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Howplum

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Posts posted by Howplum

  1. Broadly speaking a technician, as found in a main dealer, will replace rather than repair. Also, a main dealer will presumably replace like with like, i.e. steel. Hopefully an independent mechanic would suggest a repair for longer pipes, although it is often easier to replace shorter lengths, such as those at the rear. I have inserted short lengths of copper alloy pipe on several cars over the years and have never had any comments during the MoT test.

    • Like 1
  2. Get them repaired by a mechanic,  rather than a "technician". Have them use Kunifer copper alloy pipe, or similar, for longevity and to make the job a little easier. Generally the original steel pipes (used for cost reasons?) will corrode where they meet the flexible hose to each wheel. It is perfectly legal to use joints for the repair sections, as long they of the flange fitting type. It would probably be necessary to replace the associated flexible hose as well because the connection to the pipe will be damaged trying to get it apart.

    • Like 3
  3. If you sold it would you replace it with something similar? In other words, it might be more cost effective to have it repaired, especially as values seem to be rising, than to buy a replacement.

    It is quite an alarming list for a low mileage car, but, as has been mentioned already, the most serious (and expensive) issues are the corrosion and the engine oil leak. From the cars currently being advertised I would guess that the value, once repaired, would be over £5,000, assuming the bodywork and interior need no work.

    If it's a "hobby car" and you don't intend to replace it then perhaps just cut your losses and sell it for spares or repair. Apparently the engines are becoming popular for those who want to convert to V8 power, presumably having supplanted the trusty Rover/Buick V8. 

     

    • Like 1
  4. I've just had a message from Amayama saying the exterior handle assembly is out of stock.  Surprise, surprise! 

    Steve, all I actually need is the plastic retaining clip in the exterior handle assembly that retains the operating rod connected to the door lock, although I am happy to buy the complete handle assembly,  if that's easier. Perhaps you can send me a private message. Thanks. 

  5. I'm now in the process of putting the car back together but find that a small bush/grommet on the driver's door handle has gone missing. The rod from the door lock mechanism fits into it and is not available separately from Lexus. The good news is that new door handle assemblies appear to be available from Amayama at £44.46 plus postage etc. However, if anyone reading this has a spare driver's door handle assembly lying around then please contact me. I have effected a temporary fix, but I don't know how long it will last. The part number is 69210-50010.

    • Like 1
  6. I'm now in the process of putting the car back together but find that a small bush/grommet on the driver's door handle has gone missing. The rod from the door lock mechanism fits into it and is not available separately from Lexus. The good news is that new door handle assemblies appear to be available from Amayama at £44.46 plus postage etc. However, if anyone reading this has a spare driver's door handle assembly lying around then please contact me. I have effected a temporary fix, but I don't know how long it will last. The part number is 69210-50010.

  7. Hi Kieran. Yes, unfortunately I have already refitted the door trim panels. However, I found this, which might help:

    https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/toyota/lexus-ls-42404/ucf20-55848/ucf20r-aepgkw-937332/side-moulding-18041008

    There are two types, although I must say the clips used are unlike any I have seen before because they are rectangular and fit into correspondingly shaped slots in the trim. Luckily mine were all reusable, so you might also be lucky.

    • Thanks 1
  8. As far as the lower suspension arms (front or rear?) are concerned, Lexus will probably only sell a complete arm. However, assuming the bushes are the issue,  which is usual,  aftermarket ones are available in either rubber or polyurethane. 

    The brake pipes can be fairly easily replaced, if short, or repaired by inserting a section of copper and nickel, using the correct joint with flares (NOT olives!) on longer pipes. They usually rust where they connect to the flexible pipes and/or behind the supporting clips, which is usually hidden.

  9. Well, the car is back from the paintshop, and in the picture looks nice and shiny, although it really needs flatting to make it look its best.

    20231027_152852.thumb.jpg.b02b54cfc0243c2a6e881859a1a55574.jpg

    However, there is a problem in some areas which will need rectifying.

    20231027_153027.thumb.jpg.cd35d88db6b9cbad6aa58d996c73653f.jpg

    20231027_152951.thumb.jpg.ec5ffa008ae3c76320a4ea9d44e88a19.jpg

    The probable cause is silicon contamination, so more sanding and spraying required. Overall though I am happy with the result and I'm sure had I sprayed it myself more remedial work would have been required. I now have to leave the paint a few days to fully cure before sanding and polishing. Meanwhile I will start refitting some of the trim.

    • Like 2
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