Farnham Dave

By George, that's a lot more sensible than the other technique! I'll give it a bash tomorrow, weather permitting. Thanks

Hi again everyone. Hope you had a good Christmas and that the new year is good, too.

I have an issue with the (auxillary) 12 volt Battery going flat when the car is standing. It's a nearly new Battery, bit I am aware that a new Battery can be faulty.

I have fitted a Battery isolator switch for when the car is left standing, which resolves things (in a rather unsatisfactory way!).

I detect no parasitic drain on the Battery when the car is resting. I haven't tested it yet with the alarm turned on, though... Which might be tricky to do, but I'm probably going to have to give it a bash.

What I have measured is the voltage of the Battery (12.5v), then left the car for a day with the Battery connected and the alarm on, and measured it again... 12.25v. both measurements taken with the Battery disconnected. According to a handy table I've found, this represents an estimated reduction in charge state from 90% to 50% in just 24 hours😵. Given that it's a 45Ah Battery this is equivalent to a 750mA drain, assuming my calculations are correct.

My hunch is a problematic alarm or a knackered Battery. I will see if I can establish drain again tomorrow, but with the alarm enabled.

Any other car, I would have fitted a more macho Battery, but Lexus haven't provided enough space for one (on the basis that we don't need cranking amps on a hybrid).

Any advice welcome.

41 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

I believe the immobiliser control unit is separate to the engine ECU on the 400h so an ECU with the same part code should plug straight in.

 

I will say that it is extremely rare for an ECU problem so I'd rule out other possibilities first.

Thanks for that. Definitely looking at other issues that could be contributing. Personally, I'm expecting/hoping that the new ignition barrel should fix things... But if it doesn't, at least the worst case scenario has lost its teeth now... You've done wonders for my blood pressure😀

7 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

Buying a used one from a breaker is the best option. I'm sure it is possible to clone a Toyota ECU but they aren't as programmable as European manufactures, so I wouldn't go down that route if at all possible.

So, can I just plug a used RX400h ECU in, or does it have to be programmed for my specific vehicle?

On 1/21/2021 at 4:54 PM, Herbie said:

If it's been fitted correctly then yes, it will have stopped the drain - but it will also stop everything else too.

Every time you switch it back on you'll have to reset the windows, sunroof, radio, clock etc., and, of course, while it's off the alarm and immobiliser will be off too. These things are really meant for situations where you may be putting the car into storage for months on end.

I'm aware of these as issues. Car is in for service at the moment. Looks like it's the ignition barrel and/or driver's courtesy light switch that's contributing to problems. Also, might be a problem with the ECU, but that's for another thread

Finally got the car to the dealer for service now that covid-19 is in retreat. 

Been having some odd problems which they've been looking into for me.

Long story short, ECU might need replacement. I'm hoping not to spend the £2000 mentioned, either because it's ok after all, or because I find a cheaper alternative.

I notice there are ECU "specialists" out there who can clone the old faulty unit, and then fit as a replacement. Anyone had experience of these companies?

Other option (or maybe not) is buying a used ECU from eBay and fitting that. Again. Anyone know if this is even possible?

On 11/22/2020 at 9:40 PM, Russell Wheeler said:

Guess this would work then   - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153977637146?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

At the moment I am sorting out some body damage, it can't be doing the battery good to completely discharge it.

I bought an emergency jump starter recently (a little bigger than that one), and it works pretty well. Basically a rechargeable usb power pack, but with 12v clamps for car starting, too. Would link to it, but can't find where I bought it from.

My car's getting left for days or weeks at a time, and it drains the Battery regularly (I suspect that the Battery has now had it). So I've bought this Battery isolator switch: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B019XQRHBG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

FItting went smooth enough. I'm going to try the car tomorrow, and then at increasing intervals after that to see if it's stopped the drain. Updates to follow.

Yes, I could get into trouble for driving around for the sake of it (not that any one else seems worried about that!), but I'm buggered if I'm going to miss my vaccine spot because of a non starting car. 

35 minutes ago, royoftherovers said:

For several years my GS rested connected to a Solar Charger for periods of up to 3 months while I was away in Spain.

No problem.

I'm guessing it was newer at the time, so the hybrid Battery was probably less fussy. My RX is nearly 14 years old, which is probably old for any Battery technology, so I'm erring on the side of caution.

22 hours ago, Herbie said:

It will indeed be a non-starter but you'll have to call out the dealership or other suitably qualified company with the special gear to get it going. The traction battery is approximately 288v and people like the AA and RAC etc., can't deal wth that.

