch used for the lightened flywheels?

I cannot find a TRD part, only items that fit the RS200 Altezza. I foudn that the clutches for the RS200 (SXE10 / 3S-GE) is the same and fits the flywheel of the 1G-FE, and the gearbox of the IS200 as well.

For example, this one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EXE-Stage-3-Clutch-Kit-Fits-98-02-TOYOTA-ALTEZZA-2-0L-RS200-SXE10-3SGE-6SPD-JDM-/191565241498?hash=item2c9a2d9c9a

Does anyone have any recommendation on what is a good clutch upgrade?

Did you use the metro tyto-01 harness or? I ordered one but it's missing the plugs so have to get a few days off when weather is nice so I can tinker ( garage is full of stuff ).

I saw someone post a facia earlier and I got the same one, was very poor quality and it eventually got binned. I'll check my emails for the order I placed for second facia, which is very easy to build and fit and surprisingly robust concidering the parts just clip together.

Hi,

I live in Hungary, so I ahve ordered an adapter from a local store. It looks like this:

http://www.autoradiokeret.hu/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/Toyota___ISO_r___4a12953bb545e.jpg

I see this one to be similar:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lexus-IS200-Car-Radio-Wiring-Loom-Harness-ISO-Adaptor-/350395370141?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5195310a9d

I have ordered a fascia first, which was terrible, then I asked for a CELSUS made fascia, that was VERY robust, just as you say. I went for a 2DIN unit, so I had to use the original "loosy" one, as it fitted the 2din unit better. It turned out that the "lousy" one matches the dash color better.

Also you need something like this, if the antenna connector is not on the same side as the original radio:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Stereo-Radio-Antenna-AM-FM-Extender-Lead-Adapter-Cord-DIN-Male-to-Female-/281007126522?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item416d5477fa

Have a great day in installing the new radio. I always liked a day like this.

Mine looks like this after finished:

http://kepfeltoltes.hu/150502/IMG_20150324_071915_hdr_www.kepfeltoltes.hu_.jpg

Well, we did some inspection.

I have a slight, similar frequency vibration (like in 6th) in neutral, with the clutch depressed also.

If I am watching for the vibration in th and 5th, they are also there a little. We lifted the car, and the vibration without load on the rear suspension was VERY strong, when revving the whole drivetrain at a 80-110 kph speed.

Next wednesday we will check ignition, compression, etc to see wether it comes from the engine.

I plan to replace engine / tranny mounts as well

Then if it does not go away, we remove the rear wheels, axles, diff them the shaft. Step by step, until the tranny is down. to find source for vibration.

I will keep the forum posted, but if anyone have ny idea, let us know.

Hiya,

Glad you got it all working. I ended up running complete new cable through the car as I wanted an amplifier to power all speakers that I have replaced.

Hope you enjoy your new speakers.

Dean

At last I have fitted a Kenwood dpx 306 double din unit in the dash. I only needed a harness and an antenna cable extender to connect it to the original connectors, and thats it.

All works fine now.

Guys,

can you poit out wether my logic is wrong somewhere. I am speaking of a 2002 is200 sedan, 6speed manual

Observations:

- I hear a loud but low frequency noise (you can feel it aswell like bass coming from a subwoofer) from in 6th gear from the car between 85kph to 120kph.

- If I push in the clutch, the sound immediately goes away.

- In any other gear, at any speed, I cannot feel or hear this noise.

From this, my thinking that the above means the 6th gears sprockets and bearing (?) is getting worn out? Due to it only apperas in 6th, I would rule out the differential, the clutch or the dual masss flywheel (I a not sure about the flywheel yet). Any other thoughts?

- During shifting from 1st to 2nd, there is a loud click,

- During shifting from 2nd to 3rd slowly, the lever is stuck a little, and I can feel a mechanical "stop" on the shift lever. After this, it goes into rd smoothly.

From this, I would say the synchronisers are worn out between 1-2 and for 3rd gear.

If anyone sees a wrong logic above, please comment.

Thanks, Ferenc

Hi,

Not too sure if I am replying too late now as to whether you may have sorted the question you have. But never the less.

