thefrustratedbaron

Thanks BigBoomer I will try that. In the meantime I will use my hybrid method……keep on trickle charge until I require to use car, at least I will know the battery is fully charged before I set off. Hopefully electricity price cap reduction will keep costs lower😃

Big boomer and Ronnie Many thanks for your input. The auto electrician did exactly that and the “parked” mode reading was 50mA which he said was normal for a car/battery of this size, before this parked reading it measured 1.7A which made me think I had a drain. Both “experts” said there was no drain and car was tested with lights heater fan etc on and the reading was I think 14v which they said confirmed the alternator was working fine. Would taking out the 20A DC OUT fuse when car not used prevent a drain? As you both suggest the radio/CD/Amplifier may be the source of my problems. I know nothing of car electrics but if no joy removing fuses what is the function of relays, are they basically an on/off switch.? If amplifier is draining the battery wouldn’t that have shown up in the battery drain procedure stated by Big Boomer. The auto electrician said with the 50mA draw the battery in theory should run flat in approx 50 days if not used. Thanking you both for your help in this matter

I’ve just posted a similar problem regarding battery drain but RAC said no drain but battery totally flat after 2days . Cannot be much help but hope someone can resolve your issue

A quick update. After considering scrapping the car a friend researched the oracle (Google) and discovered that the working steering lock MOT requirement only applies to cars registered after 1st September 2001. The MOT tester was amazed and did not know that there was an exception, how many older cars have failed due to faulty steering lock?

Need help 2001 Lexus LS430 Brand new battery fully charged is totally flat after 2 days. Auto electrician said no drain on battery and alternator working normally. After another battery fail called RAC breakdown they ran several diagnostic checks and confirmed what the electrician had said. This is the third new battery in less than a month so not battery. Latest attempt was to fully charge battery 12.7v then removed the DC out fuse which apparently dealers do to preserve battery charge when transporting. 2 days later battery charge was 2v without DC out fuse, when fuse was replaced the battery charge was 12v. It may be a coincidence but this all started when the CD/Radio crackled loudly and the speakers packed up. Any thoughts to solve would be much appreciated

BigBoomer I agree but when driving the steering lock fuse is effectively out so hopefully shouldn't activate. As a work round i have a switch which replicates the fuse being in or out. With fuse in 'out' position i put ignition to ACC then put fuse in 'in' postion start car so engine is running then put fuse to 'out' position Engine can be turned off and as long as key not removed the engine will start as normal. I know a big pain....its either that or ££££££s. Come MOT time I think it's the scrappy unless a cheaper alternative can be found. The £££££s saved could be put towards the purchase of another LS hopefully a model with relatively low road tax

Malc FYI from the gov website on what is checked during an MOT. My local MOT tester said he was amazed it was part of the MOT....oh well, the Government knows best 2.19 Steering and suspension These will be inspected to check: their condition steering oil level they work correctly for inappropriate repairs or modification including corrosion to power steering pipes or hoses that the steering lock mechanism works properly The MILs or dashboard warning lights will also be checked for the electronic power steering and steering lock.

Hi I'm new to forum and need any advice going regarding my problem. 2001 LS430 167k Steering lock jams therefore unable to turn ignition key. Tried usual wiggling steering wheel etc etc. Eventually resolved thanks to RAC mechanic who kept tapping something until released (a bit like when starter motor plays up on a car) Took to main dealer who confirmed that a new steering lock actuator was required. Ok I thought, until they gave me price.....Part £1740 with labour £2400. For a car worth hundreds I think I would be mad to consider it. To overcome the problem i removed the fuse for the steering lock...smart hey...NO aparently it is also linked to the immobilisation system which cuts off the fuel to the fuel pump. I did find a work round which stops the actuator from locking the steering. Here's the killer...the steering lock is part of the MOT and must be in working order. Even MOT tester said its not a safety thing and didnt know why it is in test. The USA have a lot of these problems with Lexus and Toyota and their solution is to immobilise the actuator pin which cannot be done in UK because of MOT requirements. Any solutions apart from scrap car or paying £££££££s. Would dismantling and using some kind of PTFE lubricant work? Any ideas Many thanks