Tom777

So the IS250 has spark plug change interval at 60.000 miles. I’m 6000 miles away from my next one. Does anyone know if it’s worth pulling just one of the easy accessible plugs and check it’s conditions to just get an idea about all the spark plugs’ overall condition? Is it possible to judge a spark plug by looks alone so as if it looks completely clean I shouldn’t worry too much about going 10000 miles over the interval or so. I know the generic answer is why not change them as recommended interval  etc but has anyone some alternative views on this. Some places people even say it’s a bit overkill to change at 60.000 and that Lexus changed that interval back in the days because of emissions etc. so in theory the spark plug could be good for another 30.000 miles. My IS250 had regular good oil changes so it’s been taken good care of in the past. Last spark plug change was at 60.000. So what about the looks of the the spark plugs. Maybe I should take one out and share a picture here. My engine is running very well - I’m actually worried about that it doesn’t eat any oil at all as it’s supposed to😂

1 minute ago, Tom777 said:

Does anyone know what this date is. Just received but I hope this is not the expiry date? see picture 

It’s the fill date so all good. “Has” to be used within 5 years from fill date 

Does anyone know what this date is. Just received but I hope this is not the expiry date? see picture 

RON95 E10 is a no go now for IS250 at least for my model 2007 according to “government  site” But it’s good to know that RON99 makes a difference to MPG even when offset by the higher price. 
Im wondering if I should go ahead with that carbon clean. I am still not sure if this service is actually a gimmick or something that will truly help the engine in the long run. It’s below £100 to get it done so might be worth it.  

47 minutes ago, Alfalfa said:

On pictures on the net the hose is missing and the connector is plugged.

I’m not sure if that is a good or bad thing, or what it’s for at all 😉

59 minutes ago, ColinBarber said:

Here is the flow diagram

Yes this also confirm what I read. The radiator has flow top down while heater has flow bottom up. Thanks. My culprit is not wrongly connected hoses. Just wanted to make sure.

I do not know, sorry 

3 minutes ago, Alfalfa said:

I notice that you have a hose or tube in your car that is missing in mine, do you know the purpose of that tube?

I do not know what that hose is, sorry

Nah. The matrix seems to have the same flow and design no mater if it’s LHD or RHD so that doesn’t seem to be the problem. Need to take the matrix for a flush to see if this will resolve the issue with low heat on passenger side. It’s not the actuators etc as this is all spinning nicely. 
very frustrating issue to have with a luxury brand car. 

Thanks looks like you are in a left hand drive car. I’m in a right hand drive car and not sure if the heater matrix is turned the same way in yours - meaning the blue line is running to the the bottom inlet of the matrix. 

1 hour ago, Alfalfa said:

Hi, some pictures of my car and 2 pictures of my oil catchcan installation.

Thanks looks like you are in a left hand drive car. I’m in a right hand drive car and not sure if the heater matrix is turned the same way in yours - meaning the blue line is running to the the bottom inlet of the matrix. 

As you can see on picture from Uk heater matrix the left inlet from engine bay runs into top of heater matrix and right side outlet in engine bay is from bottom of heater matrix. I’m wondering if it matters what way the flow goes. I could think that the top red hose from engine bay should run into left inlet to flow to top of heater matrix. And then the outlet from heater matrix should be the right outlet flowing into the blue lower hose back into engine. Not sure what the logic/physics should be for the flow. 

Hi All,

I’m looking for help from someone who can confirm that my hoses are connected correctly from engine bay to heater matrix. Please see picture for reference. This is a UK model Lexus Is250 2007.

I have issues with heat in cabin and want to rule out incorrect hose connections from previous ownership/services. If someone could compare against their own IS250 that would be great. Looking at the picture is it correct that the blue line lower hose from engine should be connected to the inlet on the left inlet passenger sid. So blue lower hose goes to left inlet and upper red hose goes to right side inlet ?

Best thing is if someone actually could check against their own car. I don’t need help with other things explaining my heat in cabin issue. I am aware of all the other things it could be but want to rule out this factor also. 
Im basically getting less heat on passenger side/nearly cold air while driver side is normal with heat.  Want to rule out incorrect hose connections. See picture.

thanks  

Yes I also thought they are split into discs. I guess I have to check my disc when I’m Germany sometime. The west disc should not cover Germany at all. That’s Central Europe, but with say nav I can route my way to Germany to a specific address which I do t understand if west doesn’t cover Germany. 

