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Apologies, I attached the wrong images to the previous post - now correct

Okay I've cleaned the area up and had a closer look, and I find that one of the tiny wires that forms part of the overall batch of wires (harness?) is cut. Pics attached! Very shocking. A long distant mechanic friend reckons it's definitely a rat/mouse job. Apparently that yellow padding stuff smells of cheese lol. Do you reckon it's just a simple case of re-joining those 2 cut yellow wires with some crimping tool etc and duct tape? Or should I get this done by an authorised electrician seeing as we're dealing with the hybrid system of a powerful car? Thoughts welcome.

Okay I had a scour around the internet and there seems to be a lot of advice to check the harness cable to make sure rats haven't eaten it or something. But we don't have a rodent problem where we live, but I decided to lift up my bonnet and see what I can find, and I was alarmed to find that part of the interior 'roofing' has been violated - not sure how! And it happens to be right above the big orange electrical cables. I have attached the pics. So, the golden question is - could this be the culprit? Could a rupture in that black interior roofing lead to water ingress into the engine compartment - and if so, could that then cause a short circuit associated with the codes I'm getting? And if so yet, what would you advise? I've disconnected the 12V battery and pulled out the orange hybrid battery fuse. I appreciate your help and time!

Good day folks! It me again, after a year's worth of fault-free driving, with an all-new problem with my GS450h 😏 I was about to leave for a wedding today and decided to take my car to the car wash first... but as I left my driveway, it moved off in electric mode, and then the engine fired up.... or at least it tried to! The 'crank' failed and it went straight back into pure electric mode, and the screen now read, check hybrid system error, check vsc, check ecb - the standard failed hybrid system stuff, along with check engine light on. I did an about turn and just about managed to bring it back into my driveway. I disconnected the 12V battery, and then pulled out the orange hybrid battery fuse, and left these disconnected for about 5 minutes to clear the codes, and then try again. The same thing happened again. So I plugged in my laptop with techstream, and it yields the following 2 codes: P0A4C-513 Generator Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance P0A4D-255 Generator Position Sensor Circuit Low Any ideas what this could be? I took a lot of screenshots of techstream and can share them. I appreciate your help and time.

It's a good thread. I see some have removed their battery tray, and I may have to do the same as the battery I have is a bit too long to fit. Width is fine though. Unless I modify the tray.

Good news. I've installed the replacement fuse and my car is fully back in working order, thank God. I've tidied up the battery compartment, but still more to do before I properly start driving this car again (need to modify my battery tray to fit this battery). This has been a good thread and I thank everyone for their contributions. And if that fuse blows again, I'll look to update you here 😌. But I think, it will be okay now. Lesson: properly secure battery with brackets and apply all supplied covers.

Incidentally... Not the hazard lights. Hazard lights are sadly completely dead... Which seems like a safety issue.

This is for sure a case study for others to learn from!

Here's my thinking on that. There's an offshoot cable that goes it's own separate way to it's own mini set of 3 fuses... I think the interior lights likely come from that. I've attached a picture of this. In any case, the main 150A fuse is due here tomorrow or day after so let's see... hmmm.

Yes, it is as you described 🫢. My excuse is I'm a millennial 😅.

I'm gonna go with this as the cause. Replacement fuse on its way. And I'm going to sort out the mess that is my battery compartment 😬. Half thinking to order an extra fuse in case that wasn't the cause and it happens again 😅

It means rolling on the floor laughing 😁. I think the mechanic assumed I installed a battery with a higher than recommended Cold Crank Amperage.

Hi Sami. This is probably best explained with the image attached to this post. There are 3 other fuses that are still connected separately, so I'm guessing that's where the power to the interior lights goes. Hello KayCee. This all happened while I was driving. The electrics were fine for 6 months up to this point. 6 months ago I changed the battery as the original reached end of life, and I saw a debate on this forum about different batteries that can be used as the original is quite dear. I learnt that any can be used as long as the specs match... but that the capacity (Ah) can exceed the original spec. The original spec being 70Ah, I found one at 100Ah and went for that. This one: https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/yuasa/ybx5335/ Now because the battery is physically larger, I've had to remove the battery tray and just leave it loose. I've been meaning to modify the tray to make it fit and then put the covers on, but not got round to it. And so that leads me to the picture I've attached (presently showing the terminals disconnected). The bracket is loose... plus I've got tools lying around. Do you reckon while driving, stuff moved around and came into contact with the terminals and caused a short circuit - could that be a possibility?

Can't tell for sure, but my mechanic friend reckons it's most likely the non-standard 12V battery. It must have sent out power too intensely.

Found the culprit. The main 150A fuse is blown (see pic). I asked my mechanic friend about it, and I confessed to him.... the 12V battery is a generic battery. There was some discussion on a thread on this forum about what 12V batteries we can use as the OEM battery costs around £300. I can now say that it is £300 for a reason. A 12V battery on a hybrid is unlike a 12V battery on any other car, even if the specs match. So now I have to secure a new fuse, get a proper battery (£300 sadly), and sell this battery which is barely 6 months old and has a 5 year warranty.

