Tom777

Heater core replacement is probably more than £700 - most likely £1000 just in man hours. £1200 in total with new heater core. SOFTWARE RULES THE WORLD. 

2 years I have studied my issue with not getting any heat on passenger side on a UK car. I am very proud to have solved the issue myself. Look what I created (fire: movie: Cast Away).

I had to put the Techstream software on it to perform: INITIALIZE SERVOMOTOR. This is a utility/function provided by the Toyota Techstream software - used as per MANUAL when Battery has been replaced or disconnected or servomotors (blend doors for USA) have been replaced. Imagine, some advice on the web is to disconnect Battery when you have this issue with not getting hot air on one side or uneven temperature between the two sides. The exact reason why you might get this issue in the first place. It’s bloody fixed-  It needed actual recalibration, not bleed air, not heater flush, not new actuators/servomotors, not new sensors, not advise “have you tried to adjust dual temperature settings”, lol… and this and that…. 

It was a calibration functionality for AirCon in Techstream that fixed it. I hope this helps anyone in the future who is about to give up life and their Lexus. Never give up on a Lexus!

NOTE. Not all toyotas and Lexus have this Techstream option: “Initialize Servomotor” option, but my IS250 2007 did. Do your own research regarding models. I spend £150 before I found the solution. Don’t spend £700 on a heater core replacement with your local mechanic before this step as per Lexus manual has been implemented. Your local mechanic might know nothing of it but your Lexus Dealer might do - hopefully. Initialize Servomotor

2 years I have studied my issue with not getting any heat on passenger side on a UK car. I am very proud to have solved the issue myself. Look what I created (fire: movie: Cast Away).

I had to put the Techstream software on it to perform: INITIALIZE SERVOMOTOR. This is a utility/function provided by the Toyota Techstream software - used as per MANUAL when Battery has been replaced or disconnected or servomotors (blend doors for USA) have been replaced. Imagine, some advice on the web is to disconnect Battery when you have this issue with not getting hot air on one side or uneven temperature between the two sides. The exact reason why you might get this issue in the first place. It’s bloody fixed-  It needed actual recalibration, not bleed air, not heater flush, not new actuators/servomotors, not new sensors, not advise “have you tried to adjust dual temperature settings”, lol… and this and that…. 

It was a calibration functionality for AirCon in Techstream that fixed it. I win and me and only me found the solution, not my local mechanic, not some redneck, but me.  I’m joking friends. But it’s fixed now, and I hope this helps anyone in the future who is about to give up life and their Lexus. Never give up on a Lexus!

NOTE. Not all toyotas and Lexus have this Techstream option: “Initialize Servomotor” option, but my IS250 2007 did. Do your own research regarding models. I spend £150 before I found the solution. Don’t spend £700 on a heater core replacement with your local mechanic before this step as per Lexus manual has been implemented. Your local mechanic might know nothing of it but your Lexus Dealer might do - hopefully. Initialize Servomotor

9 hours ago, Mr Vlad said:

Hi Tom. About a year or so ago I changed the gaitors on the front shockers. It needed removal of the shock absorber. I did it with the car off the ground. No issues with tracking etc etc after the job was done. 

Sorry only issue was the bolt in your 2nd photo was an utter mare to undo. Ended up taking my car to a local garage for them to undo for me with a blow torch.

Hi Mr Vlad,

I think the correct torque method is in place to tighten up the suspension at the correct angle to not overstretch the bushings and rubber in the “system” which can lead to premature “failure” of these linkage parts. At least that’s what I read in other places. The biggest pain for me was to undo bolt in first picture. I’m surprised yours was so tight as it should only be torqued at 87 N*m while the one in second picture is torqued at 157 N*m. But I am wondering if the only reason the manual says it should be raised with wheels off, is to actually being able to reach that lower shock bolt as it seems impossible with the wheels on and sitting on ground. The upper bolt can be torqued while sitting on ground as it is accessible above the wheel.  
Below the diagram with torque specs for IS250 in case anyone needs these reading this post.

1 hour ago, Shahpor said:

My understanding is that suspensions components, especially those with rubber in them, should be torqued with the car on the ground supporting its own weight.

Strangely, the repair manual says to settle the suspension and then raise the car up again before tightening the lower shock absorber bolt:

I suppose if you don't have a lift then it might be easier doing it this way.

Wow! Following a manual does add extra work. But I like to do things by the book. Thanks for sharing manual info on this. 
I will keep bolt relatively loose, set on wheels, bump it up and down, raise on jacks again, lift lower arm with jack and then torque to specs. 
thanks….

Hi Lexus guys,

I changed front shocks on my Lexus is250 2007. Please see 3 pictures with bolts and nuts in question. How should I torque these bolts and nuts. Keeping it on the jack stands or lowered to ground on all 4 wheels - car supporting its own weight ? I know the torque numbers but not if the torque specs should be applied while vehicle is on all 4 wheels. 
It’s 6 bolts and nuts in total I’m asking about. Any recommendations. 
thanks

Tom
 

No I have basically given up. I am still to take it to a specialist to flush the heater core as I live in flat and don’t have the equipment to give it a try myself. But a heater flush would probably also mean I have to get coolant refilled again - topped up to avoid air bubbles and what have you not. This issue is a real pain and a weakness in the IS250. My issue has nothing to do with the flaps and all that in the cabin in case anyone jumps on here and starts talking about that again. It’s very annoying. I am sure I bought the car with that fault. seller aware but did not mention as I only checked the air condition which works great but heating is the issue. Who would expect that. Always check the air condition and heating in detail when looking at an IS250. I will update if a flush helps but probably won’t do that before next year. I can still keep the car warm with just the right side heating but the problem is that front passenger gets cold with the cool air blowing etc so have to close the air outlets on left side completely during winter driving. It’s ****** ☹️

What’s the costs of changing valve seals fixed?

