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Tomtit

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Posts posted by Tomtit

  1. I converted from air to factory spec conventional springs and shock absorbers. Replacing just one air strut would have cost more than the value of the car. There was also the possibility of other air components failing in the future. I used a mix of Toyota and KYB parts so that my insurers did not view it as a modification.

    I am happy with the ride; it is much more comfortable than my SC430 and my wife's RX300. The new parts will probably last the life of the car.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  2. On 3/14/2024 at 5:52 PM, Th3WhitePearl said:

    Long story not so short. 

    Toyota Celsior 2002 5 speed 

    I got the car new years eve. 

    It slipped between 2nd and 3rd gear. 

    I could live with it but best not to,

    Sometimes it didn't like to engage reverse, like it goes into reverse but doesn't move instantly. 

    Asked my local garage to check / top up ATF if needed 

     

    Did this no change if anything the reverse bit got worse. 

     

    Shortcut thought just change the box over,

    Done that and was great for 1 whole day. 

     

    Now it drops in and out of 1st gear whilst sitting in traffic. Into neutral it feels like. Then reverse is hit and miss. 

     

    Confusingly seems to be better / fixed when warmed up fully. 

     

    Car is off the road. Just had 9 new LTRs of fluid and strainer fitted and filled etc. 

     

    Other than this new but used box being faulty could it be something else? 

     

    I thought the garage may have messed up the fluid etc. But now seen the invoices it was T-IV like it should be. 

     

    Any suggestions? 

     

    Otherwise I'll end up stripping the poor thing 😔

     

     

    20240220_170947.jpg

    Has it left a fault code ?

  3. On 2/20/2024 at 9:44 AM, BigBoomer said:

    Not likely that the horn switch is the problem.
    Far more likely that the clock spring is the cause of the problem as they are a common point of failure for all the electrical stuff built into the steering wheel.

     

    For the sake of £24 I took a chance and ordered an aftermarket clock spring. I fitted it today and had to improvise as the centre hole was too small to fit over the steering column. I got there in the end and the horn is working again. Thank you for the information.

    • Like 2
  4. George and Steve.

    Thank you for the replies. I wanted to check the horn switch because the workshop manual said to do that. I found a good earth at plenty of positions on the steering column.

    I've had the car 4 years and there has never been a 10 amp fuse for the horn in the engine bay fusebox. The connection is there but the fuse is missing. The horn has still worked nevertheless, until now. The wiring diagram shows 2 horn circuits, one of which is for the security system and has a 7.5 amp fuse in the driver's footwell. This fuse is intact and there is power at the fuse connection.

    I also found power at the 10 amp point in the fusebox. With nothing to lose, I put a 10 amp fuse in and the horn worked. Perhaps only one of the horns is working, but at least the car is road legal again. I might investigate further if the rain stops. If I discover anything interesting I will post it.

    • Like 1
  5. The horns have stopped working. The fuses and relay are OK, and the horns work when given a 12 volt supply from the Battery. My next step is to check the horn switch under the steering wheel pad for continuity.

    I have a copy of the manual for the USA market, but the connector on my car (a British 52 plate LS430) is different and the wiring colours do not correspond. I have attached a copy of the manual page. The second image down shows the connector with 6 segments in a horizontal line. (It may be the first image ; the image is only showing half of the page on my draft post and it is upside down. I am not into this technology and would rather use a spanner). I have attached a photo of the connector on my car which is different. There are yellow, brown and black coverings going into the connector. If anyone has a copy of the British workshop manual showing how to check for continuity I would appreciate a look at the relevant page. Thank you.

    img062.jpg

    horn connector 001.JPG

  6. 10 hours ago, mickw322 said:

    What made you buy new driveshafts? Reluctor rings are about £10 each, not sure how much driveshafts are but I'm thinking expensive.

    I intend to keep the car and saw this as an investment. I may not be fit enough to crawl around under the car at a later date. With new driveshafts I also got the benefit of new bearings and rubber boots, so I won't have to worry about these wearing out. I think the driveshafts were about £280 including postage from Rockauto.

    • Like 1
  7. On 2/14/2024 at 3:14 PM, kayble said:

    Hello Steve,

    Yes, did reg/mot history check - it did seem to check out; but has since sold anyway. I didn't get the best of 'vibes' when I went to see it, but best of luck to whoever did buy it.

    If you had any doubts you were right not to go ahead. Another one will turn up. Bide your time and get the right car. I used to change my car every year until I got the LS430. Now I don't want to part with it.

  8. On 2/15/2024 at 11:02 AM, Bob King said:

    I would have a look at the ABS reluctor rings on the driveshafts before you buy any of the other parts .

    Can show up as a ABS pulsate from the pedal just before you stop .

    I used to have judder at the pedal when braking at low speeds. The castellations on the rear reluctor rings were badly worn. New driveshafts complete with reluctor rings solved it.

    • Like 1
  9. 2 hours ago, Russ59 said:

    Just had my VSV done, guy had never done one before and was up for a challenge.

    He rang me 4 hours later to say it was all done.

    He  used the process from Tomtit, 👍👍

    For info, the valve and 2 new inlet gaskets cost £200 from Lexus.

     

    IMG_2257.jpeg

    9afc967f-e840-4976-99cb-a0a5c6f57e88.jpeg

    I hope my post was useful. For anyone wishing to source their own parts, the VSV was £55.12 from Amayama (genuine Toyota part) and the gaskets were £33.14 for the pair from Rockauto.

    • Like 1
  10. 5 hours ago, Cotswold Pete said:

    I would also get a diamond stone - Stone - I use one of these to keep the blades sharp for a long time as even the fatmx will blunt.  Means less time swapping blades and good for the planet as not sending all those blades to landfill.

    Pete.

    Thank you. I have ordered one.

  11. 5 hours ago, NemesisUK said:

    Doesn't exist..

    I watched when our carpet was fitted and the guys put new blades in every 6 cuts or so. Well they had the snap off to renew type.

    No blade keeps it's edge in use, just depends what you are cutting as to how quickly it blunts.

    The knife is for general DIY use. Years ago these blades used to last a lot longer.

  12. 3 minutes ago, Mossypossy said:

    7 week trip to south of Spain. Inflator gunk already past sell by date!

    BUT, spare wheel takes up space.

    What would you do?

    One of my runflat tyres is currently losing pressure. I suppose this can happen at any time. Runflats are designed to run for about 100 miles after a puncture. If you are going to get a puncture it will happen at weekend when the repairers are closed. I would rather enjoy the drive in the knowledge that I had a useable spare wheel in the boot.

  13. On 11/3/2023 at 9:45 AM, The Lexus Enthusiast said:

    Hi guys,

    The hub cap came off my front driver's side wheel. Struggling to find a genuine replacement without spending £60 on Etsy for a set of four non genuine ones. I'd do that however want to hold off getting brand new sparkly ones until I have the wheels refurbished. 

    Anyone have just the one hub cap going spare?

    Cheers! 

    Earlier this year I bought one from amayama. Just over £28 including postage.

    • Like 1
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