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Paul-B

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Posts posted by Paul-B

  1. 1 hour ago, Bob99 said:

    I had the same problem with my hybrid battery a couple of years ago where the ecu had been cleared. Ran the car for 500 miles or so and hybrid check was back to normal as Colin said above. Not had a problem since.

    Was your ECU cleared by the service technician at the dealership/garage when you brought it into them or did this happen before you brought it to them to service?

    Reason I asks is I accept that my ECU may have been cleared when the Battery last died a few months ago, but I'd estimate I've done 2-3k KM since then so if I understand the issue correctly, this mileage should be enough to be able to perform the hybrid check.


    Also, the dealer mentioned low voltage was the reason they couldn't do the hybrid check, didn't mention anything about ECU being cleared 

  2. 9 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

    If the ECU has been cleared, purposely to remove error codes or by a flat battery, then they won't be able to complete a hybrid health check. They rely on the system doing an element of self-diagnosis which periodically takes place and will store pending or real error codes which the health check will read.

    The 600km distance is to ensure (as much as possible) that all conditions and tests would have been completed.

    This is the same for all Lexus and Toyota vehicles at any dealer - the software they use won't complete if the distance after reset isn't above the minimum limit.

    My 12v Battery has died a few times over the last year as my car has been in the garden a lot as Ive been WFH during Covid so this could make sense if it's the reason for it.

    The Battery hasn't died in a few months however and I've driven the car a fair bit the last few weeks since restrictions have lifted so I would have thought it would be OK for a system check at this stage

  3. 2 minutes ago, NemesisUK said:

    Seems very odd.

    If they mean the 12v battery was too low, they could simply connect a battery support pack as they would any car they need to leave on for a prolonged period.

    If they meant the hybrid battery then that could be brought up to near full charge within 5 miles driving.

    Guess they didn't want to do it there and then. Possibly equipment shortage or failure?

    I imagine they would do the check at alter stage, after you've driven it for a while, FOC?

    Yeah he said it would be FOC, however I WFH at the moment so not clocking a lot of miles so I cannot say how long it will take me to clock up 600km.

    The whole reason I brought my car to Lexus main dealer was for the Hybrid system check will maintains the Hybrid warranty.

    I have a friend who recently had similar issue with this same dealer, they said they couldn't test his hybrid system because the hybrid testing equipment was down. He complained to the manager and had his car collected from his house and hybrid system checked,  so I think you could be right that they just didn't want to do it there and then but that is outrageous if its true. 

  4. 11 minutes ago, Thackeray said:

    Unlike a conventional car with an alternator, driving the car makes no difference to the rate of charge of the 12v battery. As long as the car is in the Ready state, there's a feed of around 14.5v to the 12v battery from the high voltage battery whether the engine is running or not. If you don't feel like going for a drive, it will use less petrol just keeping the car stationary. The engine will start from time to time when the high voltage battery needs topping up.

    Great information, thanks!

  5. 5 hours ago, Brechin Slate said:

    Whilst waiting for your new battery it's worth knowing (if you don't already) that your car doesn't need a big battery to jump start from.  I discovered that my car starts just fine when jumped from my 12v lead acid golf cart battery.   It just needs enough power to wake everything up, no cranking amps needed.

    Yeah I jumped it yesterday off my partners car and started straight away. I don't a few km in it to give the Battery a chanrge and plan to start it every day until normal life resumes. 

  6. Thanks for the replies.

    I think a new Battery is probably the best way to go but I seem to have a problem finding one for my car.

    My car details are below so when I add in my registration on a number of websites including Halfords it states there are no batteries available for my car. But if I change the engine capacity rating to 2494 there ate lots of batteries available. 

    Am I to assume its OK to use batteries for the 2494 cc model?

     

    Make & Model - LEXUS IS 300H

    Description - 300 H SE 4DR AUTO 2.5

    Engine Capacity - 2493

  7. I have a 2014 IS300H which rarely leaves the driveway lately as I am working from home and we're still in lockdown.

    As a result the Battery goes flat after about 2 or 3 days when it's not in use.

    What is my best option?

    Could I buy this 12v charger from amazon and disconnect the Battery to recharge it or should I buy a new Battery?