11 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

They shouldn't look like that but others have reported the same problem on aged IS250s. Apart from the 4th plug down there doesn't appear to be oil on the outside of the plug so it isn't the cam cover leaking oil in the plug wells, it is oil within the engine getting on the plugs - worn valve guide seals I'd guess. Do the engine use much oil between services?

Thanks Colin. No the car doesn’t use any oil at all -  less than what the Lexus manual suggests.  I will not worry about it for now
unless someone here thinks the alarm bells should be going 😱

Just now, Tom777 said:

 

Just now, Tom777 said:

Changed my spark plugs today. Oh my what a job if it’s your first time and based on Youtube videos only. But all done now without breaking anything. What is your take on the oil on spark plug

 

 

On 2/14/2022 at 11:54 PM, Tom777 said:

Yes that’s a great video too. That’s my engine. You learn something new every day. But my it’s shocking how difficult Lexus made it to change 6 spark plugs. It’s not impossible but still it’s fiddly like hell, like needing magnets and stuff. But this is really good video to have at least to remind me also how to put things back together. 

Changed my spark plugs today. Oh my what a job if it’s your first time and based on Youtube videos only. But all done now without breaking anything. What is your take on the oil on spark plug

15 minutes ago, Beamish said:

Apologies.  Video here:

 

 

Yes that’s a great video too. That’s my engine. You learn something new every day. But my it’s shocking how difficult Lexus made it to change 6 spark plugs. It’s not impossible but still it’s fiddly like hell, like needing magnets and stuff. But this is really good video to have at least to remind me also how to put things back together. 

12 minutes ago, Tom777 said:

What video. You mean the one I shared? Or did you forget to share the video you are referring to

Ok this is getting confusing. And here I thought I found a good video to follow but actually it seems to be a different setup compared to my engine. No fuel on mine etc and loads of bits and bobs that need to be dismantled not d in the American version. Im glad I’m starting to think about this now as I now have to think about it all over again and where to find a detailed guide on the change. 

What video. You mean the one I shared? Or did you forget to share the video you are referring to

11 minutes ago, Tom777 said:

This is the guide I would go by as it’s the most detailed one I have found, but maybe this is an American dude doing this on an American car: 

 

 

 

At duration 31.55 into video. Is this only applicable to American model. I don’t think so. That would be surprising. The fuel line must attach the same way to UK models, right. Anyway we can just go and have a look at our engines obviously - being careful not to break any of the engine covers 😂

This is the guide I would go by as it’s the most detailed one I have found, but maybe this is an American dude doing this on an American car: 

4 minutes ago, Beamish said:

 

The fuel line as featured on some of the US You Tube videos is not fitted to our cars so that is one thing less to worry about.

Dec.

Aha, that’s good to know. I need to have a look at that

1 hour ago, Beamish said:

 

If you are happy that the correct plugs are installed I would be inclined to leave well alone.

I would replace all the plugs at the same time if and when you decide to tackle the job. It is time consuming but not hugely difficult if you allow yourself plenty of time.

The new plugs should be fitted dry, the use of copper grease is not recommended. The torque setting is, from memory, 25Nm.

The original plugs fitted were Denso FK20HBR11 Iridium but they are not cheap  -  you should probably budget for £80-£100 for a full set of six.

Denso also now offer a cheaper TT plug for this engine but I do not have the reference.

Be very carefull where you source replacement sparkplugs as the internet is awash with counterfit items.

Dec.

Nice one Dec. Thanks for providing the torque setting also as its these kind of things that worry me when it comes to breaking things. I will get the original plugs from Lexusparts direct to be on the safe side, and yes if one gives oneself a lot of time it should be doable. Just worried that I could break something when taking things apart but it will hugely satisfying to do it myself obviously. Also I would add a new gasket if I was to go ahead with all 6, and a new washer for fuel line. Thanks 

That’s where I’m a little bit concerned as pulling out an old plug and then put back in. Do you know if I should make sure to add copper grease to the plug when reinstalling. I know that the correct plugs are installed  from the service history so no worries there. Another thought is to actually just change the 3 plugs that are easy accessible if I’m having a go at it anyway. They are cheap,  and I guess having 3 new plugs in there will do no harm.  

Yes the emissions seems to be a big deal for Lexus. But not for. I think I will leave them in for another 10.000 miles. Shouldn’t do any harm, and give me 2 years more before actually having to change them with my low mileage driving 

114.000

I planning on keeping the car for the rest of my days if possible. My fuel economy is great. I think I will leave them in for another 20.000 miles, and just do the good oil change for now. There are other change intervals that  might be more pressing than spark plug change - like changing diff oil, and top up / exchange transmission oil. I wouldnt hesitate to change spark plugs if it was just a quick job but as we IS250 owners know it’s a little bit of work/money to change these spark plugs. Just check Scotty. He knows what he is talking about. 

50 minutes ago, J Henderson said:

If the engine is running fine, don't worry about it.

I had mine replaced at 64K when the car was 9 years old. Car was running fine, but just wanted them changed for piece of mind.

Mechanic told me afterwards that they would've been good up to 100K.

 

👍🏻