iwonder

Alot depends on how much engine movement there is.

Sounds like air in the system causing sensor to vary. Check your radiator for a crack.

Being stranded in the next two weeks is the biggest worry! Hopefully I'll make it back okay! 

The hybrid system already check itself for shorts. When the compressor fails due to incorrect oil, the hybrid system shuts down and you cantt even start the car unless you disconnect the compressor.

It doesn't need replacing, just needs a thorough drain. A recovery will only draw 5-15g of oil. I would get them to remove condensor and compressor to drain and refill with correct oil.
Regas and add oil that was taken out during recovery.

New Catlock as mentioned above

I have just listed diff oil in the classified if anyone needs any. I no longer have an IS250

There is a new version that is supposed to reduce the vibration. I couldn't wait so ended up straight piping my RX

The Battery is more likely to die from water ingress before it fails on its own. Inverter and hybrid Battery are easy to replace. Its not the end of the world in one fails as once replaced it will probably go for another 10+ years.

You can top up with r134a gas. Just make sure there is no oil included in the top up bottle.

Genuine is tried and tested so nothing wrong with them. Its the calipers that need the most attention when doing discs and pads otherwise it won't be long till you need another set of brakes.

Genuine brakes are about £140 and aftermarket £100. Labour will be dependant on hourly rate so expect to pay approx £160-200 at a garage.

Just to add worn lower arms can throw out castor which will affect return to center steering and can cause a pull

Mileage isn't the main issue for suspension wear. It's the area its driven that matters. My car was mostly motorway miles throughout its life and suspension bushes were perished. Since i've had had it mostly town driven, ive managed to tear both bushes. Bumps everywhere around my area and I take them had higher speeds than I would if I had a firmer riding car. The same can happen to trailing arms. £60 arms with a cheap bush wont last in the same circumstances as a genuine setup. I have fitted lemforder lower arms in the past which were starting to crack 12 months on. 

It will pass the MOT without the center cat. Don't forget the RX has a cat in each manifold which is monitored so no EML. As mentioned above hybrids don't apply for the emissions testing therefore doesn't apply for the inspections related to that, which is checking the cat is fitted. Straight pipe or add in a silencer.

Blank of the pressure sensors, go for a long run and activate the regen.

It's worthwhile replacing the fluid in the gearbox. Lexus advise every 60k for heavy use applications. If you remove the sump pan and strainer it will drain most of the oil.

I haven't read every post but have you check your reservoir for hairline cracks?

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Are both wheels jacked up when yo checked ARB? and if steering lock is on, you will get that noise.

Your use doesn't match the needs of the IS220D to give it half a chance of being reliable. If anything, it will just make the common problems occur faster. I agree with those that say get petrol. The savings on repairs will more than make up for the insurance diffrence.

They are only recommended for replacement at 60k for severe conditions (taxi usage, stop start/short distance) but I personally would do it at 60k regardless as all oil deteriorates.

12 hours ago, Linas.P said:

It might be wrong picture, the ones in the picture looks like rear shims, not front.

@iwonder - I referred to Lexus OE shims in my post. OE shims are made from non-ferrous metals.. I am not sure if it is some kind of Aluminum or Stainless steel alloy, anyhow they don't rust. Non-OE shims if made from ferrous metals obviously can and will rust.

The photo was just an example and they are lexus OE, all shims I have binned have been due to corrosion and falling apart, they are all genuine shims. Most of the lexus range use the 2 piece shims (Inner is typically coated and rusts, outer is usually the stainless shim)

On 5/12/2018 at 4:37 PM, Linas.P said:

The shims do not corrode, they might be dirty or rusted from the brake dust

Unfortunately they do corrode if they are coated (black shims usually). Stainless ones do not obviously. 

If you are replacing the ARB drop link, use locking pliers to stop it rotating and undo the nut. Helps if you clean the threads with a wire brush and soak the nut in a rust penetrant. Loosen a few turns and tighten back one. This is how I do pretty much all drop links unless is has a flat for a spanner. 

17 minutes ago, finest1 said:

ive seen a lexus shim kit for £34. is that any good.  if I went with the anti squeal pad or tape where do I place these exactly?

Front or rear? good price as I remember buying shims for double that.
"To use these anti-squeal shim kits - cut with scissors to shape required and apply these shims to the reverse side (painted side) of the brake pads to prevent brake noise. The fibre must cover all areas contacted by the hydraulic pistons or the caliper supports."
I just cut the pads in the shape of the original shims and the stick to the back of the pads. Only apply 1 pad per brake pad, if you apply more than 1 your brake pedal will hit the floor when you brake with little resistance.