kayble

A quick update - it seems to have been the ignition switch that was jammed up, I gave it a couple of flat palmed high-fives and it freed up, releasing the steering lock at the same time. It seems to be connected to inserting the smart key in to the switch - if you stick with twisting the switch without the key inserted, it doesn't jam up.

I've sprayed some dry PTFE lube where i can around the switch, with the shrowd removed, and it's moving freely - phew!

also just to say I think it's actually the bit in black that's causing the problem:

 

Some links that appear to describe my issue - I wish I understood the language used in the YouTube video - as I think I'm fighting exactly that issue:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-3rd-gen-2001-2006/801686-steering-lock-warning.html

 

I have just purchased an LS430 and after getting it home on the trailer - it's done exactly this. Whilst i was looking at the car, the ignition switch turned without issue; I get it home and both steering lock and ignition switch are jammed up - great.

I have verified function of the smart access, and the smart key on my scanner (use an active test that beeps if the car see the key); i've tried all manner of jiggling the wheel and column, it won't come free.

I now think I'm looking at removing the lock actuator and ignition switch that's connected to it and seeing if i can work the acutator free whilst it's off the column.

Hello Steve,

Yes, did reg/mot history check - it did seem to check out; but has since sold anyway. I didn't get the best of 'vibes' when I went to see it, but best of luck to whoever did buy it.

Hello all,

I've been to see an LS430 advertised on FB Marketplace - a burgundy (my favourite colour) pre-facelift LS430:

 

 

The car presents well, but not much information available from current seller; I'm wondering if any previous owner(s) are on LOC and wouldn't mind making contact?

Thanks!

This car still for sale by any chance?

 

3 hours ago, Camsnape said:

Hi John,

Mine is behaving itself these days but unfortunately I don't know exactly what the original issue was being caused by. 

I had quite a lot of the interior stripped out and when I put it all back together properl it just seemed to work again. I had the head unit, ac controls, centre dash vents, gauge cluster, VSC switch, heated seat switches and ETC switch all unplugged. Do you have anything like that stripped out of the car at the moment?

nothing at the present time - just a Kenwood double din unit to replace the factory head unit - that's been in for yonks now without problems... really weird.

Hello Ian,

 

Sorry to resurrect an old thread - but my '01 GS300 mk2 is suffering similar codes & symptoms. All seem to have come at the same time; I have

B1261 Engine ECU communication stop

B1262 Air conditioner ECU communication stop

B1266 Instrument panel system communication bus circuit short to Battery (+)

B1271 Combination meter ECU communication stop

B1273 Sliding roof ECU communication stop

B1281 Airbag ECU communication stop

 

That group was my latest scan from my Autel scanner; they're hard codes in that you can clear them, and they come straight back. The group I had before that was:

B1211

B1212

B1213

B1218

B1271

 

I've posted on Cam Snape's post where his GS430 was doing similar things - did you get this fixed on yours in the end - what was the source of the issue?

I'm thinking BCM fault - but that's a complete guess!

Hello Cameron,

 

Sorry to resurrect an old thread - but my '01 GS300 mk2 is suffering similar codes & symptoms. All seem to have come at the same time; I have

B1261 Engine ECU communication stop

B1262 Air conditioner ECU communication stop

B1266 Instrument panel system communication bus circuit short to Battery (+)

B1271 Combination meter ECU communication stop

B1273 Sliding roof ECU communication stop

B1281 Airbag ECU communication stop

 

That group was my latest scan from my Autel scanner; they're hard codes in that you can clear them, and they come straight back. The group I had before that was:

B1211

B1212

B1213

B1218

B1271

 

Did you get this fixed on yours in the end - what was the source of the issue?

 

Best,

 

John

 

waking up an old thread - grille still available?

 

Fast forward to the final result for now:

First sub in the car is a 10" Infinity Basslink that I had spare in the garage. I like this a lot because its a simple solution to drop straight in, and sounds good if you're not looking to knock doors down as you drive by.

Me personally, I would like more bass than this can give (which is totally adequate for now) - so I'm looking for 10" subs to drop in to a sealed enclosure that I have ready, or ported enclosures with one or two 12" subs - if I'm lucky enough to find any that fit that shelf area.

Summarising this somewhat, but here's the boot with all the trim removed and the cables fished through from the cabin:

Power comes from the engine bay and is cable tied to the existing loom under the carpet. ground comes from an existing point behind the rear seat, line audio is rather awkardly down the centre of the car until it comes under the rear seat.

Here, I've laid some adhesive sound deadening material on the shelf, then used a lot of industrial velcro to secure an MDF board to the floor; the sub will be mounted on the MDF to save drilling the car body:

With the factory sub removed, I've put some more sound deadening on the rear parcel shelf - just to try and keep it from vibrating too much:

 

Hello all,

Apologeis for the lack of update - car's been behaving great, and I've made a start on one of my big(ish) projects - a subwoofer install.