I’m looking to update my DVD maps. What I don’t understand is that when I check what maps I have which I know is Western Europe and UK off course included is that I can search for addresses in Germany and the Nordics. But I thought all of Europe maps would come on separate DVD’s. There is only room for one DVD map but I seems to also have Germany installed with Spain,  France and all that ? When searching online the DVD only comes as Western Europe where Germany is excluded like also the Nordic countries. But I seems to have all maps on my DVD. Is that possible or is it because the map allows me to search for destinations in e.g Germany but not able to route me once I get to Germany. I don’t really get it. Anyone with any experience with these maps for my model and if it actually is possible to have all of Europe included on one DVD which my system seems to have. The DVD info says WEST Europe but don’t understand then that Nordic and Germany is searchable. I also seems to be able to switch between all the country maps in my settings. So that I have to switch map when looking up addresses in Germany. It then finds me street names in Berlin as an example? 

1 hour ago, ColinBarber said:

The actuator under the glove box is for the recirculation, the air mix actuators are on the central heater matrix unit.

Thanks for some further guidance on this. I will google a bit more on that heater matrix location. 

Car: LEXUS IS250 2007

Issue: cold air on passenger side with both A/C on and off. At max temperature cold air passenger side and hot air driver side.

I checked the blend door actuator under the glove box and it’s moving freely when changing temperature on passenger side. 
Does anyone have any tips on what this could be? I disconnected Battery also and those kind of simple steps. 

The problem is that the cabin actually gets too cold but I’m surprised to see this happen with both air con on and off? 

47 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

It is nothing new for service centres to invent faults with cars expecting to profit from replacement.

Hard to see in video, but it seems the bushing is split on both sides or at least have some cracking (but it may be just dirt and grime cracking on surface and not rubber itself), sadly video becomes blurry when you point the camera there. In any case does not look like something critical or dangerous, probably the description of "slight movement" is correct thought - as you can see in the previous video they have quite a bit of movement even when bushes on the car are in very good order.

Just my opinion here, but I would say replacing it with OE bushings would be pointless, your bushings although seems like little bit cracking are not that bad. The only worthy upgrade would be poly bushings if you can find suitable replacement in UK.

Thanks for pointing this out. I see what is meant by the split now. I think the best thing is for me to get some sort of health check with Lexus themselves as I suspect there might be other things that need a fix. I will go hunting for poly bushing and make the upgrade - if actually needed. So at the moment it looks like I will get these bushings replaced, new brake pads and get the caliber greased. I hope that will keep my car fit for next MOT. 

1 minute ago, Tom777 said:Please see video. These things actually don’t look too bad I would say. I don’t see any splits on either side on the front of car. I know this is just a simple visual inspection but let me know if anyone has more insight from this video of my car. Also I would also like to know what you guys think about the rust level on my car. Does it look bad or is this expected with the age of car? 
thanks guys: 

I’m wondering if I’m actually looking at the right “thing”: BOTH FRONT LOWER ARM REAR BUSHES SPLIT AND HAS SLIGHT MOVEMENT

13 hours ago, Texas said:

Here’s what the little blighter looks like when doing it’s stuff!

 

Please see video. These things actually don’t look too bad I would say. I don’t see any splits on either side on the front of car. I know this is just a simple visual inspection but let me know if anyone has more insight from this video of my car. Also I would also like to know what you guys think about the rust level on my car. Does it look bad or is this expected with the age of car? 
thanks guys: 

5 minutes ago, Linas.P said:

Pretty terrible to watch... imagine how much geometry changes under cornering and braking. And this isn't even worn bushing...

Obviously, I guess this is more comfortable and you get less feedback from steering wheel, but for handling this is certainly one of the first things to change. And finally - imagine how it looks when bushings are worn - it must be wobbling all over the place. 

I will try and see if I can get a picture taken from under the car to get an idea how bad it is. I’m starting to think I need this fixed relatively quick and not let it stay as it for too long. But common sense really 

3 hours ago, Phil xxkr said:

I know it's stating the obvious but LOC gold members get up to 20% off labour and parts from some dealers, well worth the investment, I saved hundreds recently so make a few phone calls Tom👍

Great. I will look into that. Thanks 

9 hours ago, Texas said:

Here’s what the little blighter looks like when doing it’s stuff!

 

Brilliant video. Am I correct to assume that that my split bushes won’t pass next MOT or is this somehow related to the severity of the issue ? 

3 hours ago, Texas said:

Here’s a bush being changed on an ISF and I wouldn’t think the 250 is much/any different, looks like a bread and butter job for any garage, even Quick-Rip, but that should be a last resort! This is showing an ‘upgraded’ part being fitted but if you got the OEM parts then same operation.

 

3 hours ago, Texas said:

Here’s a bush being changed on an ISF and I wouldn’t think the 250 is much/any different, looks like a bread and butter job for any garage, even Quick-Rip, but that should be a last resort! This is showing an ‘upgraded’ part being fitted but if you got the OEM parts then same operation.

 

Just had another look at the video. How easy does that look. So surprised it can be done without even taking of the wheel. Great news. Take a YouTube video to the mechanic and sorted 😄