matt8

Worth noting. First incident in 7 years so not a common thing to pull out. Fuse taps all day long if you ask me. No wires need cutting!

Hello

Yesterday my car was stuck in P mode and I could not get it into Drive. To make things worse, this happened at the petrol station, blocking a lane up.

Firstly, I removed the physical key from the fob and used it to pull open a plastic tab next to the automatic selection stick. This exposed a switch which you can push in with the physical key in your fob, to override and unlock the automatic selection stick. At least I could then move off. 

Worried I had a more serious problem, I had a look around. I realised my other half had caught her feet by the fuses in the passenger footwell. Because I have used Fusetaps in installing my dashcam, the cover for the fuses is not able to be re-fitted. Her foot had pulled out the fuse I had tapped into, taking out not only the dashcam but also the IGI NO.1 fuse. Evident by it dangling down. 

If I had not seen that dangling cable, I’d have never have resolved it so quickly. If the fuse ever blows, you’ll be in my same position.  

So if you ever get stuck in P, the above will help you unlock it, and will be the first step to diagnosis: has the IGI NO.1 fuse blown?

Hopefully you don’t all get stuck like me.  

Recommend Thinkware. My camera installed in Feb 2017 is still going strong. And doesn’t need the extra box some Blackvue ones do, to turn itself off at a particular voltage drop on the 12v Battery. It’s built in!

I had this issue. Sadly not. You don’t have to remove the bumper entirely but all needs to be detached to get to the back and unclip it.

How do you know the sensor failed? OBD Code?

On 2/15/2024 at 11:19 AM, Mr_Groundhog said:

I found a good garage in my region with Hunter alignment that was willing to do it (not all of them do, when you offer to supply the parts b/c they don't get a cut, which is shortsighted as they didn't get my business in the end), and they've been my garage of choice for this type of stuff since (apart from annual service which i do at the dealer to keep Lexus Relax going).

They charged for the labour of fitting the bushings and the alignment and everyone was happy: 1.5 hours (at 85 quid per hour) and a 100 for alignment plus vat were 273 quid in total. This was in January 2023.

I'm leaving you an image of the most recent specs I got from them a few weeks ago (the image shows the before and after) when i went for alignment. I hope it helps.                    

Hi @Mr_Groundhog

How's your car doing nearly 18 months on?

I am tempted to do this for my car still.

I've looked at the video you posted. Parts are 48076-24010 and 48075-24010.

One only needs to do the front right? There is nothing to do on the rear?

On 4/25/2024 at 2:44 PM, Notamech said:

Sometime in the next few weeks I'll still clean the throttle body, MAF sensor and replace the PCV valve just for good measure.

Any chance of a small write up and some photos please, @Notamech? 😉

10 minutes ago, Banbury23 said:

Thanks for the reply. The service manager has said the wheel will look brand new so I assumed they'd be doing a proper job. Reckon it's worth confirming how they're carrying out the work? I'll definitely make sure they check for structural damage as the part of their ramp they hit the wheel on 'went right through and burst the tyre' in the service managers own words.

Definitely ask what process is. A smart repair is an isolated touch up. Any photos? As someone above mentioned, is it structurally compromised?

A proper job is the removal of current finish and a full finish. I’d be demanding this especially if the wheels were mint before. Might as well do all 4 at that point. 

You don’t want to take advantage but you don’t want the car to look odd with one wheel shinier than the other.

I also change tyres in pairs. Unless tyre was very new, they’ll now have different levels of wear on the same axle. 

On 3/20/2024 at 10:56 AM, Mr_Groundhog said:

What a relief! thanks to the OP for clarifying! 💙

It's a shame that this is all it would have taken the designers/engineers to avoid such a wave of thefts and disappointments (and insurane hikes!) for so many people
Next time someone at work tells you "design is ancillary/secondary" think of this...  (yes im a designer myself)

More than separate buses, the simple thing to do would have been to apply encryption to the bus. 

Maybe posted elsewhere in the thread but an interesting read: https://kentindell.github.io/2023/04/03/can-injection/

3 hours ago, evawillmsa said:

When it comes to purchasing tires for your vehicle, there are a few factors to consider, such as quality, warranty, and longevity. While genuine parts from a Lexus dealer may provide a sense of reliability due to their association with the brand, it's worth noting that reputable local tire shops can also offer high-quality tires that meet industry standards.

