Lwerewolf

It does have it, you just need the absolute latest version. For whatever reason.

Probably because the actual 3rd facelift of the 3GS (with the different wheels, clear tail lights, veeery chromey front grille, lack of cassette tape & so on) has a different part number for the pop-out buttons assembly. AFAIK, it's extremely rare to find such a car, let alone wrecked. Wouldn't lose much sleep over this.

EDIT:
GS460 seems to have had this from the get-go. Weird.

Cheaper is not just as good - ESPECIALLY when it comes to all-season tires.

I'd consider the heretical option of going with summers + a second set of all-seasons for the "off-season". All-year-long all-seasons might also be a good option if you don't get any extreme weather (that includes heat waves). Over here the summers can get to ~34+ and the winters can sometimes (albeit somewhat rarely nowadays) be in the always minus (and somewhat often -10+...errr -) ranges, so I have two sets.

Re: brands you listed - add Continental, bridgestone, goodyear. Then go on tyrereviews and scour it 🙂

All RHD 3GS (GWS191) and Crown GWS204 (it is RHD only anyways) inverters should be interchangeable. MK4 is different (LS600h-style double-side cooled IGBTs, practically eternal). If you look around (you know, google 😛 ), you can find a lot of info about our particular inverters and what works (including putting in a camry hybrid IPM) and what doesn't. Since there are plenty of RHD 3GS inverters - just drop a new one it.

Aaaaand again - get codes first, make sure it's not something else. RHD inverters are cheap, but the Battery is a somewhat significant expense.

Just saying.

If you don't alter your criteria, you're stuck looking for a GSh. JDM specifically, given that you want sub-6sec 0-62mph/0-100kph 😛(JDM & USDM have shorter final drive)

Swap in the newest that you can find, RHD inverters are plentiful. Check the fuses in the big engine bay fuse box, ICGT (no. whatever) is very likely shot. While you're at it, swap in a 3.769 JDM(/USDM) final drive diff for better just-about-everything.

...actually, read the codes beforehand... in case it's unrelated.

As I wrote somewhere else - make sure the engine idles (i.e. maintenance mode). You won't get the proper fluid level if the engine isn't idling either (1000rpm).

"Manual" in "6th" gear doesn't keep the engine running at standstill. Also, manual mode in at least 5th gear downshifts at a lower speed - which is a bit problematic, given how hot the inverter can get in that range. Haven't researched this much.

High spring rate + lack of rebound damping + internal stiction due to lack of oil, water ingress, rust, whatever = bouncy/choppy/you name it.

Shocks leak / blow with age, which CAN (and 99% of the time - does) make the ride way stiffer - lack of rebound damping, for example. They can also seize / bang up internally from lack of lubrication.

I'd swap all fours. Prepare for sticker shock.

Value of 17 clicks is how many discrete positions the stepper motor can turn.

P.S. My fronts looked pristine on the outside, but under the AVS covers... 😛

I've been driving with Amsoil ATF for like 100k km already. Conveniently has better copper corrosion characteristics. Plenty of others have swapped, say, a prius' stock trans fluid (conveniently also ATF-WS) for various other ATFs. No reported failures.

I still don't understand how a fluid which is meant to carry fine metal contamination, including clutch pack wear products, can be expected to remain insulating past the "break-in point" of the assembly, but I guess the OEM Toyota fluid is made out of unicorn blood or something.

Electrically insulating trans fluid... yeah, uhhh, sorry, no. Especially the factory fill with all the metal wear contamination. Please.

Here's pretty much all you need to know:

https://slideplayer.com/slide/14432904/ (refill instructions starting at page 28 but I suggest that you go through the whole thing)

TL:DR - prius "transmission" with a 2-speed automatic for MG2.

What ultimately matters is that fluid should be barely dripping through the level plug with the engine running at "idle" (~1k rpm - use maintenance mode, for example) and with the ATF temp being between 30c & 40c. Doesn't matter if you're filling it from the oil cooler hose or from the level plug.

You can't change gears at will on this transmission without techstream - going through the virtual gears does practically nothing. There is also a "reset memory" and a "b1 air bleed" (or b2 air bleed?) function.

Blind guess - check around the ends of the oil supply pipes (two for each head, from the oil pump area). If so - they also have inline metal mesh filters there, replace along with the crush washers 🙂

On 3/7/2022 at 1:56 AM, eleveneleven said:

The 250 will be thirstier but more practical has a more reliable engine/transmission combo, probably less to go wrong overall and you'll be getting better/more modern tech, 

On 3/7/2022 at 1:56 AM, eleveneleven said:

Downsides? looks dated inside, with outdated tech, hybrid battery might be a weak point later down the line along with the CVT gearbox.