I hear you and agree. I will be using wd-40 and trying over a day or two.

Okay I'll check that out. Actually this hybrid battery is almost new as the old one failed a health check while it was under warranty and so this new one was put in my Lexus about 3 years, 20,000 miles ago. There are about 3 or 4 fuses on the batter terminals, and seeing as that's all I have access to at this stage, I'll check those within a day and report back! Thanks for your reply.

Okay so I consulted a friend who has the exact same car as me (he loved mine so much he got one himself 😁), and he said that the manual lock at the driver door only works when you have battery power. He found this out the hard way when he left his lights on overnight. When RAC jumped his battery, only then he could get in. I trickle charged my 12v battery overnight and installed it, and .... nothing. The problem persists - I can't get in to my car. Of note is, that not even the small interior light in the boot works. But if I peak at my dashboard - I can see that the door open light is lit. And when I was last in my cabin after breakdown, the interior lights would work too. But if I flashed my fullbeams, the blue full beam symbol would flash, but not the fullbeam headlights in reality. So it's really bizarre - some electrics are working, and some aren't. With my battery being as new as it is, and me having trickle charged it to full, I no longer think that's the problem personally. So this is where I'm stuck 😕

It does turn just fine both ways about 70 degrees .. not quite 90. If in your knowledge it takes a 90 degree turn I could try pliers to turn the last 20 or so degrees.. hmmm 🤔

Okay so the good news is I've had it towed home. The bad news is/was that I had locked each door manually shut, thinking I could just get in using the physical key at the driver door. But, it doesn't unlock. Does anyone know if that locking mechanism only works if the battery and electrics are in order? I had to have it towed on skates as I couldn't put the transmission on neutral and disable the parking brake.

Hi. I'm stuck broken down and what happened was bizarre. I started my car after a gym session and noticed my reaction battery down to the last bar, which was unusual, but I thought nothing of it. A few miles later, the traction battery reaches more than 50% charge. However, a few miles later, as I'm driving, the entertainment screen starts to flicker, as do my headlights, and a few seconds later, my power steering cuts, then my engine dies as does the car. Can't even open the boot (had to get in using manual key). I thought maybe it's my 12v battery but that was recently replaced with a brand new yuasa one. And now I'm stuck here in the cold. Car is dead. But what's unusual is the door lights work, as does the doors open symbol. Interior lights work too. When I flash my full beam, the blue symbol lights up but in reality no light is emitted from headlamps. Any ideas? In the past when I would drain my 12v due to listening to radio on accessory mode, all I would have to do is leave the car off and after about 5 mins the traction battery would have topped up the 12v, and Id be able to start the car. But this time it's not happening.

Okay, I managed to do the job without techstream and have outlined steps here:

Good news... the method stated on page 32 of this slideshow worked for me: https://slideplayer.com/slide/14432904/?utm_source=LexusOwnersClubUK&utm_medium=ForumLinks It turns out that for the GS450h and LS600h, 3 terminals need to be jumped; 12, 13, and 4. Turn on car, shift to neutral, then shift between N and D constantly for about 1 second on each position for a total of at least 6 seconds, at which point you'll notice D's light on the dash staying on for 2 full seconds before disappearing. You are now in ATF temp check mode. Shift it to P, and pull out the jumps from the OBD. After a short while in addition to P being lit up, D will also light up - and that's your cue that the ATF is now at the correct temperature for you to open the overflow check plug and release the excess. Thank God it worked out. Car drives beautifully again and shifts between MGS1 and MGS2 flawlessly.

Thanks for this Colin, I'm keen try to it first thing tomorrow. But a question comes to mind, when the D light goes off after having been on for 2 seconds, and I then shift it into P... is there some way to tell that I'm now at the correct temperature? Perhaps P+D come on together for my Series 3 - I'll have a go and see.

Good day all. I've been trying to correctly change my Transmission fluid on said car (after repairing the bearings on the electric aux pump of the tx). I am stuck on the temperature check bit. Does anyone know how to properly do it? There's a techstream method (which I've tried and failed with due to communication errors between laptop and car), and there's a method involving jumping 2 terminals of the OBD port. I've researched the latter, and have gathered from the web that the method is (assumably) as follows: 1. Jump the 4 and 13 terminal on the OBD port 2. Switch car on. It will go into some sort of diagnostics mode. 3. Shift the transmission from P to S, then downshift to 1, then upshift all the way to 6, then shift to P, then D, then constantly shift from N to D holding each position for minimum 1.5 seconds for a total duration of minimum 6 seconds. 4. Remove the jump connection from the OBD. 5. Wait. Eventually both P and D on your dashboard should simultaneuously light up solid. That's when the temperature check is now complete, meaning the fluid is at the correct temperature for you to get beneath the car and open the overflow. Wait for the overflow to stop overflowing, close with new gasket. Job done. Have I made any mistake? I have tried the above but P+D lighting up together never happened... and I waiting 5 mins, and in that time the engine even cut out to denote battery charge cycle completion. Perhaps I'm not supposed to remove the jump at all until the very, very end?