RRKiller

Hi Peter, thanks for your reply!

The C1725 are mounted correctly. I was very precise with that. How many times do they twist do you think when the sport mode is active? I talked to an air strut specialist and he thinks its maximum half of a turn and not more... I did some research on that because the car is harsh and that could be because of the dampening and I thought the problem could be over there....

Ill check the arms asap! 

Since the fist day I own this car I see strange behaviour. When I come home and I let the car idle for a few seconds the car lift itself on the driver side and lower itself on the passenger side (front and rear).

I unbolted the rear sensors (which are both tuned in the mostly down position) and bolted them back onto the car on the very exact spot and now my car is raised on both sides in the rear for a minimum of 5mm. And exactly the same on both sides... I absolutely mounted those sensors back at exact the same point on the car. Since I have coated parts in black I can see the exact stamp where they use to be. 

On 5/17/2014 at 8:47 PM, Titch LS said:

Neil, Ditto the gearbox fluid change. Make sure they use ONLY toyota type IV fluid. Nothing else.

Thats not correct. You should use WS for the 6 gear models... 

36 minutes ago, steve2006 said:

What was the original fault before you replaced the air struts, the same as you have now or something different and how did you diagnose it was the struts initially?

Toyota Techstream is the standard diagnostic system which may allow live testing of the suspect valves.

Even given what you have already spent on struts a coilover replacement kit may still work out the cheaper option as many members have already done.

 

 

I accidentely deleted the fault the first time and it never came back. With the IT2 tester I cant check the history of faults... I was hoping with deleting the fault the car would drive perfect again.... Most stupid mistake I could make.... 

Anyway. Those other errors came back with the valve... I just dont know what exact valve because there are 2 of them... I have techstream on a disk. I am going to try to  hook up my laptop and test it myself. 

1 hour ago, Tulpen said:

I don't know much about the 430 but, on my 460, I can get those symptoms if I select the suspension to 'HEIGHT HIGH' and 'SPORT'. It takes a few seconds for the compressor to kick in which could be the reason you get a few metres of normal driving.

This wouldn't show up on your meter as a fault, because it isn't.......it is a normal function of the car. Now, if this is happening because you haven't selected anything, you do have a problem.

There is an old engineering saying: If things don't go back to normal after you've done some work, then you and the work are the problem. It could be that there was an error made when the struts were changed.

Best of luck.

The problem was already there before I changed the struts 😞

I like the saying though! 

I was planning to buy an 460 2007 next to the 430 but after reading about brake actuators failing, steering racks (5000+ euro) failing, and suspension bushings failing I got scarred. There are even stories about dangerous driving situations with braking and steering and thats scares me even more. 

On 4/10/2021 at 7:42 PM, Brik said:

Yep, and today after closer inspection I have found this part to be leaking from the plastic housing, caused by it's metal bracket corroding.

 

The shock is a sealed unit filled with oil, there maybe some electrical magic added to adjust the firmness.

The 'spring' is the airbag which is controlled by the valves I linked to above, they are mounted externally and adjust the amount of pressure in each bag accordingly.

Can you please tell me more about the leaking from the pastic housing? I may have the same part broken but I am not sure. 

On 12/17/2019 at 12:11 AM, John N said:

 

When I was looking for a replacement for my first LS430 radiator, I found there were two versions of the radiator available from Lexus.

The spares manager at Lexus didn't know the difference between them!

What I found was that on my radiator there is a connection for a small bleed tube from the top of the radiator to the water reservoir, this make the radiator "self bleeding". If you take the air intake box off the top of the radiator you can see it clearly on the same side as the water reservoir.

On the other version of the radiator this bleed connection is missing. (This is the cheaper version of the 2 radiators available from Lexus, which I bought first, and then had to send back because of the missing connection!) 

I think there was a version of the car made with a non-pressurised cooling system, but the version sold in this country used a pressurised system and the self bleeding radiator.

First check the top of your radiator to see if it has a bleed tube connection, and if you buy a replacement on-line check the picture or drawing of the radiator to make sure it comes on the radiator you buy.

John N

 

 

 

I think I have bought that radiator. Mine has the connection on the other side. I need to make the tube a bit longer. My Lexus has the seperate expension tank. In the US they dont have that but thats no problem. The only difference is that little hose and there is also an extra filler cap on my radiator since the models in the us dont have that expension tank where the normal filler cap is located. 

Hey guys,

I am really happy with my LS430 but there is a really big problem what keeps me from driving the car for more then 6 months now.

When I start the car, the first few meters or sometimes hundreds of meters its driving fine but then the comfort is gone and its driving horribly harsh. The car lift itself 1.5 cm all around as well. When I shut the car off it resets itself and mostly it will drive fine again the first few meters. 

