Tomgoode
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Posts posted by Tomgoode
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Firstly congratulations on your purchase
Sorry to hear about the ABS pump . Please get this checked out at the dealer who serviced it and see what they have to say.
Would you describe the sound as "chirping" kind of sound ?
ABS related issues is supposedly a common issue on certain Lexus models; the one I inherited apparently had the same problem but was much worse ( with the warning lights on and everything ). Please bear in mind that the GS430 I have is the very first Lexus I've ever had so I am not really familiar with these cars. I am sure other experienced members will be contributing soon.
Anyway here is some some information that may / may not apply to your GS430. There is a lot of conflicting information, again best to get it double checked.
https://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/4988-abs-noise/
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-2nd-gen-1998-2005/578722-abs-chirping-noise.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-2nd-gen-1998-2005/853453-2002-gs300-chirping-noise.html
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On 2/26/2019 at 4:07 PM, Britprius said:
If the clock spring is responsible for an air bag fault. The code issued is usually a squib circuit code, and this code would point to the steering wheel air bag squib circuit.
Squib circuit codes run from B0100 up to B0138 these codes are for open, and short circuit for each air bag and for seat belt pre-tensioners.The code B1100 does indicate a fault in the sensor assembly.
John
It is the sensor assembly: however no one I spoke to / emailed around here is interested in replacing the assembly because according to them it requires a lot of "stripping" 🙂. It had been independently diagnosed by an auto electrican to B1100 ( Airbag Sensor Assembly Malfunction ) - they keep saying some other sensor / wiring fault must be causing the issue and they would have to exhaust all avenues (whatever that means ).
The diagnostics charges are getting a ridiculuous. Seem to think the code would be cleared out on its own if you put the car thru diagnostic code reader enough number of times 😞 without ever trying to fix the underlying fault.
How difficult is it to get to the Airbag ECU ?
Thanks
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On 2/26/2019 at 9:51 PM, kayble said:
I would go for the one that has the least underbody corrosion. Do all the standard checks underneath and see which comes out best - pay particular attention to the pinch welds around the back jacking points, the inner arch lip, and the rear end of the sill section as it meets the inner wheel arch, and the rear park brake backing plates.
Thereafter, I'd favour the car that has the easier option for retrofit installation of a modern double DIN stereo (saving the original parts of course) - so that's likely the darker non-nav car.
Personally if I were looking for one of these right now I'd go with kayble's advice - be patient and go for one with the least underbody corrosion and with decent service history. I am thinking of getting my car professionally "rust proofed" as the underbody seems to be relatively clean at the moment.
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I would also check for signs of water ingress - usually caused by blocked drain tubes in the Sunroof . At some point mine had water in the driver's footwell area - also check the spare wheel area for any past / present "water logging" issues
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Thanks John, I requested the garage ( aka dealer ) to get straight to the point (i.e getting to the airbag sensor assembly and doing the appropriate checks on it ),however, they are saying that there are a lots of other things ( alternator charging circuit / bad ground / wiring faults etc ) that could be causing this and they have to rule out all these other things before attempting to access the airbag sensor assembly. The impression I got is that It could take them some time to get to the bottom of this. 😞
Not sure if this helps but apparently the car had an issue with water ingress ( which has been fixed )
It looks like I may have to search for an independent specialist in Lincolnshire / Nottinghamshire who is familiar with old(er) Lexus models for a second opinion . Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks Again
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I've inherited a car with Airbag light ( and now the eml light ) on so it is in a way a project . Because of my bad back 😩 I try not to do too much spannering.
Our local Dealer Quoted £ 800 to supply and fit a new radiator - . They said that as they do not change radiators too often - will have to look at the car before giving the final quote. Trying to find an independent garage who is willing to replace parts - without suggesting that the car is ancient and it needs to be replaced asap. 🙂
Best Wishes
Tom
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On 2/22/2019 at 7:08 PM, Texas said:
More info here and I did read somewhere else that as the assembly was located in the central consul area a spilt liquid from the cup holder was responsible for throwing up this fault!
Thanks Paul for the link.
I have had a chat with the dealership who did the initial diagnosis. They said they cannot recollect a single incident when the Airbag Sensor Assembly had to be replaced and are convinced that something else is at play here. They want to do further diagnosis so the car will be going back to them.
Thanks
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2 hours ago, Texas said:
Gotta fix the fault first,
By 'spiral cable' I think you'll find that is reference to the 'Clockspring' jumper cable that connects the steering column SRS circuit wiring to the airbag unit itself in the centre of the steering wheel, this cable allows the steering wheel to turn from lock to lock and maintain an electrical connection to the air bag unit. They do fail sometimes but you forum suggestion is a stab in the dark at best! And B1100 -Airbag Sensor Assembly Malfunction would not point me towards the clock Spring jumper cable!
That's the general idea. 🙂. I was referring to
Without testing the clockspring it would be impossible to rule that out. As you probably know it is one of many inputs to the Airbag sensor assembly. What else would the B1100 point you to ?
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Hello All,
The airbag light has come on and stays on - had the diagnostic read done and the code is B1100 - Airbag Sensor Assembly Malfunction. A read on the forums suggest that it could be "spiral cable" amongst other things that could be the cause of the problem. Dealer suggested I leave the car with them for a whole day so that the source of the fault can be accurately identified.
Any advice on how to reset this SRS light please ?
Thanks
Tom
Buying 2GS430 Advice
in Lexus GS 300 / Lexus GS 250 / Lexus GS 430 / Lexus 450h / Lexus GS 460 Club
Posted
According to a post here:
cars left to stand for 3 weeks or more "could" develop a sound.
Was the car left to stand for a while ?
Perhaps consider taking it to an independent Lexus specialist https://www.charleshurstgroup.co.uk/lexus/