Surebet

Thanks Colin for the quick response, is this a job that I could tackle myself or is it best left to a body shop specialist. 

Just noticed rust starting to appear on my rear wheel arches, is this a known issue with Lexus, rust was a really bad issue on my previous car, a Mercedes ( vowed never to buy another one). The bodywork on the Lexus is fantastic for the age and I would be loathed to get rid of it as it has been so reliable and with less than 50K on the clock I was planning to keep it for a long time. Has anyone else had this issue and if so can you advise me on the best course of action.

Thanks VFR for quick response, there is no issue with warranty, long expired.

Only done 800 miles in the last year down to covid restrictions, oil on dip stick looks as good as the day I replaced the fully synthetic oil and filter a year ago.  Any thoughts on whether it is advisable to continue to run on this oil and/or filter for another 6 months or change it now.   

28 minutes ago, Grumps said:

When I last had break down cover I used Start rescue.

Although I never had to use it, the reviews from Which magazine rated it as the 2nd best recovery firm. You will find the prices are very good.

Hi Paul

Thats who i'm with at the moment and like youself never had to use them. Like any insurance policy you never know how good the company is until you go to claim. May just stick with them.

Thanks Alan

Well its that time again, to renew car breakdown and recovery service. There seems to be more and more companies offering breakdown service every year. I've tried many different ones over the years, fortunately never had to use any of them. They all seem to offer similar cover at very different prices, Has anyone had good or bad experiences with any breakdown companies out there.

Certain multimeters will have button you press to simulate load, I'm pretty sure if you tried with old Battery with this type of meter, voltage reading would fall drastically, however new battey would show very little voltage drop. Try new Battery, I sure you will be ok. All the best.

7 hours ago, ganzoom said:

No, not without taking wheels, seat post off, and twisting around handle bars, and with rear bench flat.

Thanks for your reply, you mention rear bench flat, the rear seats in my car are fixed and can't be folded flat. It looks like I'll just have to put up with a bike rack.  

Has anyone with IS250 tried to fit a bike in the boot, would rather do this than fit bike rack. If anyone has managed it, would be grateful for best way to go about it.

Thanks for the replies, good to know about  https://www.lexuspartsdirect.co.uk, always used Toyota filters with no problems, as they say " Don't change a winning team".

All the Best and stay safe.

My car is due for oil and filter change, can source oil easy enough however as all dealerships are closed due to Covid 19 , I'm unable to purchase the OEM Toyota filter required.

I have always stuck to Toyota oil filters, when changing the oil. Other filters are available via internet or Eurocarparts, has anyone used alternative oil filters and found them ok. Also as a matter of interest whats the general opinion on make of oil to use ( 5w-30 fully synthetic). 2012 IS250 covering approximately 3000 miles a year. Look forward to all opinions.

Thanks Keith and John for quick response, good to know I can do overnight charge on Battery without any requirement to visit dealership.

Going to give my Battery an overnight charge due to low use of car recently, is there any requirement to keep power going through car  while this takes place. If car is left 24 hours without any Battery connected will I experience any problems when restoring fully charged Battery.

For brake pads, I just phoned local Toyota dealership and asked for a price for the pads, quoted reg and was given a price. Told the parts guy, thanks for the price but I will just go to eurocarparts as they are much cheaper, he immediately gave me a discount to a near enough price of eurocarparts. Straight down to dealership, Toyota pads and I noticed receipt was put through as a local taxi firm. I know the Lexus dealership parts department don't do any deals and I always feel the dealership have the attitude that they are doing you a favour even dealing with you, hence I steer well clear of them if I can. Maybe worth a call to local Toyota dealership.

9 hours ago, Shaunomercy said:

Some time back I experienced something similar with my Passat.  Every time I went round a roundabout I felt a draught.  It drove me nuts.

Turned out the glove box has a fridge..  there's a nob that you turn in the glove box which allowes cold air from the Aircon straight into the glove box..

I've not a clue if the Lexus had the same kind of thing but it's worth a look.

Took me ages to find the draft.

 

 

Thanks for reply, not aware of any facility like this in the IS250, however will check in glove box and manual. Have to agree with you, its diving me nuts.

In the last 2 months I have been experiencing a cold draft coming into the cabin at the driver’s side.  The draft is coming from underneath dashboard just where my left knee/shin is positioned.

The heater is still working and heat coming from under dash vent. This draft only is evident when car is moving and becomes stronger relative to speed.

All plastic under engine guards are secure and present, coolant level is at correct level.

Although heater working OK, this issue is spoiling the driving experience, especially on a long drive.

Has anyone had this issue or can suggest a solution; I have driven many cars and vans over the years and never experienced anything like this before.

Hi Yorkielexus

Don't know if the CT200H key fob has the metal key enclosed in it like my IS250, if so take  key out and under the boot/hatchback lid where the reversing camera is situated , you will see metal keyhole. the metal key from key fob should then unlock your boot. Hopefully this will work, I know this worked with mine when the boot interior light was left on a couple of weeks ago resulting in a flat battery . Good luck.

