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Howplum last won the day on January 7

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About Howplum

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    Lexus Enthusiast

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  1. Yesterday I dismantled the both the spare (incorrect) cluster and the original so that I could swap over the fuel and temperature gauges, which are the same on both clusters. I had limited success, in that I had indeed accidentally damaged the temperature gauge needle when I dismantled the original cluster before, so installing the replacement restored that function. The damaged part is the very delicate coiled copper wire on the upper part of the spindle, above the plastic disc: Unfortunately the fuel gauge still registers empty on starting from cold, but performs normally onc
  2. This isn't a recommendation, but I noticed there is a Toyota/Lexus specialist here in Bletchley.
  3. Yes, they're the ones, although there are four altogether, so that's how the knock effect comes into play.
  4. On the rear of mine the dust covers for the shock absorbers have started to disintegrate. The trouble is that they are part of the moulding that fits between the shock absorber and the body. Lexus calls them isolators. However, I did read somewhere on this forum that dust covers from elsewhere could be adapted to fit.
  5. Does this help? "In its standard, original trim with 10.0:1 compression, power output is 191 kW (256 hp; 260 PS), torque of 353 N⋅m (260 lb⋅ft).[2] The engine was slightly revised in 1995 with lighter connecting rods and pistons and an increased compression ratio to 10.4:1 resulting in peak power of 195 kW (261 hp; 265 PS) at 5,400 rpm and torque of 365 N⋅m (269 lb⋅ft) at 4,400 rpm. In 1997, Toyota's VVT-i variable valve timing technology was introduced along with a further compression ratio increase to 10.5:1,[2] bumping power and torque to 216 kW (290 hp; 294 PS) at 5,900 rpm
  6. I have used BBA-Reman before, when they rebuilt the throttle body of my W124 Mercedes, and am perfectly happy with their work.
  7. I haven't been able to do any component testing yet, but did make some enquiries about having the cluster professionally rebuilt, and of those that replied BBA-Reman were the most competitive at £170, with a "Lifetime" guarantee. I have also been trying to track down a used replacement and Jap Parts have one is stock, tested, for £300, so if push comes to shove I'll know which one to choose.
  8. A few things to keep you busy in the warmer weather then! It seems there is no easy answer to resolving the surface rust on the rear subframe though. I'm tempted to take mine off the car, dismantle it, have it media blasted and paint it with POR15 or similar, replacing as many bushes as I can at the same time. De-rusting it in situ looks a bit tricky, although probably quicker, and still achieves the same objective of preventing a further deterioration.
  9. I suspect almost any car over a certain age will have electrical gremlins, which is why forums such as this, and enthusiasts in general, help keep our cars on the road, despite the lack of support from most manufacturers. At least Lexus didn't use bio-degradable wiring for the engine harness, which is what Mercedes-Benz did in the 1990s.
  10. I'm assuming the coolant sensor, of which there appears to be only one, sends a signal to the instrument cluster, either separately or via the ECU. As far as I am aware I have no running issues, which seems to be a symptom of a failing sensor.
  11. Thank you Steve and George for your replies. As far as the fuel gauge is concerned I am assuming, possibly incorrectly, that the sender is OK since the it works fine once the car has been running for a little while, even just on a local trip to the shop. Nevertheless, I will test it as suggested. On the other hand, the temperature gauge is consistently misreading, so it might well be that the sender is faulty. I see from the wiring diagram there are two wires, brown and red/blue. I have just watched a video testing a sensor in situ with a multimeter which looks straightforward enoug
  12. The fuel gauge always shows empty with the low fuel warning light showing on the first start of the day, although on a subsequent starts it usually shows the correct level, with no warning light. However, I did notice last year that on a longish journey the needle would slowly drag itself to the correct position, but that could take anywhere between 30 minutes to an hour. The temperature gauge only ever moves a few millimetres from it rest position, not even reaching the lowest mark. However, I did dismantle the entire cluster last year in an attempt to sort out some non-functioning light
  13. Well, cleaning up the rear of the PCB made it look better, but unfortunately didn't cure the problems, so I now throw myself at the mercy of any electronic experts who might be reading this. I did speak to BBA-Reman this morning, who said a repair would cost in the region of £175, which I'm a bit reluctant to shell out for at the moment.
  14. Whilst there is nothing obviously wrong on the side with the larger components on it, the other side is a different story, which is no doubt a result of the historic damp issues. All of the solder joints are suffering from surface corrosion, which hopefully will clean off with contact cleaner. However, in the following picture the corrosion on the solder joint to the left of C126, which is the positive connection to capacitor C132 on the other side, appears to be spreading, potentially onto part of the circuit it shouldn't. Here's another picture showing corrosion on the many smalle
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