    Cheers

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07T6GV32V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_BAVWC7JBXH242TGEX148

     

     

  8. I've a 2014 IS300H and it's been rarely used as I am working from home the last year.

    As a result of lack of use, the Battery dies and I need to jump start it. 

    I opened the boot and cover to the Battery compartment today and noticed a lot of condensation around the inside where the Battery is.

    I had a 2 litre bottle of water in the boot and that was Full of condensation also.

    Any idea what caused this and should I be concerned?

     

     

    20210227_113848.jpg

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    20210227_113832.jpg

  9. 46 minutes ago, Pompeyscouser said:

    I had this happen to me once when it was a very windy night and it was only in the morning I noticed my boot was unlocked and the wind was lifting it slight with, consequently, the alarm kept going off. I’m sure this might be a red herring but, check your boot!

    Checked the boot and it was closed tight. I don't know what caused it and what made it stop 😕

  10. Last night at about 3am my 2014 IS300H alarm went off for no reason and after about 10 seconds stopped by itself.

    I checked CCTV and there was no sign of anything suspicious so unsure what would have caused it and furthermore why the alarm stopped itself after a few seconds. 

    Done some research this morning but couldn't find an answer. 

    Any ideas what caused this to happen?

    • Like 1
  11. I've noticed a few times after driving the car to the shop and back a long stream of water or fluid of some description in the driveway and along the road from my house. It appears to be a good volume of water or liquid.  

    All levels under the hood look fine, I suspect its rain water build up of some kind but where would water be holding in that much of a volume and is it normal?

    Screenshot_20200625-161728_WhatsApp.jpg

  12. 22 minutes ago, TrevAB said:

    There’s a YouTube video of a guy from the States, he contacted Lexus, and spoke to the rep in Vietnamese, who was overly helpful, he was advised to try something at home. Disconnect the negative on the battery for 10 mins then just turn the car on but don’t start the engine. It will reinitialise. To his surprise it fixed it straight away. Seems far fetched but he had a number of followers.

     

    As I said in the first post, I was nearly sure the AC was working before the Battery went dead recently and needed to be charged so this could possibly make sense.


    What risks are there by disconnecting the negative from the Battery for 10 mins? 

    • Like 1
  13. So tried it again yesterday on a hot day and it doesn't work in Eco or Normal mode. 

    I thought I was getting some kind of cool(ish) air on the AC setting but I think I was getting the very same when the AC was off and just using the fan.

    I drove the car for 20 mins with the AC on to give it time to cool down but didnt work so I appear to have an issue. 

    Anything else I can try myself or is it a job for the garage?

  14. 1 hour ago, ColinBarber said:

    Normally if there is a major issue with the AC the light would flash or not come on, that and the fact that the air is being cooled at least a little implies it is just low on refrigerant but not low enough for the system to shutdown.

    Did you set the temp all the way end to low and allow enough time for the system to fully cool? I'm not aware of any initialisation that is required to make the system work after a disruption to the 12v supply.

    Also make sure it isn't in ECO mode.

    I actually was in Eco mode now that you say it. I just tried it there in normal mode and it does feel cooler but its night time now so could be just pulling in cool air from outside.

    I will try again tomorrow when its warm, hopefully that was it!!

    Never knew the AC wouldn't work in Eco Mode

     

    • Like 1
  15. Hi Folks,

    The air con has stopped working for me in my 2014 IS300H.

    The air con light comes on but no cold air from the vents, the air is cool but not cold.

    I had an issue last week where the Battery died and I needed to get it charged by the AA to get the car going again.

    I'm am 99% sure the air con was working before this, so not sure if its connected in any way?

    Any suggestions please?

  16. 2 hours ago, Jayw13702 said:


    It looks like that window needs resetting for one touch to work again.

    Ignition on, close the window by continually holding the button, when it reaches the top hold for a few more seconds, you may hear a quiet click.
    Then open the window fully using the same process again holding the it down for a few seconds, I generally count to 5.

    What you’ve done is “taught” the motor the operating perimeters, it should now work properly


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Worked a treat, thank you Sir! 

    • Like 1
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