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Magic7032

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Posts posted by Magic7032

  1. My alloys are shocking except one which I’m guessing was the spare for a long while, but having seen how quickly they deteriorated when I first saw the IS in release I’m hopeful they are not going to get a whole lot worse. May get them refurbed but they drive me a to b and I can’t see them so meh for now

     

    edit: should have said I also have to park next to kerbs every day (no driveway) and the plastic wheel trims on my old car looked like I’d taken a power sander to them

  2. Well I’m late to the party and only thought thermostat, and won’t hurt changing the water pump and belts as well I case the impeller has gone

    what was the radiator like when you bought it, was it full? Mine was just full of water so I suspected a poor owner prior to me and changed everything (always planned too) and runs like a dream now 

    • Thanks 1
  3. Issue 2) does it condense on the windows on sunny days as well? I’ve found in the past having to leave sunroof cracked so it ‘escapes’ and in the summer leaving windows and sunroof open to get it as dried out as possible. And in winter trying to get the least amount of water in. If you are drying the windows make sure all cloths and tissue etc are not left in the car as will add to humidity as well, (my 306 taught me a lot about condensation, especially in winter with frost on the inside) although it got a lot better after a good summer, which I appreciate is a way off

    • Like 1
  4. So amp out, take off glove box completely ( not like me who leant on it whilst dangling and snapped a hinge)

    I took off the bottom side plastic plate, covering fuse box, screwed on at back and clips down door frame side

    nut at top of amp holding bracket and one under glove box area holding other bracket 10mm hex. then top and bottom brackets have 2 screws each, 8mm (hex) and then both are zip tied to a thick wire loom.

    it is clearly mounted before anything else goes in so doesn’t have a natural out but got it out through the bottom carefully as there are a lot of wires that are tightly mounted, 

    wish id taken more photos, but failed, shredded knuckles, and only photos are end cables and back of amp, the brackets were difficult to remove as at best was a quarter turn at a time and the top one has raised curved sides

     

    now to find the bypass cable

     

    EDIT, amplified bypass PC2-92-4, non amplified PC2-93-4

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  5. Before I start I have spent quite a few hours looking and reading posts, but most are old and photos no longer available and also many post were pre having 3rd party harnesses available, I’d prefer to avoid cutting and splicing 

    ive removed the 6cd changer, got the new fascia, got a stereo, got everything I thought I needed and built and framed it etc, went to plug it in and no go.

    the plugs that are quoted and in the set I bought have 2 separate connections but only 1 come out of the back of the CD player and are all different shapes. I have read I may need to access the amp wiring but it’s pretty tight around the amp so will wait before having to remove if required

    photos, CD player back, cable plugs into right side socket then I assume through the dash behind the glove box to the amp, and other photo is the adapter kit I got which is the same as Halfords etc for a Lexus/Toyota loom

    does anyone have any guidance please?

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  6. So. Heaters are not perfect but are at least now generating heat, am certain it’s just needing a flush and refill which will happen during belts change

    steering, found a YouTube video and the sound was the same. The guy kept filling and emptying the power steering fluid until it went from black to cherryade red so have done the same. Fingers crossed tomorrow is a quieter drive. (The reservoir was empty when I collected the car. As was screen wash and oil is low so that’s getting changed next week as well)

  7. So firstly yes I have read almost every post on every website and watched just as many YouTube videos. As stated blowers are on cold regardless of settings. All of the vents and servos behind the glovebox behave correctly and open/close as they should. If I just use the windscreen vent eventually I get a little warm air out of the side vents.

    my main question is, the pipes going into the cab to the heater matrix from the engine, the bottom one is red hot but the top one is barely warm. Should both be equally hot, my thoughts are a matrix flush as a next port of call. Am to try bleeding again as I’m convinced that the rad was empty prior to me buying it as everything else was empty. And the reservoir was also empty.

     

    as for the steering wheel, only way I can describe it is it sounds like the Microsoft 360 steering wheel which when plugged in had force feedback and would sound like powered gears turning

  8. 6 minutes ago, true blue said:

    Hi Alec,I have serviced my own cars for many years including my previous sport cross; I can assure you that your Lexus is a straight forward car to maintain ,find a small independent garage with a ' hands on' owner and you should have no problems . Lexus parts are of course good and dependable quality ,but I can also recommend Gates brand for timing and ancillary belts ,they are used as original equipment on some makes and are a bit cheaper

    Dave

    Appreciate that, have found mostly gates parts just need a garage now. Have become obsessed with trying to fix the hot air but that a whole other section and not for here....

  9. On 11/01/2018 at 7:40 PM, rich1068 said:

    Excellent. Mileage? History? Any plans for it?

    110k needs belts/water pump, mostly planning on not putting the back end out, rear wheel drive is a steep learning curve. Mostly It needs a good dose of tlc then once that’s done ill start looking beyond the ‘repairs’ stage. Any ideas on price for pump and timing belt changes (am hoping for a good quote from a private mechanic and buy parts separate) Lexus dealer nearly made me choke when she told me the price and what was an ‘extra’ 

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