matt8

Any chance of a small write up and some photos please, @Notamech? 😉

Definitely ask what process is. A smart repair is an isolated touch up. Any photos? As someone above mentioned, is it structurally compromised? A proper job is the removal of current finish and a full finish. I’d be demanding this especially if the wheels were mint before. Might as well do all 4 at that point. You don’t want to take advantage but you don’t want the car to look odd with one wheel shinier than the other. I also change tyres in pairs. Unless tyre was very new, they’ll now have different levels of wear on the same axle.

More than separate buses, the simple thing to do would have been to apply encryption to the bus. Maybe posted elsewhere in the thread but an interesting read: https://kentindell.github.io/2023/04/03/can-injection/

I was referring to the TPMS sensors rather than tyres. I’d happily buy a tyre from almost anywhere. But fitting is a different matter.

The dealer wants the car to break so they’ll buy a new one. Or to buy a new car soon, and to devalue the current car which will be used for part exchange, with “incomplete” service history.

https://www.lexusownersclub.co.uk/forum/topic/118184-switching-speedometer-from-mph-to-kph/

Parked it on a flat surface. Headlights to OFF position. No auto. Press power button twice (no feet on pedals) to get to IGN ON. Check fuel level / to determine number of clicks. Press power button once to turn car off. Press power button twice (again no feet on pedals). Pull stalk toward you (full beams) and hold. Whilst holding, rotate headlight on switch to on (see video above from 2:45) and off 3 times. Once done, headlight levelling indicator on cluster will flash on and off. It’s expecting your further input. Then rotate lights to ON (dipped) and off the required number of times depending on fuel level. After that the cluster will be flashing like mad, a little haywire. Switch car off and done. Took a few goes. Watch the video and read instructions. You'll soon get it! My thought is that the headlight positioning may need adjusting after 12v disconnected. Last time I did this (new battery June 2020) it was on a slightly downward facing driveway. Hence my lights aiming lower. Just a thought. No technical knowledge to back this up mind.

I performed this method as shown in the video. It worked (I got the flashing response on the cluster) and my lights seem better. Could it be placebo? Maybe. I didn’t measure where the light was but it seemed better. Time will tell. Club Lexus has this same procedure noted on the forum, a PDF. I found that hard to follow. The mistake I was first making was pulling the full beams flash (the stalk) before turning IGN to ON. IGN to ON first, then pull the stalk. Thanks for posting. Next step might be new HID bulbs. They are over 10 years old now.

What year is your car?

Oh! Misreading the date! Glad it was a good outcome. Those bushings seem easy to fit in that video. Was it simply changing those, toe correction and done? How much labour were you charged at the garage for fitting the bushings? Which tyre tracking did you go for out of interest?

Great! Keep us posted on how it goes. What date are you booked in)

https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/news/rac-news/how-the-rac-universal-spare-wheel-fixes-no-spare-breakdowns/ I had no idea these existed, good to know.

My understanding is, tyre shops hate this sealant. And the tyre is ruined if it’s repairable (I.e., a puncture). Can anyone confirm? Space saver makes sense but space is absolutely a concern. Would the recovery company not just tow you home or to a tyre shop, on the back of their truck? If a space saver is the way to go, will one fit either the front or back, with the differing tyre sizes?

Any recommended alignment companies in the Midlands?

How do you mean you removed the side padding? Any photos?