I want to use the raised shelf at the back of the boot - so as to retain access to the spare wheel - so main point is I'll be removing the factory sub and using a box that takes up that shelf space and no more.

For wiring in the engine bay - the objective was to be as invisible as possilbe, no silly large gauge wire, big fuse holders or after market Battery clamps (although I accept the need for all in certain circumstances).

Used a Rockford Fosgate 8awg OFC kit wiring kit for power & ground; power comes straight from the Battery via a 60amp fuse mounted close to the Battery tray, and used an existing grommet for vehicle wiring loom to get in to the cabin.

Battery tray removed, and grommet opened for batt + cable in to the cabin. I did try to use the larger grommet to the right - couldnt get enough space so put it all back in to place - it's open in this shot though:

Closing both grommets, using corrogated plastic sheething and mounting the fuse holder (plus a liberal spray of fluid film anti-corrosion spray:

Crimping a Battery terminal (not glamorous but what the hey):

Finished product with the Battery and tray re-installed:

batt + cable installed on the factory terminal:

All fits under the factory terminal covers - and the new fuse is servicable with the vehicle Battery in place:

 

I won't bore you with fishing the cable through the cabin - save for getting in to the boot via the back seat. Followed this tutorial for removing the back seat and rear parcel shelf - to get the power cabling for the sub through to the trunk, and remove the factory sub: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-2nd-gen-1998-2005/552625-2gs-stock-subwoofer-replacement-w-pics.html

Mine looked like this with it all stripped out and the rear seat pulled forward for acces:

More to come in a moment!

 

Odd.. this car didn't sell at ~2.9k, so the logical thing to do is re-advertise it for thousand pounds higher asking price?!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F174075064388

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Mine was 650 for stainless the way back from the down pipe - I wanted some more noise!

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I have the NOCO GB40 unit in my garage, left on permanent charge via nearby USB equipped power outlet in the garage.

Very high quality bit of kit.

Was impressed enough to also get the NOCO smart charger - but am now also looking for a regulated power supply to use when doing diagnostics work.

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That car has been advertised for aaaaages now, having come down from a higher price previously.

Shame about the bad experience- half wish I had a good 430 to sell as there does seem to be good interest in them.

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I’d ditch the satnav. I can count on no fingers how many times I used my Lexus Nav.... lol.

A decent modern double din unit could mirror your smart phone display and use your mobile satnav apps (or an android head unit can have satnav installed).

If it helps, I have a standard ac control unit that I used when I removed my factory sat Nav unit (which obviously has the heater controls built in).




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Ah that's a good point- so you can use the non navigation HVAC controls in combination with a double din - as a retrofit for a navigation equipped car?

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Just about the only thing that's annoying me about my recent purchase is the sound from the standard head unit and speakers. It's a nav unit too so I don't really want to lose that but the system sounds very bass heavy and woolly. I've resigned myself to adjusting bass and treble every time I switch sources (oddly cassettes seem to do best on this system) but it lacks clarity and I wondered if some replacement quality tweeters might help?
Any thoughts? And how do you access just the tweeters?

I'd strongly recommend ditching the factory navigation and going for a touchscreen double din. Mine is a Kenwood android auto unit, so I hook my phone up to a usb outlet in the centre armrest cubby, and the car then had spotify, google maps, handsfree etc.

If you look earlier in my thread, you'll see what I did - if you plan on upgrading the sound system, you'll be pulling the door panels to get to your factory speakers - at which point access to the tweeters should be self explanatory.

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It's failed 5 MOTs - having covered a relatively short distance for lifespan; seems at odds with it being one owner and 'stunning'. Will also have the earlier brake booster that's more susceptible to expensive failure - but does indeed look rather clean.

I'd want a good poke around underneath to look for corrosion; even if it's clean I still think it's well overpriced.

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Need to get this on Techstream and look at live data. Clear codes and do zero point calibration, then see what comes back.

 

Live data will tell you what's going on with the wheel speed sensors for a start...

 

And check basics: Battery voltage at idle, security of pos and neg Battery connections.

 

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Was that all the active codes the car had stored? That seems to be a report from just one module

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Rich, want to share them? Dint make any rash decisions - I'm happy to help (if I can), if the car ever finds itself in liverpool.

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Rich,

Are you a DIY'er?

Recommend you drop your sill covers and have a thorough poke around your arches,sills and wheel wells - scrub/clean/seal/weld now rather than regret not find rust later down the line.

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Possible underlying fault. Techstream can read thr module specific codes that may be causing it.

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