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Howplum last won the day on March 28

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  1. Did you consider used ones? There are a few LS400s being dismantled on eBay and tutorials on YouTube. It's a fairly easy and quick job, so even engaging a professional to do the job should be cheaper, I imagine.
  2. Mine has a grey interior, which the handbook calls Westminster Grey. However, that's not much help because if you need to renovate certain areas it would be best, in my opinion, to get some dye mixed to match the original colour. I am just starting the process of renovating my interior, which has sun damage, water damage, mould marks and cracking, but hopefully all treatable, to a greater or lesser degree. I had some "Touch Up Dye" mixed by this company: I sent them a cover from one of the rear head rests and asked them to match it from the underneath, where the sun hasn't got to it, and the match appears to be good. I noticed the dye is actually a Gliptone product. You will need a leather cleaner and some protection cream, so perhaps speak to them on 01244 888658. I have successfully used similar products from Nuera Products Ltd, but they closed at the moment. On the other hand, if your seats are just grubby, then @ColinBarber's suggestion is the one to follow.
  3. Maybe this will help:
  4. Steve, If all else fails you could try this company: Tel. 01244 888658 They do a colour matching service, so I sent them the cover from a rear headrest asking them to make some renovation cream/dye to match the underneath. It took 2 or 3 weeks to arrive, but I tried it this afternoon and the rear headrests do look very much better, the dye having got rid of the sun bleaching with one application. The colour match is spot on as well. It cost me £42.70 for 500ml, which hopefully should be more than enough to do all the seats, but they also do 250ml. The label says Scuff Master Leather Touch-up Dye and is actually produced by Gliptone, an American company. I might be a bit late with my suggestion, but I wanted to try it first. I will post pictures in my topic once I'm a bit further forward.
  5. If you follow the instructions then, as @whiteman says, the results should be good. I bought a similar kit, albeit from another supplier, when I restored a Mercedes-Benz 420SEC 3 years ago, and below are the before and after shots. I used the supplied filler paste on the hole in the armrest and the renovation cream was mixed by the supplier to match the correct shade. It's a very rewarding job, but don't rush it. Good luck!
  6. This afternoon I removed the lower front bumper corner trims which had been badly damaged over the past 24 years. The fixings certainly didn't want to give up without a fight, so in the end I had to cut through a couple of them. I don't think their removal makes a significant difference to the look of the car, so on balance I think I'll live without them. New ones are no longer available, and no doubt used ones are likely to be pretty ropey.
  7. At last I have been able to replace the damaged connector for the instrument cluster. The used replacement arrived on Friday so I spent a couple of hours or so fitting two multi-pin connectors: The bits of cardboard were to keep the wires in the correct order, which made life easier. I am now pleased to report that all the warning lights now work, thanks to Steve's expert attention. I successfully repaired the small piece of cladding, but disappointingly the shade is slightly darker, although according to all the sources I found the paint code is UCA31, which is what I ordered. The paint supplier I used has a spectograph, so when circumstances allow I will take a sample trim to them for a better match, although potentially I might end up repainting all the lower cladding. This is exactly how fairly small jobs can escalate, as I'm sure many of you know.
  8. Whilst waiting for my electrical bits and pieces to turn up I thought I would replace the nearside door mirror because the heating element was showing through in the bottom left corner: I had managed to source a good used one on eBay which was even in the correct colour, although I sprayed it anyway because there were quite a few scratches. Having read up the process on the internet it all went according to plan, in that nothing broke and everything looks undisturbed after reassembly. In all it took less than an hour to do the job. I did discover that the internal door frame trim has to come off before the door card can be lifted, but this just unclips, although there are two types of clips. Two of these on the top frame: And two of these on the rear frame: Once the door card is off (not forgetting to disconnect the puddle light!) this is what there is: Removing the mirror is straightforward, which I am finding is quite common on a Lexus, although I discovered after I had struggled to separate the connector that it helpfully slides upwards off the mounting bracket, which makes life easier. I also took the small lower cladding panel off that sits in front of the rear wheel. It had been damaged and I was curious to see how it was attached, other than by the two screws on the return flange. There is clip at the bottom edge and a couple of dabs of sealant/adhesive, although the top edge sits under the stainless steel trim at the top. The stainless steel trim is just held on by a clip which I squeezed slightly with pliers and the trim came away - all very easy. The plastic cladding has quite a deep gouge in it, so I will repair that shortly. It's so much easier doing it off the car.
  9. Yes, Stuart, I shall leave the filter well alone now.
  10. Re. the damaged connector, apparently Lexus still do the housing, so I have ordered one of those. I am struggling to remove the teminals from the existing connector housing using my homemade tool, which is a modified jewellers screwdriver. One option is to carefully cut them out with a small hacksaw and insert them into the new housing. Although Lexus can supply the repair terminals, as they call them, they are already fitted with a short lead and are around £6 each! However, I have found these on eBay: Although I found a used replacement connector on eBay, which might involve splicing 19 wires, I might get some of the above terminals because some of the terminals will not be usable, so I can cut the relevant wires off the damaged connector, crimp on the new terminals and fit then into the new housing. This is starting to get an expensive lesson, but hey ho, you're never too old to learn!
  11. Hi Stuart, They were for the differential, although they might be the same, I don't know. I got them from Lexus Parts Direct and they are both listed on their website. They weren't any more expensive than those on eBay, although there is a delivery charge. Oddly, the drain plug is cheaper, even though it includes a magnet! I must say I find Daniel Walker at Lexus Part Direct, who are based in Swindon, extremely helpful. His email address is
  12. I have managed to track down the technical document created by Toyota entitled "Terminal and Connector Repair - Terminal Replacement": I will add a How to Guide, once I've tried it out. Interestingly, Toyota recommend a simple crimped connection for wire repairs, which should then be wrapped in silicon tape, to prevent moisture ingress. I am now awaiting the replacement connector from the eBay seller.