I was referring to the TPMS sensors rather than tyres.

I’d happily buy a tyre from almost anywhere. But fitting is a different matter. 

9 hours ago, wharfhouse said:

Oil change intervals are always hottly debated... To add to the thinking, my parents have had a 2012 Audi A3 from new and only do a few thousand miles a year, kept in a garage when it's not being driven. It's always been serviced at their local Audi dealer and a few years ago the dealer said to them given their low mileage don't worry about doing a service every year, just do it once every two years. I found it interesting that a main Audi dealership suggested this given that they were waiving some revenue. My parents didn't initiate the conversation either - they would always do whatever the dealer told them to. It's now a year since their last bi-annual service and the car has only done just over one thousand miles. I checked their car over thoroughly before it went for it's MoT and the oil was as clean as the day it was put in. The car sailed through the MoT with no adviseries once again.

The dealer wants the car to break so they’ll buy a new one. 

Or to buy a new car soon, and to devalue the current car which will be used for part exchange, with “incomplete” service history. 

https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/118184-switching-speedometer-from-mph-to-kph/

2 hours ago, agent_dess said:

@matt8 since Lexus manually adjusted my headlights they seem better, still not been out on a pitch black road but defo feels better in general.  See my other post on how to adjust them manually the easy way.

So what steps did you do for the self leveling initialisation?  I'm still surprised the Lexus technician didn't know about it even when I mentioned it.

Parked it on a flat surface. Headlights to OFF position. No auto.

Press power button twice (no feet on pedals) to get to IGN ON. Check fuel level / to determine number of clicks.

Press power button once to turn car off. 

Press power button twice (again no feet on pedals). Pull stalk toward you (full beams) and hold. Whilst holding, rotate headlight on switch to on (see video above from 2:45) and off 3 times. Once done, headlight levelling indicator on cluster will flash on and off. It’s expecting your further input. 

Then rotate lights to ON (dipped) and off the required number of times depending on fuel level. After that the cluster will be flashing like mad, a little haywire. Switch car off and done.

Took a few goes. Watch the video and read instructions. You'll soon get it!

My thought is that the headlight positioning may need adjusting after 12v disconnected. Last time I did this (new Battery June 2020) it was on a slightly downward facing driveway. Hence my lights aiming lower. Just a thought. No technical knowledge to back this up mind. 

On 11/28/2023 at 11:19 AM, agent_dess said:

Does anyone know how to Initialise Lexus Auto Levelling Headlight on the 3rd gen IS either for the 250/300h/200t?

For a long time its bugged me when driving on dark roads i feel the bulb is aiming too low... if we had the traditional lamp level dial i would have set it to 0 to make high as possible.

This guys talk about it on his RC-F:

But i don't understand how to measure the number of clicks required as the fuel gauge readout on the IS300h is different (i dont even know if this method would even would, but a guy in the comment said it worked on his IS350).

To add to confusion i found a 2014 IS250 where he is adjsuting the headlight using a screwdriver:

Anyone know the correct way to adjust the level and how high is high?

I performed this method as shown in the video. It worked (I got the flashing response on the cluster) and my lights seem better. Could it be placebo? Maybe. I didn’t measure where the light was but it seemed better. Time will tell. 

Club Lexus has this same procedure noted on the forum, a PDF. I found that hard to follow.

The mistake I was first making was pulling the full beams flash (the stalk) before turning IGN to ON. IGN to ON first, then pull the stalk. 

Thanks for posting. Next step might be new HID bulbs. They are over 10 years old now. 

2 hours ago, Boeryeoes said:

Mine wasn't the CX either.  Unit showed S and it still worked like a charm. 

What year is your car?

46 minutes ago, Mr_Groundhog said:

Haha, that was last year! 😀 The bushes got fitted just fine and the car's steering felt a bit firmer and tighter in a good way. I also had the toe corrected through alignment and so far after a whole year had not problem with uneven tyre wear...

Oh! Misreading the date!

Glad it was a good outcome. Those bushings seem easy to fit in that video. Was it simply changing those, toe correction and done? How much labour were you charged at the garage for fitting the bushings?