23 hours ago, NemesisUK said:

This is Lexus doc on battery maintenance during storage

 

Maintainace of hybrid battery.pdf 408.77 kB · 3 downloads

I am now a very happy bunny. Turns out I picked a really good storage company. They read up on it before receiving the car, and have been doing the correct routine monthly! 

27 minutes ago, NemesisUK said:

This is Lexus doc on battery maintenance during storage

 

Maintainace of hybrid battery.pdf 408.77 kB · 3 downloads

Thanks for that. It's very nearly 2 months since it went into storage, and was sitting for a couple of weeks before that. I suppose I should ask the storage people to run through the 30 minutes of READY process to charge up the hybrid Battery.

I wonder what will happen if the hybrid Battery goes completely flat? I'm guessing it will be a non-starter.

On 5/2/2020 at 10:53 AM, PCM said:

In these strange times, my car is 'resting'.

I trickle charge the battery regularly.

Put some fuel stabilzer in the tank.

Keep the foot brake off.

Move back or forth 12-18 inches to try to avoid flat spots on the tyres...

 

 

Mine is testing in a storage facility. They are running a top up Battery conditioner on the 12v Battery.

However, now I'm thinking about it, I'm a little concerned about the hybrid Battery. Does anyone know what happens to it if unused/uncharged for a period of time (months)?

On 2/21/2020 at 10:57 PM, Herbie said:

Very good - but I still reckon you're overthinking it.

I've passed the same driving test as you and I'm more than happy using just door mirrors, as are many hundreds of thousands of people, every day.

EDIT:

I know you want the camera/phone combination to take the place of the rear view mirror, which means that you must intend on having the display on all the time but, seriously, I think you need to look at the screengrab below, particularly the yellow highlighted part. This is the reason why dash cams with LCD screens only have the screens 'live' for a couple of minutes when they first power up and then they must blank the screen off.

Not doing anything about this at the moment, since I'm sheltering and the car's in storage. But while I can adjust the position of the phone to be compliant, I didn't know about the continuous footage thing. I'm going to read up on this at some point... There are LCD display rear view "mirrors" out there, which are also on all the time. If I find any additional info, I'll post it.

Yes! I'm not doing any more at the moment, because I'm in self isolation.

But here's a link to the camera... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Reversing-Wireless-Magnetic-Waterproof-Compatible-305-Camera/dp/B07W4FKPTT

Don't forget that the magnet in it is only rated to a speed of 60mph, hence my use of extra magnets.

Magnetically mounted external camera (WiFi with rechargeable battery). Instructions say not to exceed 60mph, so there's a thick chunk of neodymium magnets on the inside of the rear door. I've just had a quick fast journey, and checked position... Hasn't moved.

I've resurrected my old second generation Motorola phone. Factory reset, downloaded Safety cam app, then removed user account and WiFi connection just to be in safe side.

All seems fully functional and correct. Inside magnets are wrapped in a nitrile glove to protect the bodywork, but I need to do something on the outside to stop any grit getting between camera and panel (noticed one small scratch already). Will probably use blank vinyl decal or something. Next step is the barrier behind the front seats.

I might be trying it out today, once I've resurrected my old phone (to be used as a "mirror")

I tried a wing mirror extender.... It flew off... Never too be found again. Just glad the motorway was empty.

Am considering it

On 2/16/2020 at 6:53 PM, Prince Bob said:

Does anybody suffer from torque steer on their RX450h?

I know the weather is rubbish at the moment but a couple of times today had that violent tug from the wheel when attempting to pull out a junction quickly. Most of my cars have been rear wheel drive so this is a new sensation for me

Is there a way to lock the car in 4 wheel drive mode to reduce the torque steer? Don't think it's an issue with the tyres as its running Bridestone Duelers all round, although I'm open to suggestions.

Yeah, get it on my RX400h... Found it was worse if the tyres were overinflated, if that's any help.

I would use the side mirrors, except that the they don't really tick all the boxes on the motorway if your rear view is blocked.

People are expecting a van to not be able to see behind it, but they're not expecting that of a car.

Sorry for upsetting you all.

This isn't as bad as it sounds. I need to transport partner's stuff from uni occasionally, and go camping occasionally.

While the luggage involved isn't heavy, particularly, it will fill even the RX to the roof with the rear seats folded down.

