T.F.S.

well done mate! not as hard as you first thought eh! regards, brian

yes, this concerns me aslo... if both cams jump it can affect compression but as i mentioned this should be in a uniform manner 8 bar is so low for a N/A engine..... i am hopeing that this is due to cam timing, if we are wrong it will be at least 6 bent valves and two very bent valves to get the belt off rotate engine till all of the lines match up (or in your case Am, as close as you can go) then try to get the front pulley off, car in gear, person on the brakes with screwdrivers through the brake vents to help (just use the csrewdrivers if there is nobody to help) it may not be easy to remove......some main crank bolts can be 200lbft followed by another 75 degrees of angle tighten, this means even with a three foot toruqe bar you will be farting like crazy! after that you take thre front pulley off but it may not want to leave home....you may need a puller (go to halfords or summat) but give it a few taps first, some do come off easier than others then you will see the whole belt...give it a good visual inspection looking for a tear, break, split in teeth etc, take pics! now ease the tensioner off, remove the one next to it too (the "idler) belt should now slip off remove the exhaust manifold and inlet manifold remove rocker cover now try to get a socket/allen key fitting to fit the head bolts if you have to remove the cams in order to reach the bolts thats no prob, just remove the nuts/bolts on "the caps" but in a uniform manner from the outside in you must be sure the cam lifts evenly or it can bend!!!!!, easy to get right....easy to get wrong!, it wont want to come up in a uniform manner as only some of the valves are pushing up against the cam (dependant on cam position) but if you do 1 turn on each nut/bolt from the outside in (first the two on cyl1 then cyl4, cyl2, cyl3, repeat, repeat, repeat) head bolts are the same thing, they will be tight so be careful to use the right tool that sits in there nice and make sure the bar you are using is held "square" as you turn...dont angle the tool in its seat (1/2 turn on first the two on cyl1 then cyl4, cyl2, cyl3, repeat, repeat, repeat) when thats done you can lift the head off ill be adding the head stripdown process to the skyline thread this weekend so check in if you want to read further http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40350 if i have any of that wrong please mention it as im not a tezza expert lol, never stripped one but have done so on many a simular engine regards, brian

hi guys the way im seeing this at the mo is that the engine has a substantial drop in compression on cylinder number 4 this is either a timing issue (the cam jumped) or its an indication that there is a breach in the cylinder....we presume the valves now if the cam is at blame for the drop in compression this would drop compression by the same amount on each cylinder because all of the cylinders are driven by the same cam, that cam must be at least two teeth out to drop compression but the others are ok in terms of compression what we have does not fit the story and i seriously suspect that it is indeed the valves that have kissed the piston and thus are leaking compression also the noise you describe upon cranking last night indicates that its the inlet valves leaking compression (hence the "pop" through the intake) please advise me if i have missed something in that diagnosis lol kind regards, brian

hi am glad the system is working right for you mate! before you go for the supercharger conversion try a 125bhp jet....i think it will change your mind as far as extra power goes!! its a pity the pulsoids could not be moved but im sure you will address this later on and you will notice the system will be less laggy and more responsive when WOT is applyed ;) have a chat with paul at www.twistedsanity.com for refills regards, brian

yep, that would be ideal! if you can get a bit of hose to go from your grill to the box then thats even better and we will have to make another hole for the air to exit the box we could get the lines to the injector down to only 2 or three inches like that, it will make a noticeable diffrence when you first apply WOT regards, brian

hi am those injector lines look even longer on the pic, if you can get hold of a small plastic box we can mount them nearer the inlet and rig up a cold air feed, it would make a diffrence! still cant see a air temp sensor on those pics, im sure it is further down the inlet tract and adjusting the fuel to the injectors when the nitrous comes on, we will have to move the air temp sensor to a position before the injector to get around this! regards, brian

hi am could you post a good clar image of your inlet manifold please? if anyone else has knowlege of this engine i am trying to locate the position of the air temp sensor as i believe this could be detecting lower air temp when on gas and increaseing the amount of fuel delivered by the injectors which is messing with my normal static teting ratio calculations regards, brian

no chance of that am im afraid it will have to be faster than it was sat night ;)

hi am that was the longest bloody install ive ever done!!! i didnt like the pulsoid location, i didnt like the fuel feed, i didnt like the micrswitch either! we havent had enough time testing the AFR either, i think tis will need another couple of hours fine tuning before we can say that this car is up to my standards the best from this car is still yet to come! regards, brian

hi mate have you got more underbonnet pics?

hi im doing a progressive nitrous install for one of your forum members and if possible id like to pick your brains for some infomation as i dont really like to turn up to a customers address without at least having some idea of the car im working on the car is a make: Toyota model: Altezza RS200 Year: 1999 and id like to know if the car has HT leads what is the standard plug heat range (NGK numbers if possible) what are the limitations of the standard fuel pump is the ignition coil pack or dizzy (question 2 would probably answer this anyway) has anyone fitted a system to one of these before?, how did you define the optimum injector position and what did the static test reveal on standard fuel pressure with what jets? i can find all this out myself on the day but as ive said if someone has been here before i might as well take advantage of the infomation, only a fool would not eh! regards, brian www.noswizard.com/bboard