Which tyre tracking did you go for out of interest?

On 1/11/2023 at 4:22 PM, Mr_Groundhog said:

Thanks!
I ordered the GS-F bushings and they should arrive end of the month from Japan.... in the meantime I booked the car at the garage early Feb... fingers crossed.
Will report back.
I think I saw the adjustable parts for the rear but they were quite pricey.... upwards of 300 USD, and I'm spending quite a bit of money on this car as it is (I ended up buying one that was slightly above my budget).... but would be very curious to hear how it goes if you do fit them.

Great! Keep us posted on how it goes. What date are you booked in)

https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/rac-news/how-the-rac-universal-spare-wheel-fixes-no-spare-breakdowns/
 

I had no idea these existed, good to know. 

My understanding is, tyre shops hate this sealant. And the tyre is ruined if it’s repairable (I.e., a puncture). Can anyone confirm?

Space saver makes sense but space is absolutely a concern. Would the recovery company not just tow you home or to a tyre shop, on the back of their truck? 

If a space saver is the way to go, will one fit either the front or back, with the differing tyre sizes?

Any recommended alignment companies in the Midlands?

6 minutes ago, ChrisIS300h said:

Wow, this is super! Just what I was looking for. I removed the side padding so I can fit three child seats next to each other. I have come to realize that a Lexus has too luxurious back seats for a larger family but now they fit in there just fine! 

 

Thanks for the help. 

How do you mean you removed the side padding? Any photos?

How much are wheel bearings parts, and typically how much labour time for fitting (per wheel)?

Did you replace all 4?

28 minutes ago, wharfhouse said:

New front wheel bearings needed at 80K miles the biggest issue so far.

There is a small sensor on the dashboard, that detects cabin temperature. As a first port of call, a little cleaning of that may help.

Updates as promised.

Early this morning, I was having another look around and found the water coming off the blower motor. So, first step was to remove that.

I took it out from the passenger footwell area. Just unplug one cable, and then 3 screws.

There was not a lot of water in there, but it was definitely wet. With that off, I threw a large mixing bowl of water over the windscreen and it all ran off into the passenger archway (thanks @IS300FSPORT). I left it a while and no water was appearing in the passenger footwell with the motor off, even with this huge amount of water. Tissue in situ to try and catch where it was appearing from.

So, it seems more likely to be water from the air conditioning system. Perhaps water was just slowly dripping out of the motor, hence the leak.

I hope I have reseated the blower motor properly. It seems there is a black spongey seal around the edge and in one place that was glued down, but for most of it, it was loose. Maybe a new gasket can be purchased, if needed. I am keeping an eye on this.

There is a short rubber hose attached to the blower motor mounting frame, and connecting to some plastic that runs behind the centre console. I assume this is the pipe that runs to the underside of the car, to let out any AC condensate. See photo below, can anyone concur? I pulled one side off and it was mostly dry, certainly not full of liquid at all. But as noted, my car is parked at an angle, sidewards, with the passenger side the lower point, so whatever water was in there may very well have drained into the blower motor and therefore the leak.

If this is the condensate pipe (seems like it, this page has part 88539C or 88839 30010 at the top, and a Google shows me it is called the "cooler unit drain"), my efforts should be focused on how I can get this cleared. Perhaps poking and running through a long rigid something into this pipe will clear it, but who knows how long the pipe is. Any thoughts or advice appreciated. Maybe this is the best and easiest way for us DIYers to clear this out, as the pipe under the car is very difficult to get to, even if you have a ramp.

Lots of garages with a backlog of work, so I am troubleshooting all I can till I can get someone to look at it.

44 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

Potential sources of Ingress are the door seal, door bottom drains blocked, door mirror, door membrane if the door card has been taken off at some point, windscreen not bonded or actually coming through the air intake.

Thank you Colin.

The water seems to be dropping from further up toward the firewall, so it’s not looking like a seal.

Will check the scuttle panel for water blockage. Once it collects there, do you know where the water drains?

On 1/17/2023 at 11:19 PM, IS300FSPORT said:

watch the water drain out via a tube under the passenger arch.

Thanks! Where is this drain tube under the passenger arch, do you know?