If you have looked behind the glove box and you do not have the amplifier then your life will be so much easier. I had an amplified system that I had to bypass with the bypass lead. I am assuming that the stereo wiring on a non-amplified system will just need the ISO lead to convert the Lexus wiring to a ISO connector.

The factory rear speakers IF you have an amplified stereo will have 4 wires as the rear speakers have a mid range and subwoofer built into them. As yours is not a amplified system and only has two wires, then im assuming you only have the mid range rather than both. You should be ok not to replace the rear speakers. Unless you wish to replace your rear speakers with another set of 6x9's. If you do plan to replace your speakers, front or rear speakers, then you will need to make MDF baffles to mount your new rear speakers onto.

Basically use the standard speaker as a template and cut to fit your new speakers and bolt in place. For the front speakers they are riveted onto the door, so you will have to drill out the rivets. I used 15mm MDF for the rear speakers and 3/4" MDF for the front speakers with sound deadening to bring the speakers out a little more as they were catching on the door glass.

Hope this gives you the information you was looking for.

Dean

Hi Dean, finally I had time to do the check. The rear speakers work fine, with no modded wiring, all lines that run to any speaker are factory wires. Now I only need my final HU to be purchased.

Just a general info if anyone needs it, this fascia adapter is the one that has a VERY strong build quality. It does not match 100% the dash color, but the quality is exceptional.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Celsus-AFC5224-Stereo-Fascia-Lexus/dp/B006VV32QQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418538933&sr=8-1&keywords=is+200+fascia

Hi,

Not too sure if I am replying too late now as to whether you may have sorted the question you have. But never the less.

If you have looked behind the glove box and you do not have the amplifier then your life will be so much easier. I had an amplified system that I had to bypass with the bypass lead. I am assuming that the stereo wiring on a non-amplified system will just need the ISO lead to convert the Lexus wiring to a ISO connector.

The factory rear speakers IF you have an amplified stereo will have 4 wires as the rear speakers have a mid range and subwoofer built into them. As yours is not a amplified system and only has two wires, then im assuming you only have the mid range rather than both. You should be ok not to replace the rear speakers. Unless you wish to replace your rear speakers with another set of 6x9's. If you do plan to replace your speakers, front or rear speakers, then you will need to make MDF baffles to mount your new rear speakers onto.

Basically use the standard speaker as a template and cut to fit your new speakers and bolt in place. For the front speakers they are riveted onto the door, so you will have to drill out the rivets. I used 15mm MDF for the rear speakers and 3/4" MDF for the front speakers with sound deadening to bring the speakers out a little more as they were catching on the door glass.

Hope this gives you the information you was looking for.

Dean

Thanks Dean. I did not make the conversion yet, as I do not have the final headunit. I however did get a headunit for testing. I will check it either this weekend or the next, and will get back to you. The MDF size info is very useful, thanks!

Ferenc

Hi everyone.

I was struggling to ask this for a while. I did read through a lot of topics regarding the stereo topic.

The story is: My head unit that came stock does not have a working CD player (ERR1. I did clean the lens, etc, it does not work at all. (I can eject CD-s, but cannot play CD-s))

So I want to add an aftermarket HU with Bluetooth built in. So I ordered a facia, and a cable that is an adaptor from the original connections to the factory HU to ISO connections.

I did not buy the HU yet, but I did read through the audio system related topics, where I see that I need to bypass the factory Amp. I did check, there is no AMP in the car. (I did check behind the glovebox, on the right (I have left hand drive car). (as a sanity check, I checked the left side as well, no amp :) )

So now I see that some guys claim that the factory rear speakers will not work with the new HU, as they include 2 speakers? Arent they a 2 way speaker? They only have 2 wires going to them. I did re-build some car audio systems at home for my earlier cars, but I did not meet a similar thing so far.

If I have 2 cables going to the rear speakers, so I think this means I have a 6 speaker system without amp. In case of a 8 speaker setup, I should see 4 wires going to my rear speakers right?

Prove me if I am wrong, but if I have no amp in the factory system, i should be able to directly connect the new head unit through an adapter cable.

Does anyone have an idea or opinion about a NO amp version headunit installation?