Well went down to the garage this morning armed with 2 sets of jump leads however at each lead being only approximately only 5ft long. With the car shoe horned into the garage nose in, I proceeded to make an extension jumper made of heavy duty electrical cable to bridge the distance between the 2 sets of jump leads ( a bit Heath Robinson) however with the snow falling I couldn't be bothered making my way to shop for another set of leads. Followed all advice given on forum and good news, success, car now out garage and gave it a good run this afternoon. Many thanks to all members who contributed good advice.

2 hours ago, Texas said:

Check and double check,even triple check that you Do-Not inadvertently connect any jump or boost battery to the wrong polarity on your battery. Many a post on here ( and ten times more in the US!) of reverse polarity occurring and causing untold ( and £££££'s)  problems.

you may still have the factory fitted battery and at close to 7 years old it may be getting to the end of its life and this extended deep discharge may have tipped it over the edge. You could try giving it a very long low charge ( off the car) to see if can be recovered, but expect the worst ( new 4 year G'tee Bosch should be about £80)

As for 'jump' starting a few basic's, keep engine of good car running, do-not allow cars to come into contact with each other.

Attach Positive ( + RED ) jump cable lead to + (RED) battery terminal on 'dead' battery and the other end of the Red cable to Positive ( +) terminal on good car/battery.

Connect Negative ( - BLACK ) jump cable to Negative ( - BLACK ) terminal on good car/battery then connect other end of Black cable onto a bolt or bracket ( Not Fuel related) on engine of dead battery car.

Allow  at least 30 seconds before attempting to start dead car and after it (hopefully) starts then allow to idle and then turn on Headlights,Fog lights,Heated Windows and heater blower fan and then turn off 'jump' car and remove all connections in the reverse order. Then turn off lights etc.

paul m.

You mentioned a 4 year G'tee Bosch Battery, where is the best place to buy Battery, most batteries appear to have only 3 year G'tee.

Wife went to take car out of the garage tonight, could not get into car. Came back to get my keys thinking Battery in remote flat, still no joy with my set, she tried boot lid and it opened, she thinks it has been left slightly open since last weekend when we last used car.  I got into the car using manual key. When tried to start, got absolutely nothing. Never had flat Battery with any car before. 

Do you think the light in the boot being on all week would flatten the Battery?.

Have jump leads however not long enough as car is nose in . Will see if I can get a loan of another set tomorrow. Any advice regarding starting with jump leads.

Very tidy looking car and really low mileage, think you struck gold with this one. I will be interested to hear after you fit new boot gas struts does it make much of a difference as my boot lid has always seemed quite stiff compared to other cars I've had and I just put it down to the short depth of the boot lid. 

Hope the car turns out to be all you're looking for, it certainly looks the business, all the best. 

Can buy Castrol Edge at £24.50 for 4L, has anyone had experience of this oil. Is it worth a punt or is it false economy. 

12 minutes ago, johnatg said:

I have one from Laser - lasertools.co.uk - tool no 4880. It has three cutouts on one side and one on the other, but actually I think the filter housing only has one lug on each side. It looks pretty much identical to the one I referenced. Don't know where it's made but I'm afraid almost everything is made in China these days - even if the packaging is made in UK!

They are available on eBay and Amazon, but I notice there is a rather cheaper one available from Sealey (also reputable) on Amazon. That has three cutouts each side. Dunno why the number of cutouts varies - maybe for other applications.

Thanks very much for quick response John. 

8 hours ago, johnatg said:

This is the IS forum! All IS models have a non-disposable casing - you need the correct tool to remove and retighten it ( eg this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/64-5mm-14-Flute-Oil-Filter-Socket-Remover-Removal-Tool-For-Toyota-3-8-Drive/122345149365?hash=item1c7c56d3b5:g:WbMAAOSwQiFadeNJ )

Note the cut-outs in the rim - they are the vital bits which engage with lugs on the casing and are the reason why any old filter removal tool will not do.

Tightening torque is 18ft. lbs. - do not tighten it further.

I use K&N filter element inserts. Genuine Lexus ones and other brands are readily available - they are just paper and an O-ring seal. (You get an extra O-ring and a plastic spacer, both of which you chuck away)

Oil is a matter of choice - any 5W-30 fully synthetic will do and you need to change it every year or more often with even normal mileage. Lexus change interval is 12 months or 10000 miles - I change mine at 5000 miles. Extended interval oil changes threaten the life of the timing chains - and replacing them is a major, major job.

Hi John

Thanks for the response, regarding filter removal tool, I notice some are shown with 3 cut-outs on each side and others have 3 cut-outs on one side and only one cut out on the other side. Is this just down to the manufacturer or is one the correct tool for the IS250, contacted Lexus and they cannot supply tool or advise on a particular supplier. Many of the tools on eBay are originating from China and although they are probably OK, I think I would prefer British or American made tools. Is the tool shown in the link you supplied the one you use. I always like buying something other people have had success with.

2 hours ago, TigerFish said:

 

I guess it depends what’s on your car. The GS’s just had standard canisters.

 

Thanks for clearing that up, before posting my previous comment I had watched a you tube on a oil filter change of a GS and the oil filter housing was the same as my IS , must have been a later model. Confusion solved!