I have bought 4 new original air struts at the dealer (5000+ euro). I am sure the problem isnt in there. 

I also took the little arm of the hight sensors and I twisted them all up and down and I saw in my IT2 tester that the value went up and down like they suppose to do. 

There are no errors or DTC's. The only thing I found was one "C1752 continuous current to exhaust solenoid" and C1725 Damping force control actuator FR. I must confess that I got those errors after changing the front air struts so I am not sure if this has anything to do with it.

The only part I havent checked is that exhaust solenoid. I have found out that there are 2 of them. One under the car near the differential for the rear wheels and one for the front wheels and its located near the compressor at the front right wheel. Since they are 500 euro's each I really dont want to change them just by guessing. Its just to expensive to play around with such numbers and I am not even sure if this will solve the problem. 

I really hope someone over here can help me out since I have a deadline soon and I really need that car. 

Thanks in advance for your help and thoughts on this. 

On 11/26/2019 at 8:22 PM, The-Acre said:

The ride is just the same as the original set up, maybe slightly better.  Arnott air struts seem to have generally good reviews.  Apparently they make refurbished units or brand new, so I went for new. 

Ok and what do you mean with better? More comfort? Better handling? More stiffness? I am always in pursuit of comfort. 

Thanks for all your comments and information gentlemen. 

This is all very helpful. And @lex - eleven Showing a picture is always interesting to look at. Even for some idea's how to mount the cooler if I will purchase one. 

Would you like to share what you have paid for your new radiators? 

I'm really curious about the comfort and handling comparing to the originals.

A wile ago I did some research and these aftermarkets were only available for the fronts and not for the rear but you seem to have a complete set. 

I went for the original ones and payed about 1200 euro's each and decided to fix the other side as well for equal damping quality's... Quite expensieve but its such an important part.....

Hello Lexus friends, 

I'm new here and I'll make a proper introduction later on because I am full of love with the very best brand in the world.

I have read many topics on the tranny cooler problem design flaw but I still have some questions and I cant find the answer. Hoping you gentlemen could help me out.  

- Can I get rid of the (future) problem by just mounting a good quality trannycooler like Mocal or another brand? 

- If I mount this, do I use the original lines onto the new cooler or is it smarter to get rid of all the lines and renew everything. Every unesseserely connection is a future risk in my opinion. 

- Can somebody please show me with a picture what lines I should use to mount on the future tranny cooler. 

- Somewhere on this forum I found someone saying that the original cooler is located into the radiator itself. Do I need to shut off those insert lines into the radiator?

- Do I really need to mount a new radiator when I also mounted a new tranny cooler or can I be sure with just a tranny cooler? I want everything to be 100% safe for the future and I think Ill keep this car forever. 

- What size cooler would be the best? 

- Is it smart to take a thermostatic cooler?

- Do I directly need to fill up the transmission fluid and how can I do that? Or should I fill up the cooler before mounting everything together? Sounds attractive but it's not really precise. Another problem is that there is no dipstick with these type of transmissions.... Very scary. 

- Mounting this cooler; Solid or in rubbers? 

- Is it correct that the size of the ports should be for 10mm hoses? 

After almost 2 years of thinking and googling I thought I should go for it now so thats the reason of this topic. 

Many thanks for your help and info! 

Hello Lexus friends, 

I'm new here and I'll make a proper introduction later on because I am full of love with the very best brand in the world.

I have read many topics on the tranny cooler problem design flaw but I still have some questions and I cant find the answer. Hoping you gentlemen could help me out.  

- Can I get rid of the (future) problem by just mounting a good quality trannycooler like Mocal or another brand? 

- If I mount this, do I use the original lines onto the new cooler or is it smarter to get rid of all the lines and renew everything. Every unesseserely connection is a future risk in my opinion. 

- Can somebody please show me with a picture what lines I should use to mount on the future tranny cooler. 

- Somewhere on this forum I found someone saying that the original cooler is located into the radiator itself. Do I need to shut off those insert lines into the radiator?

- Do I really need to mount a new radiator when I also mounted a new tranny cooler or can I be sure with just a tranny cooler? I want everything to be 100% safe for the future and I think Ill keep this car forever. 

- What size cooler would be the best? 

- Is it smart to take a thermostatic cooler?

- Do I directly need to fill up the transmission fluid and how can I do that? Or should I fill up the cooler before mounting everything together? Sounds attractive but it's not really precise. Another problem is that there is no dipstick with these type of transmissions.... Very scary. 

- Mounting this cooler; Solid or in rubbers? 

- Is it correct that the size of the ports should be for 10mm hoses? 

After almost 2 years of thinking and googling I thought I should go for it now so thats the reason of this topic. 

Many thanks for your help and info!