I don't plan to drive around with a dangerous load obscuring my view, or threatening my safety. So this is my plan of action. I don't intend any of these adaptations to be permanent fixtures, to damage the car, or to impede safety.

1. WiFi camera mounted on rear of car via magnet.

2. Old phone to act as pseudo-mirror on windscreen, fed from the camera 

3. Roof height barrier behind front seats.

I am currently working on (1). I'll post some info when I'm successful... And successful includes being able to drive on fast roads without losing the camera.

Plan is that all can be set up our removed in minutes.

Comments and suggestions welcome

On 1/2/2020 at 3:39 PM, Farnham Dave said:

Have now replaced bulbs with LEDs in reversing lights, and removed the extra deflectors... Whose purpose seemed purely to limit lighting of the reversing light to the lower half. While I was there, LED-ed the interior light on the the rear door trim, too. Haven't tested properly yet, since it's not dark at the moment.

Noticed that the light clusters l on the rear seem to be designed so they can be opened up, so might look at those sometime (could do with removing some water ingress).

Had reversing lights like this for a couple of months, now. Have to report it's done the job beautifully.

On 11/13/2019 at 3:09 PM, Farnham Dave said:

Have checked with my insurer, and for the ok from them (Co Op eco)...

Have now replaced bulbs with LEDs in reversing lights, and removed the extra deflectors... Whose purpose seemed purely to limit lighting of the reversing light to the lower half. While I was there, LED-ed the interior light on the the rear door trim, too. Haven't tested properly yet, since it's not dark at the moment.

Noticed that the light clusters l on the rear seem to be designed so they can be opened up, so might look at those sometime (could do with removing some water ingress).

20 hours ago, Lager shandy said:

i think your find if you change the bulbs in your rear lights from normal bulbs to led bulbs your modifying your car and so invalidating your insurance .i read this in the sun ,not sure if the story made it into the guardian so thought I would just say lol.

Have checked with my insurer, and for the ok from them (Co Op eco)...

1 hour ago, bluenose1940 said:

Putting only one reversing lamp on cars is still a very stupid idea as was mentioned in a similar thread elsewhere on this forum.  When you are driving in very rural narrow country lanes here in Devon and Cornwall (and other counties too) and on a moonless rainy night and, it becomes necessary to reverse to allow cars to pass each other, it can get extremely difficult.

All in all, a really silly cost saving exercise, very similar to the 'wonderful' idea of dispensing with the spare wheel!

Yep. Or removing the hard shoulder...

2 hours ago, Boxbrownie said:

Most cars only had one reversing lamp because it is only legislation to have one rear fog lamp, the fog lamp must be central or RHS (in UK), manufacturers saw an opportunity to save production costs and complexity by just making the the rear clusters smaller without having redundant unused lamp areas or the cost fitting a rev and fog lamp both sides.

I know, but it bugs me!

15 minutes ago, Barry14UK said:

I have read many (but not all of the numerous posts on this thread) and had a similar thought to Alan.  Furthermore, let's consider the possibility of an accident whereby a motorist was driving along correctly in her/his lane and was involved in an accident in which s/he claimed s/he was blinded by rear reversing lights of a vehicle backing up directly in front.  The stated reason for the accident was investigated and it was found that the car that reversed had had it's lights modified.  I think it highly likely that the person who reversed might be landed with quite a bill.  As someone said earlier in the thread, at one time only a single light was fitted, the purpose of which was to warn oncoming drivers that a car was being reversed.  It was not intended as a major light, otherwise two would be have been been fitted  always and the wattage allowed not limited so low.  (The regs doubtless preceded the introduction of LED's). Fitting an auxiliary back up light could potentially leave you open to more criticism/risk.

Having said that I sympathize with those backing out in dark lanes, made more difficult with the introduction of dark tinted rear screens.

Incidentally, I find it annoying when vehicles park on your side of the road facing you with their headlights left on, which would be like having bright reversing lights on a car directly in front of you.

Mmmmm... Not convinced they'd dazzle, I'll check for that anyway... Regardless of liability, I wouldn't like to be causing that sort of problem.

I'm also going to double check the insurance situation. I'm not convinced a new bulb counts as a mod, but I'll play it safe.

Legally, I checked up on things with a previous car when fitting a reversing camera with lights. It seems that the law doesn't give a hoot about reserving light layout as long as you've got something, and it passed the mot, so I can only assume that that was good advice. Whether the law and the insurance industry agree, of course, is a different matter!