shogunswb

Just had a thought that if I buy the LHD version surely the internals will be the same & I can just swap them over?

Pipe outlets are on the other side. If you have a left hand drive model & you need a new cylinder there one for about £11 on Amazon delivered, otherwise I'm looking at about £140

Does anyone know where I can get a new brake master cylinder for a 2008 IS220d. The only ones I can find are for left hand drive cars or stupidly expensive.

Checked the booster valve & that seems to be working ok but if I pump up pressure on the pedal & hold it with the engine running & then switch the engine off the pedal pushes up slightly suggesting that the booster is loosing pressure.

Replaced both front callipers & the brake pedal feels better without the engine running, only goes down about half way first push & solid feel, not spongy, but when I start the engine the pedal sinks to the floor although there is more braking effect going on now, enough to engage the ABS in the wet but I don't think it would active in the dry. Could it be something to do with the booster unit/valve?

Only clamped the rears as I only changed them & yes freed them off, cleaned them up & just took them off again to make sure I wasn't being a numpty. BUT I thought that I would take the front callipers off & the nearside bottom pin was also seized & I have just sheared off the pin trying to release it😡 Just ordered two new front callipers complete so will let you know. For a car with 95K & a FSH thats pretty crap.

Trying to bleed the brakes on a 220d 2008 using Techstream but when I go into the ABS/../... menu there is no utility button on the left of the screen so cannot access the bleed function. Has anyone managed to do this on a 220d or is it not available on this model. Using v12.20.024 & a mini-vci J2534 OBD usb connector.

I've got a problem with my sons car in that after changing the rear disc's & pads the brake pedal now goes to the floor first push & won't stop the car but a second push of the pedal is ok. It had a long travel before the change & as both rear callipers was seized thought this must have been the reason. Clamped the flexi pipes with a proper clamp & opened the bleed nipple when pushing the pistons back & bled the calliper after fitting new parts just to make sure. Got hold of the techstream software but there is no utility button on the ABS/.../... option so cannot bleed the brakes using the software & there are no warnings etc showing in the tech stream software. I've clamped both rear flexi pipes & the pedal still goes to the floor so can't be anything with the rear callipers (bled the rear callipers again pushing plenty of fluid through). I'm not convinced it's air in the system as the pedal isn't spongy once pressure has been pumped up & cannot see it's the master cylinder as there is only a little creep on the pedal with pressure applied & then stops which is quite normal for a diesel. Not loosing any fluid so I'm at a loss. Does anyone have a full brake circuit diagram of a 220d 2008 so that i can see what part there are other than the obvious ones?

It doesn’t feel like air because the pedal isn’t spongy. It feels more like badly adjusted drum brakes where it takes the first push of the pedal to move the shoes onto the drum then the second push is needed to apply pressure. Having said that we are going to try & get the Techstream software & bleed the brakes using that.

Bit of a problem has now occurred. Before touching the brakes it had a very long brake pedal but had recently been through an MOT, a courtesy test at Lexus & a service where they tested it again on the brake balance rollers & all ok or so it seemed. Anyway got new rear disks & pads & drivers side was partially seized with the pad on the piston side down to metal & the other one two thirds worn but cleaned it all up re-greased & reassembled with new disk & pads no problem & bled the calliper to make sure. Passenger side was fully seized & required heat & quite a few blows with a club hammer to remove but again all cleaned up & re-assembled ok with new parts & bled the calliper. Problem is that now the brake pedal goes to the floor on he first push but ok on the second push & yes we did pump the pedal first to take up the slack on the new pads. Took it for a little test drive with a little bit of left foot braking & all disk started to blue up so all the callipers are working ok in terms of pushing the pads onto the disks but it would appear that the callipers are retreating too far when the pressure is released. Anyone come across this before or got any suggestions?

Thanks everyone. I think I will try to loosen the nipple & do it that way to be on the safe side but if not at least I know that I can push the pistons back without fear or causing damage to the ABS system.

Need to get a new radiator for my sons IS220d 2008 & just wondering if anyone has any suggestions on where to get it from & more importantly where not to get it from. Thanks

Need to change the pads & discs on the rear of my sons IS220d 2008 & just wanted to check that it's ok to push the pistons back without loosening the bleed valve so that the fluid drains out rather than being pushed back through the ABS. The reason I ask is because with my Mitsi Shogun (& a few others) if you push the fluid back through the ABS it knackers it & obviously I don't want to do that. Also any tips or problems that I should be aware of when doing the job(I know about the seized pins from other threads). Thanks

I saw the 5th gear vid but was a little stupid to put it mildly. This is from the AA website: More importantly, putting petrol into a diesel tank causes more damage. That’s because diesel acts as a lubricant, helping the fuel pump to do its job. Petrol, on the other hand, causes the reverse to happen: it actually increases friction between parts in the diesel engine. And that’s never good news for an engine. So the more petrol that gets pumped through your diesel fuel system, the more damage it will do. Common rail (or HDi) diesel engines are particularly susceptible to damage from misfuelling. If the damage is extensive, you could be looking at new fuel pumps, injectors, pipes, filters, fuel tank – or even a whole new replacement engine. Not good.

It had about 2/3 of a tank of diesel or slightly less & they put in about a 1/3 of a tank so it was a mix but on smelling the mix it was more petrol than diesel if you know what I mean. My main concern is the injector pump as I know that it's lubricated by the diesel & by adding the petrol it's function to lubricate is severely affected & can cause massive wear as well as causing problems with the seals & injectors, like you mentioned. It also burns quite a bit hotter so can cause head problems as well as exhaust but to be honest that's probably helped clean out the dpf. I heard of quite a few situations before where once the system has been flushed through all appears well & then a few months (or longer) down the line, the injector pump fails costing many, many thousands of pounds to fix, or the head gasket blows as a result of the contamination, hence the 6-12 months.

Sorry forgot to mention it's an IS220d with about 100k on it.

Hi I recently had my car serviced by a garage & on the way home it started to behave a bit strangely & was difficult to start when it was warm. To cut a long story short they had filled it up with about 1/3 petrol not diesel & it was run like this for about 3 hours & about 100 miles until I realised the problem. My question is has any other members had any damage to either the fuel system, engine or exhaust with similar circumstances even if it wasn't apparent for 6 - 12 months? Thanks