The 2GR-FSE/FXE is basically the 4GR-FSE with port injectors and without the intake tumble flap.
The CVT transmission is as stout as it gets. Oil pump bearings (auxiliary), once in a lifetime if required.
The Battery MIGHT be a weakpoint but you've got at least one great independent option in the UK.

The MK3 has inverter issues (potential and very easily avoided if you know what you're doing - read up). The MK4 has pretty much the Battery and the ABS pump as potential big ticket failures. As far as luxury sedans go - very good, especially the 4th gen. Cheap? Not a Corolla, no.

As I told you on another forum, very likely hybrid ECU - a few reports of the inverter taking it down when it blows up. The errors kinda point towards that conclusion. The Battery fuse at the back.. doesn't really fail.

You won't be the first with a car that can't start/run due to a "rattled to disassembly" vvt-i mechanism (read: bolts down the oil pan). I would at least take the cam cover off* to see what the inside look like.

*you did mention having pulled the camshaft out but the "chipped" part shown is the sensor, so...

Have you had an excessive rattling right at startup for awhile?

mk4 also has a bulletproof inverter, different (widely reported better) chassis, a bit more boot space... You miss the touchscreen (I don't really like the mouse pointer thing in cars >_<) but you get more add-in carplay/android auto options (lexion/grom/carlinkit).

Your choice in the end, but my vote is for the mk4.

3.5 miles will have trouble warming up any engine properly in the first place. Still, 2.5l NA vs 1l turbo - I'd go with the turbo on this, just don't skimp on oil quality & change intervals (yet you probably know this). Either way - not a very good use case for a car in the first place.

That's the "self leveling suspension" link. Not sold separately, you can only get the whole assembly (potentiometer + bracket + swingarm + link). Used only for headlight leveling, afaik (perhaps for the stability control system as well, but given how unreliable these can be.. not too sure).

Good series for anybody that thinks this is placebo:

https://edfishjr.com/2020/12/21/basics-of-shock-absorber-tuning/

Enjoy the ride 😄

First step in the service manual for this error is checking and correcting the timing. If the timing is NOT off - it says "replace the ECM (i.e. ECU)". Therefore - pretty certain that it isn't the sensor itself. Bank 1 on the 2GR-FSE is UK (RHD) driver's side, which is where the high pressure fuel pump is... which complicates the "remove the valve cover" matter a bit. Very rare and/or weird on a 2GR-FSE... What's the mileage, and what kind of driving/oil has it seen, if I may ask?

Re: fuel filter - it's not the easiest or cheapest of jobs, no wonder you haven't done it yet 🙂

TPMS... I'm running hamaton sensors now (just the cheapest that I found) that I'm too lazy to replace the batteries on the OEM ones (involves spot-welding, can do it with normal solder too but meh). You will need techstream to program them in regardless... and something to read the aftermarket sensors' IDs if they aren't printed on them (rtl-433 works wonderously).

IMO if you can find the actuator, the rest isn't that hard - you should have techstream (with a proper adapter) while owning such a car regardless.

Whether it's worth it or not - up to you. These cars aren't the cheapest to run, even though they are pretty much at the top of the reliability ladder as far as luxury rwd sedans are concerned.

1) 3rd gen GS430/450h/460(?) (and 4th gen 450h) share brake actuators (LHD/RHD-specific... somewhat). The GS300 and GS350 (not sold outside in Europe) share a vacuum-based system. The rest use EBD (electronic brake force distribution i.e. brake by wire) - the actuator has a DC motor to make pressure, a hydraulic accumulator pre-pressurized with nitrogen to store pressure and the solenoid block to control pressure release to/from the individual calipers. Failsafe lines directly from the brake master cylinder go to the two front calipers - without any power assist whatsoever, so don't get any funny ideas 😛
2) Theoretically possible to bleed the system afterwards without techstream:

Practically - depends. Whether the pedal dance will be the same on hybrids and non-hybrids and on earlier/later generations - I don't know. You also need to bleed the line between the brake fluid reservoir and the actuator - usually done with a pressure cap adapter on the reservoir and opening an auxiliary/service port near the actuator's inlet (so that air/fluid can exit out of it as you pump up the pressure in the reservoir). There's also the actual master cylinder to bleed as well... etc, etc - you can find the service information online, pretty much all cars with EBD are the same.